Rear main seal again :(

BumblebeeZA

BumblebeeZA

New member
Hi guys, now a Jeep doesnt leak oil, it marks its territory :brows:

However, I had a rear main seal leak beginning of the year which I had replaced but it started leaking again.
Is this a very common issue, should I just leave it? Its bad but not bad enough that I notice any drop in the oil level.

My Jeep doesnt burn oil so between services my oil is always full.
I just see my oil pan is full of oil which is blowing back towards my gearbox and in my garage I have the oil drip marks.

I also started noticing my water in my reservoir drops 1cm per month.
There are no strange noises or any funny actions, My Jeep is smooth reliable and has no hiccups.


Advice will be appreciated ;)
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
As far as the oil leak, are you confident it's the rear main seal? If it is, most shops carry a 12 month, 12000 mile warranty on repairs. If it is that seal, I would get it in as soon as possible. Another suggestion is to add dye to the engine oil, drive it around for a week or so and use a UV light to see where the leak is coming from. Also, if it's the rear main seal, the shop hopefully used a good OEM seal.
 
BumblebeeZA

BumblebeeZA

New member
WJCO said:
As far as the oil leak, are you confident it's the rear main seal? If it is, most shops carry a 12 month, 12000 mile warranty on repairs. If it is that seal, I would get it in as soon as possible. Another suggestion is to add dye to the engine oil, drive it around for a week or so and use a UV light to see where the leak is coming from. Also, if it's the rear main seal, the shop hopefully used a good OEM seal.
Click to expand...

Glad you mentioned this, I phoned Jeep and they are going to asses it tomorrow.
It could be the front crank seal too, so Ill check tomorrow, Jeep will do this under the 12month workmanship guarantee ;) :rock:
 
Dopey84

Dopey84

New member
I just had my front crank seal replaced and I had an water pump leak fixed the same time so keep an eye exactly where the leak is coming from
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
If the work is guaranteed, I would have them address the leak. A rear main seal leak is really common on the older 4.0L motor but not as much on the 3.8L and 3.6L. Not that it doesn't happen but, if it were just replaced, I would have to think they screwed up somewhere.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
If it is the front crank area, there is a bulletin 09-008-07 for timing cover being porous too and can be mis-diagnosed as a front seal. I would hope your Jeep dealer is well aware of this :). Hopefully they'll dye-test it regardless.
 
Webe

Webe

New member
I thought my rear main was bad too but it was actually between the rear main and oil pain. I just had to use form-a-gasket instead of an actual oil pain gasket and it sealed up great. 3.8L. Also seems like the 3.8L tends to have a small coolent leak on the rear of the intake manifold. It will evap before making it to the floor so that was a hard one to find. Replace that gasket too and that may solve your loss of anti freeze. :twocents:
 
Ed Pursell

Ed Pursell

New member
Rear main

Hi Everyone, here's my story that happened the last couple weeks:

My original was "weeping" at 28,500 miles and was replaced in June this year. Saw drips of oil a couple weeks ago at 31,500. Dealer rplaced, took it out for a test ride and put it on the lift to inspect, oil was now running out, so had to order another seal assy. and put another one in.. Chrysler part number is 68223854AA for the part, and transmission has to be pulled when replacing the seal assembly. It's a plate with gasketing, along with the main one piece oil seal for the crank. There are two "male" pins on the plate which fit in "female recesses, and I saw what the dealer saved for me to look at. It almost seemed that the pins were tweaked a hair, and when put on, didn't sit properly flush, causing the leak..The third one according to the Service Mgr. fit perfect into the female mating surface holes on the engine. I'm still not happy. I only got 8 months on my 5 year, 50,000 warranty. All started with 28,500 miles, while replacing my oil pump/solenoid due to a code.
 
D

dirtdonthurt

New member
im on my 3rd rms. mine started weeping and I insisted it was the rms.we put dye and it was changed. about a month after it began again. dealer changed again but said there wasn't physical proof but since they were in there they did again. im not 100%sure it will be the last one installed. currently have an active leak possibly from passenger head gasket again! or some bolt under powersteering that goes through the block. upper oil pan leaked as well and was replaced after I kept complaining. kind of sucks
 
Ed Pursell

Ed Pursell

New member
Yea, I don't get this....I actually went to a dealer Saturday, found a Willys 2-door that I liked, been looking at, but was sitting for a month or so ( a 2016 new) I'm happy with my 4 door that I bought new in 2012, just put $1,000.00 in Duratracs 4 weeks ago... I don't feel I should have to downsize to a 2 door, no power package, dual top, to just about keep the same payments as I'm paying now. I like what I got, but man, I feel "gun shy" with this issue and my warranty ticking away... The Willys is sweet, but crank windows, no auto locks, ect and my concern is it's been at the dealer for a while. I'm on the edge of waiting and trading, or see if this RMS happens in a few months again.... My 2012 has pretty much on it, all the power items including heated mirrors, windows. I still owe appx. $11,000, they started at $21,000 for a trade on mine. The Willys is $32,500. I'm hoping the last seal was properly installed, but don't need a problem after my 2017, July 5 Yr drive train warranty runs out with the same issue.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
I don't like to use additives but after my rear main started leaking again I used a bottle of Blue Devil rear main sealer. it's been at least a year since I poured it in and haven't seen any signs of dripping oil.

at 139k miles I'm hoping to do an LS swap in 2017, but the 3.8 is still pulling strong and hasn't given me issues other than RM and both manifolds cracked :thumb:
 
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