dana 30 to dana 44 up front and have some question please advice and Help.

A

Ali

Member
Hello Jeepers
i need to know some information from experts here
for non extreme off roader my dana 30 Holds some abuse after c gussets and truss kit but keeps blowing internal ring and pinion or spider gears if i push too hard with 37'' tires
what i look forward is i need to buy a better front axle and i am looking for dana 44 front axle thats why i have some questions
1- will it fit my JKU 2010 unlimited sport with no modifications? same OEM mounts?
2- as the ring and pinion and shafts are bigger & better and case have diff lock i am interested if i can run the locker by applying 12 volt to the coil and leave the locker sensor alone
3- will it hold 5.13 ratio because i run 5.13 on my 2010 front dana 30 with small crown and pinion and 5.13 on the rear dana 44
4- will the shafts be same for knuckle and fit other dana 30 components just like wheel bearings i mean is it 30 spline or 27 or the outers are same for rubicon shafts and non rubicon are same on the bearing side?
5- any other tips
thanks in advance.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Simple answer. Get a prorock 44 from Dynatrac and call it a day. A Dana 44 is only a Dana 30 with a bigger pumpkin.
 
jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
Ali said:
Hello Jeepers
i need to know some information from experts here
for non extreme off roader my dana 30 Holds some abuse after c gussets and truss kit but keeps blowing internal ring and pinion or spider gears if i push too hard with 37'' tires
what i look forward is i need to buy a better front axle and i am looking for dana 44 front axle thats why i have some questions
1- will it fit my JKU 2010 unlimited sport with no modifications? same OEM mounts?
2- as the ring and pinion and shafts are bigger & better and case have diff lock i am interested if i can run the locker by applying 12 volt to the coil and leave the locker sensor alone
3- will it hold 5.13 ratio because i run 5.13 on my 2010 front dana 30 with small crown and pinion and 5.13 on the rear dana 44
4- will the shafts be same for knuckle and fit other dana 30 components just like wheel bearings i mean is it 30 spline or 27 or the outers are same for rubicon shafts and non rubicon are same on the bearing side?
5- any other tips
thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

1)Most Aftermarket 44's like Dynatrac, and G2 are built to fit the JK as bolt ins
2)I'm not entirely sure what you are asking since you have a sport, are you refering to buying a RUbicon 44 axle?
3)Running 5.13's on a D30 is the main reason you keep blowing Rings and pinions, it's way too small on a D30 at 5.13
4) Outers are reused on most aftermarket axle purchases
 
Z

zerorex

New member
cozdude said:
Simple answer. Get a prorock 44 from Dynatrac and call it a day. A Dana 44 is only a Dana 30 with a bigger pumpkin.
Click to expand...

Ive been doing crazy amounts of research on this topic for almost a year and have spoken to several shops for my inevitable $13k upgrade. I have a 2015 sport and i'd 100% agree with cozdude. You can order it on northridge and they'll even install the lockers, ball joints, geared to what you want, yoke and knuckles to what you want. Just keep in mind if your drive shafts is stock for 37's you should upgrade them as well.

The dana 30 will work..but the amount of money youd invest to keep it going (RCV axle shafts i'm looking at you) your better off buying the pr44 axle.

If it helps my axles are dana 30 front and 44 back and ill be upgrading with the following parts for 37's:

Synergy Manufacturing Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Nitto Trail Grappler M/T 37/12.5r17 (These are just the tires I want get whatever you want)
Artec D44 Rear Truss (Reinforce the back axle. This all depends on the type of wheeling you do. If you have the funds just upgrade to a PR60 for the rear. I dont so truss it is!)
Tom Woods Rear 1310 Drive Shaft
Tom Woods Front 1310 Drive Shaft
ProRock 44™ Unlimited Front Axle for Jeep JK 5.13

For the prorock here's the configuration im after (Arb Air Locker/ Dynatrac Ball Joints/ 5.13 Gear Ratio/ RCV Axle Shafts/ 1310 Yoke / Reid Racing Knuckles/ Stock Track Bar Bracket)

If you are not installing it yourself be sure to check with your shop as they may require you to purchase it through them rather than bringing it in. I live in NY and the best shop around here is OK4WD and they require me to purchase the axle through them if I want them to bolt it in FYI :)

Hope this helps!
 
