Stock D30 to Rubi D44 Swap

Tylerself17

New member
Hello friends, back once again for some trusty advice.. I have recently found a front and rear set of D44 front and rear Rubicon axles with a 4.10 ratio with only 3500 miles!! I was wondering what I would need to do in order to swap my crappy D30 out and put in the D44's, they will have the factory lockers and I was curious how others have wired theirs in. would I need to change driveshafts or anything of that nature? Or would they truly just bolt in and be road ready?? I am getting these axles for almost free, not going to say how much, but I was also wondering if I would be better off selling them and going with a set of junkyard D60's instead because I plan on moving up from my current 37's to 40's eventually.. Any feedback is appreciated and will definitely help me with my decision! Thank you guys in advance once again!!
 

hinrichs

Caught the Bug
They should bolt right up front and rear without any mods at all. I am not sure however how to wire up the lockers, but there are only 2 wires needed for that anyway. Sorry I couldnt be more of a help.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
A Rubi 44 is no better than your stock D30. Your better off saving your money and putting it toward a pr44 and keep running the stock rear 44 as its a true d44.

If your going to run 40's you mine as well save your money all together for pr60's
 

Tylerself17

New member
A Rubi 44 is no better than your stock D30. Your better off saving your money and putting it toward a pr44 and keep running the stock rear 44 as its a true d44.

If your going to run 40's you mine as well save your money all together for pr60's

I currently have 37/13.50/17 Toyo M/T's and it isn't too bad driving around, I just know that I'm driving on borrowed time as it is anyways with a stock D30 with 3.21 in it. But I'm getting these axles for a ridiculous price due to a friend that is just throwing them my way as they are doing atleast 60's for now with 40's.. So what I was thinking is buy the Rubi front and rear axles and install them then flip my stock sport D30 and D44 to a salvage yard or someone in OK that is looking for new ones due to damage or other reasons.
 

hinrichs

Caught the Bug
I currently have 37/13.50/17 Toyo M/T's and it isn't too bad driving around, I just know that I'm driving on borrowed time as it is anyways with a stock D30 with 3.21 in it. But I'm getting these axles for a ridiculous price due to a friend that is just throwing them my way as they are doing atleast 60's for now with 40's.. So what I was thinking is buy the Rubi front and rear axles and install them then flip my stock sport D30 and D44 to a salvage yard or someone in OK that is looking for new ones due to damage or other reasons.

Just to get away from the 3.21 would be nice, since they are very cheap, that alone would save you 1000 in a regear. I mean the 4.10 really isnt ideal but it will work with 37s...well it did for me for a while at least.
 

Tylerself17

New member
Just to get away from the 3.21 would be nice, since they are very cheap, that alone would save you 1000 in a regear. I mean the 4.10 really isnt ideal but it will work with 37s...well it did for me for a while at least.
That's pretty much what I was thinking, it won't cost me hardly anything to go to the Rubicon axles and if I do get tired of them and decide to go to a bigger stronger axle, I won't lose any money if I decide to sell them.
 

hinrichs

Caught the Bug
The only real difference in the rubi 44 front is the ring gear being a little larger, not like it matters to you tho since you will be upgrading down the line anyway.
 

BABOOZLE

Caught the Bug
Haha. I've been pressuring my friend into buying PR 60s so that I can get his Rubicon axles. I've almost got him there but then he said something about buying a house. Lame.
 

Tylerself17

New member
The only real difference in the rubi 44 front is the ring gear being a little larger, not like it matters to you tho since you will be upgrading down the line anyway.
True enough, lol I will be upgrading eventually.. but at the time I am still a broke college student who damn near bankrupts himself everytime I do something to my lovely money pit! Also thinking in the long run if I was to decide to sell the Jeep, it would increase the value of it, as I am taking the Rubicon hood, possibly t-case, leather seats, touch screen nav and whatever else my friend decides she would like to upgrade to have the ultimate jeep! So maybe ill just put the axles on and throw some Rubicon stickers on the hood and be "THAT" guy lol:cheesy:
 

RockyJk

Active Member
Idk what kind of terrain you have where you live but if you're not bombing through the desert those rubi 44's should last you a good while. I'd throw em on if you're getting em really cheap
 

