Yet Another Death Wabble Fix Question

jonnyb19

jonnyb19

New member
I know this has been covered a million time, but I am going to ask any ways. I have the DW and I have a list of parts I'm going to buy to try to fix this. First off, I have a '13 2 door with a 4 inch pro comp lift (was already installed) and only 9K miles. After doing a lot of reading and looking under the jeep, I have discovered that all the original owner did was install the lift. He did not fix the steering geometry nor did he install adjustable control arms or drop brackets for the control arms. I have ran through Planmans list and have found a few problems. One of the boots on the tie rod is destroyed, so I am going to replace that. The track bar bends when the wheel is turned (holes, welds all appear to be fine), there is a clunk in the drag link when the wheel is turned. Below is a list of parts I have and plan to purchase, my question is, am I missing anything?

Already ordered:

Northridge bolt kit
AEV LCA drop bracket
Synergy track bar
Steering stabilizer (I know, not required)


Plan to order:

Yeti Tie Rod
Yeti Top mount drag link flip
New SS mount
Synergy track bar relocation bracket
 
aldaman

aldaman

Member
Start with the basics first and make sure the track bar bolts are torqued to specs (125 ft/lbs)....
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
jonnyb19 said:
I know this has been covered a million time, but I am going to ask any ways. I have the DW and I have a list of parts I'm going to buy to try to fix this. First off, I have a '13 2 door with a 4 inch pro comp lift (was already installed) and only 9K miles. After doing a lot of reading and looking under the jeep, I have discovered that all the original owner did was install the lift. He did not fix the steering geometry nor did he install adjustable control arms or drop brackets for the control arms. I have ran through Planmans list and have found a few problems. One of the boots on the tie rod is destroyed, so I am going to replace that. The track bar bends when the wheel is turned (holes, welds all appear to be fine), there is a clunk in the drag link when the wheel is turned. Below is a list of parts I have and plan to purchase, my question is, am I missing anything?

Already ordered:

Northridge bolt kit
AEV LCA drop bracket
Synergy track bar
Steering stabilizer (I know, not required)


Plan to order:

Yeti Tie Rod
Yeti Top mount drag link flip
New SS mount
Synergy track bar relocation bracket
Click to expand...

Track bar bends? What do you mean? Is it adjustable and maybe the jam nut isn't tightened causing it to rock/move? You have quite a $$$ list here, I would really start by diagnosing what is causing it. You're welcome to replace all these things, but that's a lot of money if that isn't the issue. Also, if you're going to buy the SS anyway, don't put it on yet until your DW is fixed. Otherwise, you'll just hide it making it harder to diagnose. I would have a friend turn steering wheel back and forth with engine running and trans is park, while you look for movement. If nothing has movement, I would make sure tires are properly balanced and caster angle is proper as well.

Drag link clunking, replace it. Tie rod boot torn, replace it, but if joint doesn't have play, the torn boot won't cause your DW.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Don't know what a planman list is, save your money on the bolts, forget the drop brackets and look up the dw thread on here to get you on the right track
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
jonnyb19 said:
I have a '13 2 door with a 4 inch pro comp lift (was already installed) and only 9K miles. After doing a lot of reading and looking under the jeep, I have discovered that all the original owner did was install the lift. He did not fix the steering geometry nor did he install adjustable control arms or drop brackets for the control arms.
Click to expand...

Are you saying that he didn't install all the parts to the lift kit??? I just looked up the kit and it comes with longer fixed arms and adjustable arms. So are you saying he just threw the coils on there and just left the stock control arms on?!?!?
 
Sharkey

Sharkey

Word Ninja
olram30 said:
...save your money on the bolts, forget the drop brackets and look up the dw thread on here to get you on the right track
Click to expand...

^^ This. Plus, replacing a whole bunch of stuff all at once is not going to help you diagnose what is going on and prevent it from happening in the future.

If your are intent on wasting your money on the Northridge bolt package, I have a bridge for sale (or some swampland in Florida if you prefer.)
 
jonnyb19

jonnyb19

New member
WJCO said:
Track bar bends? What do you mean? Is it adjustable and maybe the jam nut isn't tightened causing it to rock/move? You have quite a $$$ list here, I would really start by diagnosing what is causing it. You're welcome to replace all these things, but that's a lot of money if that isn't the issue. Also, if you're going to buy the SS anyway, don't put it on yet until your DW is fixed. Otherwise, you'll just hide it making it harder to diagnose. I would have a friend turn steering wheel back and forth with engine running and trans is park, while you look for movement. If nothing has movement, I would make sure tires are properly balanced and caster angle is proper as well.

Drag link clunking, replace it. Tie rod boot torn, replace it, but if joint doesn't have play, the torn boot won't cause your DW.
Click to expand...

I have done that, that's how I found the clunking and movement in the drag link. I guess flexing is a better word. I don't plan on putting the SS on until it is fixed. I realize the tie rod boot won't effect it, but might as well add it to the list.
 
jonnyb19

jonnyb19

New member
WJCO said:
Are you saying that he didn't install all the parts to the lift kit??? I just looked up the kit and it comes with longer fixed arms and adjustable arms. So are you saying he just threw the coils on there and just left the stock control arms on?!?!?
Click to expand...

He put the 4 inch stage one lift one it. So there is nothing to correct the caster.
 
jonnyb19

jonnyb19

New member
Sharkey said:
^^ This. Plus, replacing a whole bunch of stuff all at once is not going to help you diagnose what is going on and prevent it from happening in the future.

If your are intent on wasting your money on the Northridge bolt package, I have a bridge for sale (or some swampland in Florida if you prefer.)
Click to expand...

Well I know there is a ton of debate on the bolts, maybe I wasted my money there.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
jonnyb19 said:
He put the 4 inch stage one lift one it. So there is nothing to correct the caster.
Click to expand...

So he lifted the Jeep 4 inches with no compensation for caster change..... :thinking: Wow. That may be a major contributor to the DW. Might want to talk to your local coroner before ordering any more parts.
 
jonnyb19

jonnyb19

New member
WJCO said:
So he lifted the Jeep 4 inches with no compensation for caster change..... :thinking: Wow. That may be a major contributor to the DW. Might want to talk to your local coroner before ordering any more parts.
Click to expand...
Correct, he did not. Stock arms, no drop bracket. Jeep came with adjustable LCA in a box, but they were missing parts.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
jonnyb19 said:
I know this has been covered a million time, but I am going to ask any ways. I have the DW and I have a list of parts I'm going to buy to try to fix this. First off, I have a '13 2 door with a 4 inch pro comp lift (was already installed) and only 9K miles. After doing a lot of reading and looking under the jeep, I have discovered that all the original owner did was install the lift. He did not fix the steering geometry nor did he install adjustable control arms or drop brackets for the control arms. I have ran through Planmans list and have found a few problems. One of the boots on the tie rod is destroyed, so I am going to replace that. The track bar bends when the wheel is turned (holes, welds all appear to be fine), there is a clunk in the drag link when the wheel is turned. Below is a list of parts I have and plan to purchase, my question is, am I missing anything?

Already ordered:

Northridge bolt kit
AEV LCA drop bracket
Synergy track bar
Steering stabilizer (I know, not required)


Plan to order:

Yeti Tie Rod
Yeti Top mount drag link flip
New SS mount
Synergy track bar relocation bracket
Click to expand...

well you already ordered items that you don't need so I'm kind of at a loss as to why ask?

Is it the stock track bar or is it adjustable? is there a track bar bracket? if there is a track bar bracket did you check to make sure it's tight? Have you checked caster?

what I would do is loosen the steering stabilizer, loosen the control arm bolts and the track bar bolts while the Jeep is on the ground then give the front end a good jounce (shaking) to get everything settled.

Tighten everything back to specs, check your caster angle, if it is far off you would have been better off with adjustable upper control arms instead of the AEV, if your caster is fine you just wasted money.

I have the synergy track bar and can tell you it will get noisy and depending on your axle side mount, mine required more torque that specified to keep it from moving.

Steering stabilizer you didn't need.

if there's a clunk in the drag link, chances are the adjuster is not in the proper alignment with the pinch bolts so it's not holding like it should.

post up some pics
 
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