Built one ton question.
- Thread starter jkodak
- Start date
Exodus 4x4
New member
I just pulled the trigger on a PR44, opting to reuse all my stock components in a heavier built Dana 44 housing rather than "beef up" my factory. I'll be regearing again so I'll swap the axle myself and have them put the guts back in. A local shop tried to talk me into installing sleeves and gussets but I'd rather put that money towards a PR44.
When the day comes to do an LS conversion I'll upgrade to the 60's as well, but that's a long ways off so I'll have plenty of time to save up.
When the day comes to do an LS conversion I'll upgrade to the 60's as well, but that's a long ways off so I'll have plenty of time to save up.
jkwebbie
New member
If you have the tools to do it, go with the 1 tons. Artec makes a truss swap kit to swap in the Ford Dana 60 front and Sterling 10.5 rear.
Grubbicon, hhunter and myself are all going this route over the Dynatrac 44 front.
This way is more time consuming than just ordering from Dynatrac because they do all the heavy work for you, all you have to do is bolt it up into the Jeep. Plus I know a lot of people will say stuff like "Dynatrac comes with a warranty" which is true, but its only for like a year, which too me, doesn't make it worth the cost. Dynatrac makes a damn good axle, but if I can swap out 2 bigger axles for the same price as their 1, it just doesn't make sense to me.
That's just my .02 bud
Grubbicon, hhunter and myself are all going this route over the Dynatrac 44 front.
This way is more time consuming than just ordering from Dynatrac because they do all the heavy work for you, all you have to do is bolt it up into the Jeep. Plus I know a lot of people will say stuff like "Dynatrac comes with a warranty" which is true, but its only for like a year, which too me, doesn't make it worth the cost. Dynatrac makes a damn good axle, but if I can swap out 2 bigger axles for the same price as their 1, it just doesn't make sense to me.
That's just my .02 bud
thardy
Banned
Check out Grubbicon's build thread on here. He is currently in the process of putting a front D60 and Sterling 10.5 in the rear. Depending on what tire size you're wanting to run, going PR44 and keeping the rear 44 is probably the cheaper route.
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
It depends on what size tires you want to run. If your going 40's then doing a pr60 f/r would be the better way to go. If staying 37's or less than the stock rear with a pr44 front would suit you well.
jkodak
New member
Yes, the prorock route would be just a bit cheaper. But I budgeted a front and rear swap, with artec truss swap, it's a bit more money, but I fear I will get this swap done, and need additional upgrades to make the rig drive comfortable. Steering issues... Etc. any thoughts? Or am I worrying for nothing?
jkodak
New member
I agree... the sterling rear end supposedly hits the gas tank from what I've read. so will i need to order a 2 door gas tank? or try to find a 14bolt rear instead of the sterling?
jkwebbie
New member
I'm not 100% sure, but I'm thinking the 14 bolt will too, plus you need to shave the bottom of it since it hangs down so much. But if I were you, I would just find a 2 door gas tank from a junkyard or something.
Grubbicon
New member
A couple things I realized I forgot to say in the PM is that the 14b is normally a few inches skinnier and for the people that may be wanted or not. Also as far as tank goes Ive guys say some aftermarket yokes will clear. Im not really sure if mine will or not yet but I think im going to try denting mine for clearance first since my tank is already in pretty poor shape.