If you could upgrade one axle, which one? Front or Rear

NevadaZielmeister

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
Gentlemen,

As I am starting to hone in on a decent build, I would like to ask you all a question: If you could only afford to upgrade a 2016 JKUR Front or Rear Axle, which one would be better? The choice would be to upgrade the front axle housing with a Dynatrac Prorock44 Ultimate and be able to save a significant amount of money on the internals by swapping them over, or upgrade the rear axle with an entirely new Dynatrac Prorock60 (Semi-Float) assembly?

The way I see it, I can upgrade the front axle for $2,900 and the rear axle would cost me $7,500. Or am I way off on those estimates?

What other suggestions would you guys recommend? Would you guys recommend the Full Float?

I am always thankful for all of the knowledge you guys share. I thank you in advance.
 
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07JKSahara

New member
NevadaZielmeister said:
Gentlemen,

As I am starting to hone in on a decent build, I would like to ask you all a question: If you could only afford to upgrade a 2016 JKUR Front or Rear Axle, which one would be better? The choice would be to upgrade the front axle housing with a Dynatrac Prorock44 Ultimate and be able to save a significant amount of money on the internals by swapping them over, or upgrade the rear axle with an entirely new Dynatrac Prorock60 (Semi-Float) assembly?

The way I see it, I can upgrade the front axle for $2,900 and the rear axle would cost me $7,500. Or am I way off on those estimates?

What other suggestions would you guys recommend? Would you guys recommend the Full Float?

I am always thankful for all of the knowledge you guys share. I thank you in advance.
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You're going to get a slew of questions about how you wheel, what size tires, end goals. I imagine your a 37" or under guy. In that case I would do the PR44 front you have listed. You're rear is surprisingly strong. Some very capable rigs I've seen are built that way.
 
NevadaZielmeister

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
07JKSahara said:
You're going to get a slew of questions about how you wheel, what size tires, end goals. I imagine your a 37" or under guy. In that case I would do the PR44 front you have listed. You're rear is surprisingly strong. Some very capable rigs I've seen are built that way.
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Yes, you are correct and I must explain my end game:

2016 JKUR with 37 inch tall tires (ATX Beadlocks with Nitto Trail Grapplers), EVO Front and Rear DTD with Long Arm, Bypasses, EVO Lever, re-geared to 5.13, Front and rear Poison Spyder Bumpers, winch. I am looking at on-board air in the future for ARB lockers, but that is another discussion.

Purpose: Overlanding and Rock Crawling, but somewhat easy on the little pedal while I learn. Most of the over landing with be with the wife and kids, so not crazy fast, just have a good ride. Rock Crawling will be for just me and joining other people on trips.
 
ERAUGrad04

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
^ I'll mimic want Scott said. I personally just upgraded my front to a PR44 w/RCVs and reused the factory locker. Just the added caster was worth it! The Jeep drives like a completely different vehicle.

The rear Dana44 is considerably stronger and will hold up to quite a bit.
 
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07JKSahara

New member
ERAUGrad04 said:
^ I'll mimic want Scott said. I personally just upgraded my front to a PR44 w/RCVs and reused the factory locker. Just the added caster was worth it! The Jeep drives like a completely different vehicle.

The rear Dana44 is considerably stronger and will hold up to quite a bit.
Click to expand...

Haha!! I was just about to edit and say check out the Mauser Build.
 
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07JKSahara

New member
NevadaZielmeister said:
Yes, you are correct and I must explain my end game:

2016 JKUR with 37 inch tall tires (ATX Beadlocks with Nitto Trail Grapplers), EVO Front and Rear DTD with Long Arm, Bypasses, EVO Lever, re-geared to 5.13, Front and rear Poison Spyder Bumpers, winch. I am looking at on-board air in the future for ARB lockers, but that is another discussion.

Purpose: Overlanding and Rock Crawling, but somewhat easy on the little pedal while I learn. Most of the over landing with be with the wife and kids, so not crazy fast, just have a good ride. Rock Crawling will be for just me and joining other people on trips.
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Hmm... If you're planning DTD, I might hold off. The tabs are different on the axle for that set up and you'll have to remove/weld the DTD tabs back on.... That said, the speed that suspension is set up for will likely punish your rear D44.
 
ERAUGrad04

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
Yeah, with DTD, if only one axle is in the budget, the front would get my vote.

That said, a DTD setup can easily push the axles pretty hard without you knowing it. A PR44 with 37s will handle DTD great and I actually think that is the setup on Rubicat. The rear axle will be OK, but you may consider planning a PR60 semi float for the rear at some point in the future. The PR60 SF can be configured in Stock width along with the factory bolt pattern.
 
10frank9

10frank9

Web Wheeler
Well I will disagree here and say that if you are throwing money at your rig for a DTD, you will need PR60's if you want to do it right. You can get by with a stock rear and a PR44 from but don't be surprised if you run into issues with them. I know folks who have bent their D44's with bolt on coilovers let alone a DTD. Just food for thought.

Maybe run your stock axles until you can buy PR60's and 8 lug wheels. That is THE optimal setup for a DTD.
 
2Cross

2Cross

Caught the Bug
Not a simple question. But IF you are really going to do what you say.
The front axle is my vote
 
Saharacon

Saharacon

Member
So I have a sahara obviously. I would always upgrade my front dana 30 first to a dana 44. But if your going with a long arm kit and all the extra mile I'd say atleast get a prorocks 44 upfront and prorock 60 for the rear
 
quertyman

quertyman

Member
Has anyone ever actually broken/bent a prorock 44 at the c or axle tube? And if so what did that take to do so?
 
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ERAUGrad04

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
10frank9 said:
Well I will disagree here and say that if you are throwing money at your rig for a DTD, you will need PR60's if you want to do it right. You can get by with a stock rear and a PR44 from but don't be surprised if you run into issues with them. I know folks who have bent their D44's with bolt on coilovers let alone a DTD. Just food for thought.

Maybe run your stock axles until you can buy PR60's and 8 lug wheels. That is THE optimal setup for a DTD.
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While I don't disagree that PR60's front and rear are the 100% best option, I would disagree by saying there are other very acceptable options that do not include $17,000k in axles. A PR44 up front with a PR60 SF in the rear will save nearly $10k (damn near the cost of the DTD!), and will have no issues what so ever. IIRC, Rubicat is actually running a PR44 up front and a stock 44 with DTD and has ~70,000mi on the clock. While curbs at the malls Eddie and Cindy wheel at are only mild at best, I don't recall them complaining about the setup nor breaking it. :cheesy:

I spoke at length with Dynatrac and NR4x4 and if 37s are your end game, a PR44 is going to be more than enough, even with DTD. NR says they average 1-1.5 PR44's per week and have never warrantied one since they began selling them.

As for 8 lugs, while it can be a fun discussion at times, the 3.6L is NOT going to have a wheel slip with 5 lugs if torqued correctly. I have done some searching on the topic and can't really come up with any problems associated with having 5 lugs. Now, if a V8 is in the plan, that is a different story. The additional clamping force can really make a difference with all of that torqued transferred through 4LO.

Just my $.02.
 
highoctane

highoctane

Caught the Bug
ERAUGrad04 said:
While I don't disagree that PR60's front and rear are the 100% best option, I would disagree by saying there are other very acceptable options that do not include $17,000k in axles. A PR44 up front with a PR60 SF in the rear will save nearly $10k (damn near the cost of the DTD!), and will have no issues what so ever. IIRC, Rubicat is actually running a PR44 up front and a stock 44 with DTD and has ~70,000mi on the clock. While curbs at the malls Eddie and Cindy wheel at are only mild at best, I don't recall them complaining about the setup nor breaking it. :cheesy: I spoke at length with Dynatrac and NR4x4 and if 37s are your end game, a PR44 is going to be more than enough, even with DTD. NR says they average 1-1.5 PR44's per week and have never warrantied one since they began selling them. As for 8 lugs, while it can be a fun discussion at times, the 3.6L is NOT going to have a wheel slip with 5 lugs if torqued correctly. I have done some searching on the topic and can't really come up with any problems associated with having 5 lugs. Now, if a V8 is in the plan, that is a different story. The additional clamping force can really make a difference with all of that torqued transferred through 4LO. Just my $.02.
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Pretty sure Eddie is running a full float PR60 in the back of Rubicat, and the PR44 up front that you mentioned. I have seen people break lug studs and also the unit bearings on the front Dana 44 can fail when using it for high speed like the DTD is designed for. A full float front axle with quality locking hubs, a proper spindle, and roller bearings is significantly stronger.
 
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2Cross

2Cross

Caught the Bug
This is interesting.
I've seen PR60s break here in New Mexico at the Chile Challenge.

You can break any axle. If NevadaZeilmeister breaks a PR44 with 37" tires. Then he should let all of us know. Then he can decide if he wants to go full PR 60/80 or keep the rear D44.

I personally went with the rear PR60 SF because I run some tough trails and have a 5.7 HEMI. I probably could have kept the stock D44 but I like to use the skinny pedal and I like to drive home.

Edit- seen the locking hub break on a PR60 front axle.
 
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Saharacon

Saharacon

Member
ERAUGrad04 said:
While I don't disagree that PR60's front and rear are the 100% best option, I would disagree by saying there are other very acceptable options that do not include $17,000k in axles. A PR44 up front with a PR60 SF in the rear will save nearly $10k (damn near the cost of the DTD!), and will have no issues what so ever. IIRC, Rubicat is actually running a PR44 up front and a stock 44 with DTD and has ~70,000mi on the clock. While curbs at the malls Eddie and Cindy wheel at are only mild at best, I don't recall them complaining about the setup nor breaking it. :cheesy:

I spoke at length with Dynatrac and NR4x4 and if 37s are your end game, a PR44 is going to be more than enough, even with DTD. NR says they average 1-1.5 PR44's per week and have never warrantied one since they began selling them.

As for 8 lugs, while it can be a fun discussion at times, the 3.6L is NOT going to have a wheel slip with 5 lugs if torqued correctly. I have done some searching on the topic and can't really come up with any problems associated with having 5 lugs. Now, if a V8 is in the plan, that is a different story. The additional clamping force can really make a difference with all of that torqued transferred through 4LO.

Just my $.02.
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I agree 100% I'll never justify spending over 10k. I could just buy another jeep at that point.

I'll be going with a prorock 60 rear due to the 5.3 LMG I'll be dropping in. Need something to push her along. But to start I'll be picking up a ECUG dana 44. Welding on an axle truss and so forth. If I haven't broken a dana 30 more than some axle seals, then I'd say I'll probably never screw up a reinforced axle housing.
 
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