Build progression advice

Speedy_RCW · Sep 23, 2015

Hey guys,

So here's my dilemma: I have a 15 JKUR Hard Rock which is in the process of slow build. Basically I'm looking to get all my prerequisites done before tires, wheels and suspension. I've done my skids, winch, EVO C2 gussets and Teraflex leveling kit (just to help with sag after winch install). I have the AEV tire carrier on the list to hold the spare 37 I'm looking to run and was going to order front axle shafts this week. Again, this is all prior to suspension and wheels/tires. Originally I was just gonna bite the bullet at get the RCV's on my factory front, but kind of changed my mind on how I want to build the front end. I'm more of a weekend warrior (but will be running the more difficult trails) but also looking for reliability out in the woods. I've done alot of research and come to the conclusion that the factory housing will eventually bend and the factory locker will eventually fail. That being said I think my longer term goal would be to go PR44 with 35 spline and an ARB. Since that's the case I was looking to save the bucks on the RCV's for the time being and get Ten Factory shafts to get me by for awhile. After talking to some friends that casted a little doubt on a u joint style shaft with that large of a tire, I've come here for some advice. In searching threads it looks like there are plenty of people who are running U joints and also plenty running RCV's. I just hesitate to spend the money on RCV's if I wont be able to use them when I get the Dynatrac. I've read in some posts that Ten Factory shafts use a larger U-joint that may be stronger than most 44 joints? Isn't it just a standard 760 u joint? My post is two-fold, first what do you think of the plan to just run the factory front with C2's and chromo u-joint shafts until the PR44 and ARB is a reality? And what kind of failures have you all experienced with U-joint shafts. I couldnt find much info through the search so thought i could get some specific answers here, Thanks in advance.

seanb123 · Sep 23, 2015

Speedy_RCW said:
Hey guys,

So here's my dilemma: I have a 15 JKUR Hard Rock which is in the process of slow build. Basically I'm looking to get all my prerequisites done before tires, wheels and suspension. I've done my skids, winch, EVO C2 gussets and Teraflex leveling kit (just to help with sag after winch install). I have the AEV tire carrier on the list to hold the spare 37 I'm looking to run and was going to order front axle shafts this week. Again, this is all prior to suspension and wheels/tires. Originally I was just gonna bite the bullet at get the RCV's on my factory front, but kind of changed my mind on how I want to build the front end. I'm more of a weekend warrior (but will be running the more difficult trails) but also looking for reliability out in the woods. I've done alot of research and come to the conclusion that the factory housing will eventually bend and the factory locker will eventually fail. That being said I think my longer term goal would be to go PR44 with 35 spline and an ARB. Since that's the case I was looking to save the bucks on the RCV's for the time being and get Ten Factory shafts to get me by for awhile. After talking to some friends that casted a little doubt on a u joint style shaft with that large of a tire, I've come here for some advice. In searching threads it looks like there are plenty of people who are running U joints and also plenty running RCV's. I just hesitate to spend the money on RCV's if I wont be able to use them when I get the Dynatrac. I've read in some posts that Ten Factory shafts use a larger U-joint that may be stronger than most 44 joints? Isn't it just a standard 760 u joint? My post is two-fold, first what do you think of the plan to just run the factory front with C2's and chromo u-joint shafts until the PR44 and ARB is a reality? And what kind of failures have you all experienced with U-joint shafts. I couldnt find much info through the search so thought i could get some specific answers here, Thanks in advance.

I say don't waste any money on the front you've done what you can and the rest is a waste. People like to think their axels are made of paper. Your first trail will not be the end of your axle. Run it till you can't then upgrade

wayoflife · Sep 23, 2015

Speedy_RCW said:
After talking to some friends that casted a little doubt on a u joint style shaft with that large of a tire, I've come here for some advice.

Well, who are your friends and what makes them so qualified to cast doubt in your mind? Were they able to share personal experience with JK Dana 44 axle shafts that have full circle clips fail or were they just feeding you a lot of fear, uncertainty and doubt based on Dana 30 shafts or shafts with just c-clips on them?

