Locker question

Cda55

New member
I bought a 2009 rubicon unlimited a few months ago. When i bought it the lockers worked great. After wheeling a couple times my front has stopped working. I am getting 12 volts to it from the relay. I pulled the cover off and hooked 12 volts to it so i could control the voltage and watch it too. When power is applied the disc does move toward the center but it does so very slow and never engages. When power is disconnected it doesnt move back where it should be, Although you can easily push it back. I understand there are no parts for these lockers. Do you guys think it has burrs or trash and just needs to be taken apart and cleaned or has my actuator became weak? I can clearly hear my rear locker engage with a solid pop but the front seems lazy and slow. I also read about shimming the plate so it would engage. Any ideas? This is my first post on the forum here so thanks for having me aboard!!
 

jeeeep

Hooked
I bought a 2009 rubicon unlimited a few months ago. When i bought it the lockers worked great. After wheeling a couple times my front has stopped working. I am getting 12 volts to it from the relay. I pulled the cover off and hooked 12 volts to it so i could control the voltage and watch it too. When power is applied the disc does move toward the center but it does so very slow and never engages. When power is disconnected it doesnt move back where it should be, Although you can easily push it back. I understand there are no parts for these lockers. Do you guys think it has burrs or trash and just needs to be taken apart and cleaned or has my actuator became weak? I can clearly hear my rear locker engage with a solid pop but the front seems lazy and slow. I also read about shimming the plate so it would engage. Any ideas? This is my first post on the forum here so thanks for having me aboard!!

there are 2 relays under the hood, on the fender side near the battery. front and rear locker relays, carefully swap relays and see if that makes a difference.

If it does, you have a bad relay.
 

jeeeep

Hooked
When i use 12 volts at the actuator it bypasses the relays.

oh my bad, I see you did say you applied 12v directly.

can you take some pics?

btw you can replace the actuator and locker sensor, I've never done it so can't tell you if it requires the carrier to be removed.

hopefully someone who has dealt with it may jump on here soon.
 
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Cda55

New member
Where can i buy the actuator and sensor? I have no problems removing the carrier and replacing the parts if i can buy them. Im going to pull it apart tomorrow and will take pics and video of how it works.
 

jeeeep

Hooked
Where can i buy the actuator and sensor? I have no problems removing the carrier and replacing the parts if i can buy them. Im going to pull it apart tomorrow and will take pics and video of how it works.

quadtratec, stevewhiteparts.com

I've found stevewhiteparts are cheaper (same mopar oem) and they'll match the part to your vin
 

Cda55

New member
I have the diff out. Pulled the bearing and cleaned it up. I have .11 of throw on the actuator. My springs all feel ok. However the actuator is kinda hard to push the collar back in. The springs cant do it. I am going to try to clean the actuator up so the collar slides back in easier. In order to get the plate all the way down i would need twice the throw it has now. Should i shim it? Nothings seems broken at all. Everything moves freely. Any ideas? Do the springs push the actuator back in when its turned off? I looked at the rear through the oil hole and it pops out when its turned off.
 

Cda55

New member
After reading some more it seems the inner sleeve that pushes out is worn. I read about shimming it but im unsure where the shim goes. Does it need to be welded or does it float?
 
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