Unresolved coolant leak

Devallee

Devallee

New member
I've been trying to fix this leak at the thermostat forever now. I have replaced the thermostat housing, hose, and clamps with all OEM parts. I had the screw type clamps on there before which I believed warped the housing causing a leak. However before the housing was warped it was already leaking at the clamp. I was told the OEM style clamps are better because they give constant tension so I replaced those with OEM ones and I'm still getting the leak in the same place. It's coming from the bottom of the clamp and no matter how much I adjust the clamp and hose it still leaks. What else can I do? My only other thought is that maybe I can find another constant tension clamp with a higher PSI rating but I got these from the dealership so I figured they would work. Any input is welcome.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
did you change out the hose or checked the inside for non-smooth surface where it mates to the thermostat housing?
 
Galo

Galo

New member
Hey Deville
As Jeeeep said I'd inspect the hose, replace as necessary. If the hose / housing looks fine, I would remove hose, clean the housing, clean the housing, and then clean the housing, then smear a small amount of the proper sealant, suitable for water pump, on the housing, reinstall the hose after it was clean, clean, clean.
This may sound a bit 'redneck', however I must state, this is a repair I would consider on My Jeep, and add to a list of things to keep an eye on until proven reliable. I would not perform, or offer to perform, on a customers vehicle unless it's recommended by the manufacturer - some new cars have many hoses glued.

Add salt to taste.

G.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
If you've replaced the hose and the housing and the leak is still between those two parts, I would go with an aftermarket screw/worm clamp. But first, indeed make sure both the housing and the hose were the correct parts. It doesn't make any sense if the parts are both new that your leak would be coming from that location unless the leak is coming from somewhere else.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
And I assume you are putting the clamp below the ridged neck on the tstat housing? Not directly on the ridge edge of the neck?
 
USMC Wrangler

USMC Wrangler

New member
Just another thought...since everything is new from the housing up, could you have a crack/chip/un-level surface on the block where the housing bolts on? Seems weird you have the exact same leak with all the newly replaced parts. :twocents:
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
USMC Wrangler said:
Just another thought...since everything is new from the housing up, could you have a crack/chip/un-level surface on the block where the housing bolts on? Seems weird you have the exact same leak with all the newly replaced parts. :twocents:
Click to expand...

I was thinking something along these lines ^^^^^^ too, but he said the leak is where the hose meets the plastic tstat housing, right where the clamp is.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
it may be the angle of the pic but it doesn't look like the hose is far enough on the neck and the clamp is on the ridged portion not below them
 
Devallee

Devallee

New member
Thanks for the help guys but I've tried all of that. New hose, t-stat and clamps. I cleaned the block where the t-stat meets, I've cleaned the hoses and housing and everything. This morning I put on some of the worm style clamps loosely, then started the engine and let it leak and just tightened it enough until it stopped leaking and so far it's working. My only problem with this is that these type of clamps are what have already warped my t-stat housing in the past (this is my 3rd t-stat) so I feel like it's only a matter of time until it happens again. But in the meantime it's working so I'm gonna leave it alone. Thanks for the help!
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Devallee said:
I thought about trying these. Anybody ever heard of them/have reviews or anything? These seem kinda promising and only about $7 a piece at Walmart

http://www.gates.com/products/autom...een-stripe-heavy-duty-constant-tension-clamps
Click to expand...

I've used similar ones (t clamps) but only for air intake components on turbocharged engines. I haven't had experience with cooling systems. They work damn good on air boots though.



Devallee said:
Well the worm type is working I'm just not sure how long until it'll warp the hosing again, if it does. But I'll try em out anyways and see what happens
Click to expand...

Good deal. Hope you're trouble free from here on.
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
Devallee said:
Well the worm type is working I'm just not sure how long until it'll warp the hosing again, if it does. But I'll try em out anyways and see what happens
Click to expand...

Why not get a heavy duty zip tie and get it really tight with a pair of pliers? I know that sounds ridiculous but zip ties are a pretty great invention

Edit: just realized that would do the same thing as the worm clamp
 
Last edited:
H

Hoyt Ag

New member
I went through a similar issue and found it was the 'new' hose I bought that was the problem. Ideally, hoses should be made the same and each the same as the mold, but the first replacement I bought had a slightly different pitch down to the thermostat housing, thus creating tension and leaking no matter what I did. I bought another new hose and upon comparing the two, the second one was a better pitch and it resolved my issue. Just my .02...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom