Amplifier question

P1TBU11

P1TBU11

Member
I just bought a head unit, an amp, and a couple of woofers from my cousin. One of his friends installed it for me while I was at work. It sounds pretty good.

After I got off work today, I was looking at the box to figure a way to secure it when I noticed that one woofer was hitting way harder than the other. After some investigation I found the speaker wires ran like this.

I moved the wires to the correct location, but nothing changed. The woofer that was bridged correctly still hits harder than the other.

Would wiring it like this fry something in the amp. (I have very limited electrical and audio wiring knowledge).

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1441148111.565502.jpg
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
P1TBU11 said:
I just bought a head unit, an amp, and a couple of woofers from my cousin. One of his friends installed it for me while I was at work. It sounds pretty good.

After I got off work today, I was looking at the box to figure a way to secure it when I noticed that one woofer was hitting way harder than the other. After some investigation I found the speaker wires ran like this.

I moved the wires to the correct location, but nothing changed. The woofer that was bridged correctly still hits harder than the other.

Would wiring it like this fry something in the amp. (I have very limited electrical and audio wiring knowledge).

View attachment 163087
Click to expand...

Okay my train of thought: I had an amp that blew and subs wouldn't hit at all. So I don't think amp is blown, I'm guessing it's a 4 channel, so there is a gain for each individual channel. Make sure the gains are set the same for both subs, this is one of the pains to running a 4 channel into 2 subs
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
Also try switching cords to each sub that will tell you if your problem is in your amp or your subs
 
Saharacon

Saharacon

Member
It's possible one of the voice coils is fried. Hook just one sub at a time up and try it. But no you won't blow anything so long as you don't blast it when testing.
 
P1TBU11

P1TBU11

Member
I forgot to mention that I switched the wires and the problem switched sides.

The side that was bridged correctly pushes either sub harder than the other side.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
do you know if it's 4ohm, 2 ohm and what does the amp push? you'll need to get the amp manual and speaker specs to make sure they are bridged properly and at the correct ohm's
 
P1TBU11

P1TBU11

Member
Amp description:

product Type: Car Amplifier Frequency Response: 70 kHz Power Supply: MOSFET Product Type: Car Amplifier Frequency Response: 10 Hz to 70 kHz Manufacturer Part Number: GM-A6604 Power Supply: MOSFET Limited Warranty: 1 Year Weight (Approximate): 8 lb Features: Pulse Width Modulation Circuitry Features: Bass Boost Features: Speaker Level Inputs Manufacturer: Pioneer Corporation Product Model: GM-A6604 Product Name: New.- 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier Brand Name: Pioneer Product Series: GM Brand Name: Pioneer Classification: Class AB Classification: Class AB Height: 2.5 Width: 13.8 Depth: 8.5 Audio Channels: 4 RMS Output Power: 360 W PMPO Output Power: 760 W Bridgeable: Yes Product Family: GM Rated Power @ 4 Ohm: 60 W Bridged Power @ 4 Ohm: 180 W Audio Channels: 4 RMS Output Power: 360 W PMPO Output Power: 760 W Bridgeable: Yes Rated Power @ 2 Ohm: 4 x 90 W Rated Power @ 4 Ohm: 4 x 60 W Bridged Power @ 4 Ohm: 2 x 180 W
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
P1TBU11 said:
Amp description:

product Type: Car Amplifier Frequency Response: 70 kHz Power Supply: MOSFET Product Type: Car Amplifier Frequency Response: 10 Hz to 70 kHz Manufacturer Part Number: GM-A6604 Power Supply: MOSFET Limited Warranty: 1 Year Weight (Approximate): 8 lb Features: Pulse Width Modulation Circuitry Features: Bass Boost Features: Speaker Level Inputs Manufacturer: Pioneer Corporation Product Model: GM-A6604 Product Name: New.- 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier Brand Name: Pioneer Product Series: GM Brand Name: Pioneer Classification: Class AB Classification: Class AB Height: 2.5 Width: 13.8 Depth: 8.5 Audio Channels: 4 RMS Output Power: 360 W PMPO Output Power: 760 W Bridgeable: Yes Product Family: GM Rated Power @ 4 Ohm: 60 W Bridged Power @ 4 Ohm: 180 W Audio Channels: 4 RMS Output Power: 360 W PMPO Output Power: 760 W Bridgeable: Yes Rated Power @ 2 Ohm: 4 x 90 W Rated Power @ 4 Ohm: 4 x 60 W Bridged Power @ 4 Ohm: 2 x 180 W
Click to expand...

Did you check the gains?
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
P1TBU11 said:
I THINK the woofers are 4ohm. They are lightning audio 10s.
Click to expand...
I looked up your amp and there's a gain for both the channel A and channel B that's what I'd put my money into being the culprit. I don't think you'd be getting any power if it were fried, it'd also be in protect mode if I'm not mistaken
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1441158586.068236.jpg
 
Saharacon

Saharacon

Member
It's a class AB amp. That's your problem right there my friend. MONO block or D blocks are much stronger with internals. It's very possible that you had to much of an amp draw and screwed the internals up.

I'd say honestly though if the issue moved from on sub it's something with the wiring.
Do you have a multimeter?

Or do you know what ohm rhe voice coils are rates at? Maybe your drawing to little power or to much.
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
Saharacon said:
It's a class AB amp. That's your problem right there my friend. MONO block or D blocks are much stronger with internals. It's very possible that you had to much of an amp draw and screwed the internals up.

I'd say honestly though if the issue moved from on sub it's something with the wiring.
Do you have a multimeter?

Or do you know what ohm rhe voice coils are rates at? Maybe your drawing to little power or to much.
Click to expand...

Hahaha class ABs suck for subs
 
P1TBU11

P1TBU11

Member
Problem with wiring from HU to amp or amp to sub? It's all new from HU to amp.

Would I be better off using any of this old stuff? ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1441160180.064043.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1441160195.841947.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1441160256.039403.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1441160280.559144.jpg
 
Saharacon

Saharacon

Member
That top one looks like a MONO but I'm not sure it's blurry.

This is what I suggest, get your self a nice mono block that can handle the rms rating of your subs wired together.

You need to get a basic understanding of ohms law, or atleast find a good calculator on google. Use this to get your rms to ohm and find an amp to match.

I want you to first how ever go to your amp and look at both gains. Make sure the are at 12 o clock , set both side to LPF, and drop bass boost down all the way. Let's re test this.

You can also just wire your subs to one side as well. But we will go over that if your still unsatisfied
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
Saharacon said:
That top one looks like a MONO but I'm not sure it's blurry.

This is what I suggest, get your self a nice mono block that can handle the rms rating of your subs wired together.

You need to get a basic understanding of ohms law, or atleast find a good calculator on google. Use this to get your rms to ohm and find an amp to match.

I want you to first how ever go to your amp and look at both gains. Make sure the are at 12 o clock , set both side to LPF, and drop bass boost down all the way. Let's re test this.

You can also just wire your subs to one side as well. But we will go over that if your still unsatisfied
Click to expand...

Can an internal fail partially? Making it not as strong on one channel?
 
Saharacon

Saharacon

Member
Yes you have a series of Mosfets within the amp that generally go bad on cheaper and older brands

Edit: sorry if I spelt that wrong been over 5 years since I installed and took part in car audio competitions
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
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