Evo sliders and pinch seams

TANK

New member
I just recently had a friend help me to get my evo sliders welded on. I now realize that I should have read and researched a bit more before purchasing these and welding them up.

First off, the long arm kit I have utilizes brackets for the rears on the frame rails. I now know I could have ordered direct from Evo and got sliders with the third arm sent un-welded from the body of the slider so I could position them to fit. I also now know that I should have read the install directions closer as I missed the part about needing a half inch gap between the slider and pinch seam.


Mistakes were made and the pinch seam basically rests right against the sliders. I realized my error the second I went driving down the road and could feel every bump in the road. Obviously I need to correct this, so short of going through the pain in the ass of removing the sliders, I was wondering if it's possible to just notch out the pinch seam around the arms on the sliders? Is the pinch seam strong enough for me to do this? Any help or direction that anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
It wouldn't be easy to do being that your sliders will be in the way but, yeah, you could essentially notch your pinch seams and that would help. OR, you could install a 1" body lift and that will take care of the problem as well. :yup:
 

dyn0mitemat

Member
Wouldn't look the greatest, but it'd be easier than trimming them possibly. just bend the pinch seams back for clearance
 

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
1" body lift is a great idea. My sliders were welded on to close as well. On the rubicon the tub flexed into the slider. It put a nice impression on the sliders into the tub.
 

TANK

New member
Taking a look just now, using the snake attachment off a dremel and a quality metal blade I can get at the seams pretty easy. It might be a bit more tedious and slow going, but it should work. Luckily my jeep is all black, so I don't think it would look too terrible. I thought about bending them back too, but I'd still see them being a clearance issue.

Would there be any negative effects to doing this though?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
1" body lift is a great idea. My sliders were welded on to close as well. On the rubicon the tub flexed into the slider. It put a nice impression on the sliders into the tub.

The new body mounts on the JK are awesome in that they're true isolators but suck in that they allow for a LOT of body movement.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Taking a look just now, using the snake attachment off a dremel and a quality metal blade I can get at the seams pretty easy. It might be a bit more tedious and slow going, but it should work. Luckily my jeep is all black, so I don't think it would look too terrible. I thought about bending them back too, but I'd still see them being a clearance issue.

Would there be any negative effects to doing this though?

The negative would be that you won't be able to clear enough off and when off roading, you're pinch seams will still hit the tubes of the sliders. In the end, you may end up doing all this work for nothing. But really, that's hardly a negative and if you're up to it, I'd say give it a go.
 

TANK

New member
Well, I guess I know what I'll be doing this afternoon then. Now I'm really glad that I decided to get the rock skins as well.
 

Hot94Z28

New member
I ordered mine from Northridge and I know mine didn't come with any instructions. I know it's pretty strait forward but some key points would be nice for people so mistakes can hopefully be avoided.
 

metalic

Member
I ordered mine from Northridge and I know mine didn't come with any instructions. I know it's pretty strait forward but some key points would be nice for people so mistakes can hopefully be avoided.

Agreed
Mine will he here tomorrow and hopefully being welded on Thursday or Friday
 

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
The new body mounts on the JK are awesome in that they're true isolators but suck in that they allow for a LOT of body movement.

Yup, you would think since I worked for EVO MFG I would have made sure I had them welded on correctly !
 

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
I ordered mine from Northridge and I know mine didn't come with any instructions. I know it's pretty strait forward but some key points would be nice for people so mistakes can hopefully be avoided.

Key point, use a finger gap at a minimum between the pinch seem and the slider. That's about it. I told my welder that.

When I picked the jeep up, it was not done. Just make sure you stress it.
 

10frank9

Web Wheeler
Even with the finger gap mine still managed to tag the pinch seam and "clearance" it a bit. For the OP sucks to tag it while driving, slap a body lift on and call it a day.
 

Hot94Z28

New member
Key point, use a finger gap at a minimum between the pinch seem and the slider. That's about it. I told my welder that.

When I picked the jeep up, it was not done. Just make sure you stress it.

I welded mine and it was strait forward, but I still looked online at different Jeeps with them to see where everyone had them welded. I think some quick pointers would be nice.

EVO is not the only one to not send instructions, my ACE rear bumper didn't have any either I ended up finding an install video on their website. That was after I installed the bumper and found out the four long bolts are to help reinforce around built in receiver hitch.
 

Havoc40

New member
I'll be starting this project myself here shortly. I'd prefer to be a little more precise than a "finger gap" of clearance. I have plenty of material on hand to make some spacers before welding. So...what's the ideal pinch seam clearance dimension? .500", .5625", .625"?
 

JAGS

Hooked
I'll be starting this project myself here shortly. I'd prefer to be a little more precise than a "finger gap" of clearance. I have plenty of material on hand to make some spacers before welding. So...what's the ideal pinch seam clearance dimension? .500", .5625", .625"?

I used a long 3/4 square steel tube run along the bottom of the pinch to keep the gap even. Then the welder clamped in place. Even with that, with enough force I've still managed to flex it enough to rub.
 
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