Tylerself17

New member
Idk what kind of terrain you have where you live but if you're not bombing through the desert those rubi 44's should last you a good while. I'd throw em on if you're getting em really cheap
In Oklahoma we have pretty much alittle bit of everything, Mud, Rocks, Sand, Water and they usually mix together wherever you go! Definitely doing the D44's atleast until I have the money to move up to 40's where I really want to be. I feel like if I have 40's it'll definitely let everyone know just how much I "compensate" :cheesy:
 

Peak

New member
Put them in, while they aren't the best axles on the block they are still better than what you're running especially since they have the e lockers. Grubicon was running 40's for a while on rubi 44's and wheeled them pretty hard so I'm sure your 37's will last you until the D60's come your way.
 

Brent McCartney

New member
Well im going to ask, how does the 3.21 turn the 37's? I'm getting mine ready for a 44 and regear, then lift and tires. Just curious. Thanks
 

Tylerself17

New member
Well im going to ask, how does the 3.21 turn the 37's? I'm getting mine ready for a 44 and regear, then lift and tires. Just curious. Thanks

Honestly, I haven't had any problems with them. Everyone said that it would be a dog and wouldn't accelerate to save its life, but I don't think it's too bad! I have the 3.6 and I know that helps, but I also have a flashpaq which makes a dramatic difference in regards to the jeep now knows it has 37's and will shift better and the speedometer is correct now. I have had it all the way up to 117 MPH, which I wouldn't recommend, but it handles perfectly fine! Just has a hard time climbing over objects bigger than a foot or so straight up
 

Brent McCartney

New member
Honestly, I haven't had any problems with them. Everyone said that it would be a dog and wouldn't accelerate to save its life, but I don't think it's too bad! I have the 3.6 and I know that helps, but I also have a flashpaq which makes a dramatic difference in regards to the jeep now knows it has 37's and will shift better and the speedometer is correct now. I have had it all the way up to 117 MPH, which I wouldn't recommend, but it handles perfectly fine! Just has a hard time climbing over objects bigger than a foot or so straight up

Second time I've heard this. There was a local guy running the same set up, had it for sale but sold it before I could test drive it. I had a 90 yj on 35's and beat the piss out of it and never regeared or anything, sold it and the next guy cracked tcase.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
If you are getting them for a good deal go for it. Hell the gear change alone will help a ton. Yes there are stronger axles out there, I replaced my Rubi axles with pr44/pr60 but my friend that bought mine has never had issue. Hell Mel has been running stock Rubi axles on Evolander for years without issue. Maybe he doesn't wheel hard enough? Not everyone has 10k+ to drop on a pr44/60 or 20k+ for pr60/80. You have to decide what works for you.

The rubi 44 has bigger r&p obviously but you also have stronger, higher splined axles (on the inside end) too. The 13+ ones have stronger yet ears at the ujoints, not sure what year your friends are.

That said you just need to know your rig and what your limits are. If you drive knowing those limits you'll be fine. I chose to upgrade mine as at the time it was my dd and I wanted to make sure I could always drive to the trail, drive home and to work the next day
 

Grubbicon

New member
Just to let you know swapping junkyards into a 2014 is a serious pain in the ass because of all the electronics you have to keep.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Just to let you know swapping junkyards into a 2014 is a serious pain in the ass because of all the electronics you have to keep.

With the kits out now from artec and others it actually isn't too bad any more. Kingpin60/14b or newer super duty 60/10.5 can be done without too much heartache. Is not a bolt in but can easily make them work now.
 

Tylerself17

New member
With the kits out now from artec and others it actually isn't too bad any more. Kingpin60/14b or newer super duty 60/10.5 can be done without too much heartache. Is not a bolt in but can easily make them work now.
I have actually looked into doing junkyard axles, my girlfriends dad owns a salvage and has a set of D60's out of an '07 F250 he's willing to sell for $750, the only speed bump now would be cutting off old brackets, getting 8 lug wheels, and welding the Artec kit in.. So for now I think I'm just going to go with the D44's, mainly because mine is a DD and I don't wheel to hard whenever I do for fear of breaking something and having to fork over tons of money to fix it. But I have followed Grubbicon on Instagram for around 2 years now and would love for mine to look like that one day! Just don't think it would look good for a finance major to be declaring bankruptcy for jeep parts.. :broke:
 
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