In searching threads it looks like there are plenty of people who are running U joints and also plenty running RCV's. I just hesitate to spend the money on RCV's if I wont be able to use them when I get the Dynatrac.

Yup, I have run both and can tell you that you should hesitate to pay upwards of $400 just for a set of shafts that will make loud snapping noises over time if you play hard and that RCV will tell you is totally normal and, if you twist your splines, they won't warranty because that is normal too. Sure, they'll help you out after you break one of their shafts but to me, the best warranty is the one you never have to call on. For a $400 premium, I would expect more but, that's just me.

I've read in some posts that Ten Factory shafts use a larger U-joint that may be stronger than most 44 joints? Isn't it just a standard 760 u joint?

This is NOT correct. The 760 u-joint is a TJ joint and ALL JK Dana 44 shafts use a LARGER joint that is specific to it. That being said, the real issues IS NOT the u-joint but rather, the c-clips that come standard on front axle shaft. Over time, movement in the bearing caps can cause the clips to work themselves off and without them, there is nothing to hold the caps in place. Once off, your trunions will tear through the yoke ears and cause a failure. Full circle clips will help prevent this and that alone will make your standard u-joint shafts last a lot longer if not rival an RCV. Knowledge is power and knowing the truth and based on facts will help you make smarter decisions.

My post is two-fold, first what do you think of the plan to just run the factory front with C2's and chromo u-joint shafts until the PR44 and ARB is a reality? And what kind of failures have you all experienced with U-joint shafts. I couldnt find much info through the search so thought i could get some specific answers here, Thanks in advance.

I still run standard chromo u-joint shafts with FULL CIRCLE CLIPS on my 2012 JK and have almost 80,000 miles on them. Of course, I'm just a mall crawler so, you can take that with a grain of salt.

Speedy_RCW · Sep 23, 2015

wayoflife said:
Well, who are your friends and what makes them so qualified to cast doubt in your mind? Were they able to share personal experience with JK Dana 44 axle shafts that have full circle clips fail or were they just feeding you a lot of fear, uncertainty and doubt based on Dana 30 shafts or shafts with just c-clips on them?

Yup, I have run both and can tell you that you should hesitate to pay upwards of $400 just for a set of shafts that will make loud snapping noises over time if you play hard and that RCV will tell you is totally normal and, if you twist your splines, they won't warranty because that is normal too. Sure, they'll help you out after you break one of their shafts but to me, the best warranty is the one you never have to call on. For a $400 premium, I would expect more but, that's just me.

This is NOT correct. The 760 u-joint is a TJ joint and ALL JK Dana 44 shafts use a LARGER joint that is specific to it. That being said, the real issues IS NOT the u-joint but rather, the c-clips that come standard on front axle shaft. Over time, movement in the bearing caps can cause the clips to work themselves off and without them, there is nothing to hold the caps in place. Once off, your trunions will tear through the yoke ears and cause a failure. Full circle clips will help prevent this and that alone will make your standard u-joint shafts last a lot longer if not rival an RCV. Knowledge is power and knowing the truth and based on facts will help you make smarter decisions.

I still run standard chromo u-joint shafts with FULL CIRCLE CLIPS on my 2012 JK and have almost 80,000 miles on them. Of course, I'm just a mall crawler so, you can take that with a grain of salt.

Thanks for your feedback, that's why I was coming here for advice. The guys I was speaking with didn't have JK specific knowledge and were just sharing their experiences with breaking non JK Dana 44 U-joints in general and more or less just got my mind wandering. I was probably the one casting doubt based on what I was hearing from them. I agree with the warranty comment whole heartedly and especially didn't want to spend the money on something that will basically be temporary in my jeep. This info is exactly what I was looking for. I see the way you guys wheel and was looking for first hand experiences such as this. I appreciate your time to reply and give me a little reassurance in the route I'm going. Thanks again.

Build progression advice

Speedy_RCW

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seanb123

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wayoflife

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Speedy_RCW

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