Aftermarket Driveshafts

On an old Thread Eddie had posted that the OEM DS is a 1330 u-joint so I'm confused as to why most vendors sell 1310 Driveshafts for front JK applications and post that they are stronger than stock.
Any ideas as to why they market themselves as stronger than stock with a smaller ujoint besides wanting to make a buck??

The driveshafts are stronger. The u-joints are 1310, 1330, or 1350, with the 1350 being the strongest, and the 1310 having the ability to operate at the greatest angle. Since the 1310 isn't much weaker than the 1330, you may benefit more from the few extra degrees before binding. It all depends on your application. For example, I'm having new driveshafts with 1310 u-joints installed right now on my 2 door with a 4" long arm lift. Since I tend to take it easy and crawl over the technical stuff, my mechanics and I thought I would benefit from more angle instead of going to 1350's for more strength. The driveshafts I'm getting are stronger with a smaller diameter. Hopefully I won't be able to take a rock to the rear driveshaft and dent it again causing damage to the pinion gear, bearing, and seal.:doh:

Spot on, thanks for clearing that

KYRubi said:

The driveshafts are stronger. The u-joints are 1310, 1330, or 1350, with the 1350 being the strongest, and the 1310 having the ability to operate at the greatest angle. Since the 1310 isn't much weaker than the 1330, you may benefit more from the few extra degrees before binding. It all depends on your application. For example, I'm having new driveshafts with 1310 u-joints installed right now on my 2 door with a 4" long arm lift. Since I tend to take it easy and crawl over the technical stuff, my mechanics and I thought I would benefit from more angle instead of going to 1350's for more strength. The driveshafts I'm getting are stronger with a smaller diameter. Hopefully I won't be able to take a rock to the rear driveshaft and dent it again causing damage to the pinion gear, bearing, and seal.:doh:

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That being said I saw hinrichs get stuck between a rock and a hard place (tree) and that 1310 went boom pretty easily, barely gave any gas.

seanb123 said:

That being said I saw hinrichs get stuck between a rock and a hard place (tree) and that 1310 went boom pretty easily, barely gave any gas.

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Yep. Just the right amount of force against something that doesn't give will break a part somewhere in the chain in a heartbeat. I was just saying that my mechanics and I thought the 1310's were right for my Jeep for the wheeling I do. Everyone's mileage will vary and they need to make their own decisions.

So the 1310 can handle a higher angle than the 1350?

Joker151 said:

So the 1310 can handle a higher angle than the 1350?

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My mechanics explained it to me as it will vary anywhere between 20-30 degrees on the 1350, but usually less than you get from a 1310 especially from the same manufacturer. Some machine work can be done to the CV components and the sealing element in the center can be removed to attain around 30 degrees before bind with the 1350. Most 1310's are around 30 degrees before bind and sometimes up to 35 degrees can be attained through machine work. Also, many 1310's have a grease fitting for re-lubrication where many 1350's do not. They said if I was going to D60's and 40" tires, then I should definitely get the 1350's, but with the wheeling I do the 1310's would probably be better.

However, I am not a mechanic and I'm not an expert. Just trying to be helpful and I am simply repeating what people that know more than I do, and have more experience than I do have told me in very recent conversations as I was deciding what to purchase. So if someone more knowledgeable on the subject cares to correct me or expand on this I definitely welcome the info.

Yes yes please expand the info, I only want to have to buy driveshafts once.