35s or just jump into 37s

DasBuxxx

DasBuxxx

New member
I will start by saying that I know 37s are no small undertaking.

I am going to have the opportunity to do some work on the jeep and perform a full suspension upgrade. I want to get to 37 eventually and am interested if the step to 35s along the way would be a needed one (funds for parts specifically). I am willing to make the stop at 35s in the interest of keeping things done the right way.

I'll start with what I have now. A 2012 jku with an LSD, 3.21 gears, 44 in the back and a 30 up front. I am running 33s on it now with 16in wheels and cut flairs. That is it...I know that even in going to 35s it is in my best interest to re-gear as I am already downshifting. This is the main reason I ask myself "just do a PR 44 up front at the time of re-gear and ...37s?!"

I am not looking at going into the coil over systems yet, though that is an option further down the line. I do realize that geometry will change at the 37 height and a front 44 might be in my best interest.

I am open to thoughts and proposed shopping lists for either set up (35s or 37s)


PS just transfered to middle Tennessee so any suggestions on places to wheel would be greatly appreciated too :)
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Just ask yourself how long will it be till you make the next step. And be realistic. Get the pr44 and 37s now is easy to say as its your money. Lol. If in the next year you plan to upgrade just do it once. If you want to regear and wait several years maybe it makes sense. Going from 3.21s to higher gear ratio you probably need a new carrier too. Now you are in for 1k. Def not to a pr44 but you'll never get that money back later it off your 30.
 
Pyro1415

Pyro1415

New member
Gecko makes a good point. How much life do your 33s have, can you afford to wait an extra few months for funds?
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
Yep, going to 37s, the right way, will cost some money. With 35s, you want to look into c-gussets, and a regear. And I believe you will have to get a new carrier as mentioned above. If I had to guess, ballpark for tires (5), gearing, gussets, and carrier (balance, welding, labor, tax, etc) $3500. 35s should do you well, depending on how and where you wheel. But, if money isn't an issue, 37s and a pr44...
 
DasBuxxx

DasBuxxx

New member
I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that thinks this way :)

I am think the same thing on the 30, why beef it if I won't make it back and I can put a 44 on it and not have to think much more about it with the type of runs I do. I am not a rock crawler by any means but like a trail I have the potential to get stuck on.

The 33s are at a point that I don't need to question them for a good 3 to 4 months. Thus, the serious planning starts now.

The real question is if I throw 37s, and a PR 44 on the front, new gears. What else am I looking at and what lift do I go with.

I have a dynomax evo on it so I am not sure if the drive shaft is mandatory or not to replace.
 
Eezybreezy08

Eezybreezy08

New member
It all just comes down to money. I have 35s with 4:88 with my 08 sport. In other words, I have the 30 in the front and 44 in the rear. And it will be like that for me for awhile. I would love 37s. But it will be years before I can ever afford a pr44. So that's why everyone says it's in the money. If you can afford it, I would absolutely do pr44 front and 37. But with 4 kids I'm broke. Now there is nothing wrong with my 35. I get around just fine. Just not obviously as good as someone with 37s or 40s with pr44 or 60 and lockers. So make the best decision that fits you. All of these guys are smart on this site and you can pretty much get any kind of info on whatever it is with jeeps. So other than that, whatever you have the money for is technically your only limit
 
DasBuxxx

DasBuxxx

New member
JK LYF said:
Yep, going to 37s, the right way, will cost some money. With 35s, you want to look into c-gussets, and a regear. And I believe you will have to get a new carrier as mentioned above. If I had to guess, ballpark for tires (5), gearing, gussets, and carrier (balance, welding, labor, tax, etc) $3500. 35s should do you well, depending on how and where you wheel. But, if money isn't an issue, 37s and a pr44...
Click to expand...

Been saving for a good amount of time, and just thinking in long term cost. My thought would be that if I do it in two stages it would end up being more than ripping the bandaid off now...and on the other hand who does not want to stay true to what jeep really stands for Just Empty Every Pocket
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
DasBuxxx said:
Been saving for a good amount of time, and just thinking in long term cost. My thought would be that if I do it in two stages it would end up being more than ripping the bandaid off now...and on the other hand who does not want to stay true to what jeep really stands for Just Empty Every Pocket
Click to expand...

Yer correct! Two stages will cost more, but it doesn't necessarily make it wrong. Quite a few people do mods in stages. Good luck and keep us posted on your decision...
 
DemCoconuts

DemCoconuts

New member
I was in a similar debate - throw 35's on the D30/44 combo in my 09 JK, or make do with what I have until I can set myself up for success with D60's and 37's (or bigger).

After a lot of thought, I'm going with the later option. I wanted 37's before I got the Jeep anyways.

The way I'm looking at it now is you can either save the money and do it the way you want once (even if it is more expensive up front), or you can piece it together slowly and end up in the same place, just with more parts and money spent.

My vote goes to spending the money all at once if you can afford it, that way you have the setup you'll want in the end anyways. Hard to swallow putting out that much money sometimes, but it's the way I'll be doing things going forward.
 
GregMort13

GregMort13

Caught the Bug
DasBuxxx said:
I will start by saying that I know 37s are no small undertaking.

I am going to have the opportunity to do some work on the jeep and perform a full suspension upgrade. I want to get to 37 eventually and am interested if the step to 35s along the way would be a needed one (funds for parts specifically). I am willing to make the stop at 35s in the interest of keeping things done the right way.

I'll start with what I have now. A 2012 jku with an LSD, 3.21 gears, 44 in the back and a 30 up front. I am running 33s on it now with 16in wheels and cut flairs. That is it...I know that even in going to 35s it is in my best interest to re-gear as I am already downshifting. This is the main reason I ask myself "just do a PR 44 up front at the time of re-gear and ...37s?!"

I am not looking at going into the coil over systems yet, though that is an option further down the line. I do realize that geometry will change at the 37 height and a front 44 might be in my best interest.

I am open to thoughts and proposed shopping lists for either set up (35s or 37s)


PS just transfered to middle Tennessee so any suggestions on places to wheel would be greatly appreciated too :)
Click to expand...

4" evo enforcer w/ ranchos ~$1,800-2,000 (labor?)
Drag link flip kit ~$250-300
Tires ~1,600-2,000
C Gussets ~$60-250 (labor?)
Regear 5.13s ~$1,000-1,500

Prorock eventually? ~$2,000-3,000
17" Rims or Bead Locks? ~$1,000-2,000

Bare minimum being realistic your looking at least 5k
 
allwhitejeeps

allwhitejeeps

New member
All up to you. Everything everyone has said is true and it is all up to your preference in the end. For me, going with 35's, but preparing myself for 37's was the better option. But, the expense of 37's right out of the bat for me was too much and at the time I could not wheel my jeep to make use of the expense. Still If I was to do it again I would wish I could go to 37's first, but for me it was a better option to work my way up.
 
Pursesnatcher

Pursesnatcher

New member
After reading the conversation, I believe you may be better off doing a 35in setup and over time building the rig with components which would complete a 37in setup

Maybe get a set of 35s, long arm lift and a regear. Then plan out your build so over the next year you can add parts that will prepare the setup for 37s. After a ton of reading, and being curious about the same question my self, the only way to do 37's is to do it the right way.

Start with 35s and build what you need over time, you'll have higher quality parts and could ensure longevity and stay cost effective for the build.

Also, you could realize that you don't need anything more than a 35 and keep it. I'm in the greater Nashville area my self, and can say that a 35 would suffice for the majority of the trails in TN and surrounding states
 
DMF

DMF

Active Member
For me having 37" tires would be awesome but waiting a few years to save up for new axle, tires, regear and putting lockers on isn't cheap and I'm not going to wait that long to not be able to go have some fun on the trails with friends. So I did 35" tires, regear and lockers in the rear and gusset the front and now I can join my friends on most of the trails without slowing the group down. If I decide to keep my Jeep then I have plenty of time to save up for new axle and if I decide to trade it for the next generation wrangler, at least I've had my fun with it.
 
jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
DMF said:
For me having 37" tires would be awesome but waiting a few years to save up for new axle, tires, regear and putting lockers on isn't cheap and I'm not going to wait that long to not be able to go have some fun on the trails with friends. So I did 35" tires, regear and lockers in the rear and gusset the front and now I can join my friends on most of the trails without slowing the group down. If I decide to keep my Jeep then I have plenty of time to save up for new axle and if I decide to trade it for the next generation wrangler, at least I've had my fun with it.
Click to expand...

This is my situation exactly, Fixing the house diverted some of the funds I was saving for a PR44 so, I C-gusseted front, regeared and put a locker on my rear, I don't see myself running 37s for a while as it is my DD and I spend a lot of time on the road going to customers and frankly burning through $2000+ of MT Rubber on the blacktop is not my idea of fun so I'm moving to 35's and slowly saving for my next step in upgrades, yes it will end up being more expensive, but I won't be seeing my friends wheel while I just get to mall crawl waiting to upgrade
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
DMF said:
For me having 37" tires would be awesome but waiting a few years to save up for new axle, tires, regear and putting lockers on isn't cheap and I'm not going to wait that long to not be able to go have some fun on the trails with friends. So I did 35" tires, regear and lockers in the rear and gusset the front and now I can join my friends on most of the trails without slowing the group down. If I decide to keep my Jeep then I have plenty of time to save up for new axle and if I decide to trade it for the next generation wrangler, at least I've had my fun with it.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. Great advice.
 
Speeddmn

Speeddmn

New member
I'll see if I can break it down for you on the decision. Just remember this is all from quick google searches and I in no way am trying to tell you to go toward one or the other. These will just be a few options to look at.

To go from stock(ish) to 35's:

Tires: Nitto TG 35/12.5/17, 1600
Wheels: 200 a piece for Beadlocks, 1000
Lift/Budget Boost: Evo 3" Enforcer, 2000, BB would be 200 if installed yourself.
Drive shaft (if required): 500 a piece (various places, average price)
Gears: Done at ORE or TrailJeeps, 1000, other shops 2000 (average)
Carrier: 100-200 bucks, various places online
Axel upgrades: if you keep the Dana 30, 1000 with labor average.

So to keep the Dana 30 and wheel with 35's will be around 7-8k bucks.... A couple things to change on this set up and 37's are attainable.

Ditch the 30, get a Rubi 44 take off (1500 ish), hopefully the locker is still in it. So take the 8k and remove the cost of sleeves, truss etc on axel upgrades add in 200 for c gussets on the 44 that along with the carrier saves you the 1000 bucks now. Makes sense?

Take the same list but add a PR44 and 37's
PR44: 2500-3000 on average set up loaded and ready!
Tires: Nitto TG 37's, 1800
Wheels: Same as above, 2000
Lift: Same as above, 2000
Drive Shafts: Same as above, 1000
Gears: Only need the rear done now! 500

This will total out to 10500 on the high side. Deals are out there and can be found. Also a rear drive shaft isn't usually required but a front is highly recommended. And if you want to do it right, do it right then. Also you can go much higher end and spend 4-8k on just the lift and associated components... Or chop the fenders, do a budget boost, run spacers on the stock wheels, and run some short BFG 37's.... Wallets the limit!
 
BLK HULK

BLK HULK

New member
Our 2013 jku, was new and had about 2500km on it when we did an AEV 4.5 and 37 Toyo open country MT's.
It had 3:73's so anything with a hill 6th gear was nonexistent, but anything above 120km and 6th gear was good.
We never had an issue from day one. Even now at 60000km the ball joint still don't have to be changed.

Just in the past month we've added some strength to the axles, sleeved front, gussets, truss, and gears. Also through in a rear ARB locker and rear truss to the mix.
now we have upgraded to 40's so I wanted some support for that.

We drove this thing hard on the trails, always challenging the jeep with not one issue.

And still running stock driveshafts.
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Speeddmn said:
I'll see if I can break it down for you on the decision. Just remember this is all from quick google searches and I in no way am trying to tell you to go toward one or the other. These will just be a few options to look at.

To go from stock(ish) to 35's:

Tires: Nitto TG 35/12.5/17, 1600
Wheels: 200 a piece for Beadlocks, 1000
Lift/Budget Boost: Evo 3" Enforcer, 2000, BB would be 200 if installed yourself.
Drive shaft (if required): 500 a piece (various places, average price)
Gears: Done at ORE or TrailJeeps, 1000, other shops 2000 (average)
Carrier: 100-200 bucks, various places online
Axel upgrades: if you keep the Dana 30, 1000 with labor average.

So to keep the Dana 30 and wheel with 35's will be around 7-8k bucks.... A couple things to change on this set up and 37's are attainable.

Ditch the 30, get a Rubi 44 take off (1500 ish), hopefully the locker is still in it. So take the 8k and remove the cost of sleeves, truss etc on axel upgrades add in 200 for c gussets on the 44 that along with the carrier saves you the 1000 bucks now. Makes sense?

Take the same list but add a PR44 and 37's
PR44: 2500-3000 on average set up loaded and ready!
Tires: Nitto TG 37's, 1800
Wheels: Same as above, 2000
Lift: Same as above, 2000
Drive Shafts: Same as above, 1000
Gears: Only need the rear done now! 500

This will total out to 10500 on the high side. Deals are out there and can be found. Also a rear drive shaft isn't usually required but a front is highly recommended. And if you want to do it right, do it right then. Also you can go much higher end and spend 4-8k on just the lift and associated components... Or chop the fenders, do a budget boost, run spacers on the stock wheels, and run some short BFG 37's.... Wallets the limit!
Click to expand...

Or keep an eye out for used parts. There are always people upgrading from 37s to bigger too. Frequently see used 37s for half of new. Same for beadlocks, etc. Dont know where your finding the 2500-3000 for a PR44 but the rest is about right. Used you can save 25-50% of what's listed above. But you often need to keep an eye out and act fast.
 
Speeddmn

Speeddmn

New member
13_gecko_rubi said:
Or keep an eye out for used parts. There are always people upgrading from 37s to bigger too. Frequently see used 37s for half of new. Same for beadlocks, etc. Dont know where your finding the 2500-3000 for a PR44 but the rest is about right. Used you can save 25-50% of what's listed above. But you often need to keep an eye out and act fast.
Click to expand...

As I mentioned I was making a quick list, I didnt go to every site or email/PM vendors for quotes. I simply googled PR44 in the shopping tab and the first one up was 2300 ish. Didnt even click on it, figured 700 to add upgraded axles, arb, plus get a better quote from a forum vendor.
 
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