Last edited:
Heholua

Heholua

Member
zerorex said:
Ive been doing crazy amounts of research on this topic for almost a year and have spoken to several shops for my inevitable $13k upgrade. I have a 2015 sport and i'd 100% agree with cozdude. You can order it on northridge and they'll even install the lockers, ball joints, geared to what you want, yoke and knuckles to what you want. Just keep in mind if your drive shafts is stock for 37's you should upgrade them as well.

The dana 30 will work..but the amount of money youd invest to keep it going (RCV axle shafts i'm looking at you) your better off buying the pr44 axle.

If it helps my axles are dana 30 front and 44 back and ill be upgrading with the following parts for 37's:

Synergy Manufacturing Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Nitto Trail Grappler M/T 37/12.5r17 (These are just the tires I want get whatever you want)
Artec D44 Rear Truss (Reinforce the back axle. This all depends on the type of wheeling you do. If you have the funds just upgrade to a PR60 for the rear. I dont so truss it is!)
Tom Woods Rear 1310 Drive Shaft
Tom Woods Front 1310 Drive Shaft
ProRock 44™ Unlimited Front Axle for Jeep JK 5.13

For the prorock here's the configuration im after (Arb Air Locker/ Dynatrac Ball Joints/ 5.13 Gear Ratio/ RCV Axle Shafts/ 1310 Yoke / Reid Racing Knuckles/ Stock Track Bar Bracket)

If you are not installing it yourself be sure to check with your shop as they may require you to purchase it through them rather than bringing it in. I live in NY and the best shop around here is OK4WD and they require me to purchase the axle through them if I want them to bolt it in FYI :)

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

It's obviously your money and spend it how you see fit, but you really don't need the Reid Racing Knuckles(your stock ones will transfer over) and RCV shafts are over rated for the money. As for the track bar bracket, I would have them weld on a bracket for a lift.
 
JTPhoto JK

JTPhoto JK

New member
The other option is the Mopar Performance D44HD J8 housing. Much more affordable and it does take the the D30 knuckles.
 
jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
JTPhoto JK said:
The best price can be had at Moparoverstock. They list at $865 for the housing.. I purchased mine directly from my local Jeep dealer..
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Now I see where you get $900, it's just the empty housing, If I wanted that, I could get a G2 Core 44 for $300 extra, but then again, seeing as how I would be moving from a D30 trying to sell this idea to me for $900 is kinda bullshit since I still have about an extra $2500 in gears, Locker and shafts missing. Still not seeing how mopar is "helping us" with a budget option here...
 
mds22

mds22

New member
jorgelrod said:
Now I see where you get $900, it's just the empty housing, If I wanted that, I could get a G2 Core 44 for $300 extra, but then again, seeing as how I would be moving from a D30 trying to sell this idea to me for $900 is kinda bullshit since I still have about an extra $2500 in gears, Locker and shafts missing. Still not seeing how mopar is "helping us" with a budget option here...
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It doesn't help you. Even after buying gears/shafts used, but the time you get a quality locker and pay labor you are near the create axle price $2600. If upgrading the d30, $2600 is not bad for a created d44 compared to what people use to try to sell them used. But it would be hard to justify spending my money on something I probably should be upgrading anyways. I'd rather keep saving, add 2k more, and have a nice built PR44.
 
JTPhoto JK

JTPhoto JK

New member
mds22 said:
It doesn't help you. Even after buying gears/shafts used, but the time you get a quality locker and pay labor you are near the create axle price $2600. If upgrading the d30, $2600 is not bad for a created d44 compared to what people use to try to sell them used. But it would be hard to justify spending my money on something I probably should be upgrading anyways. I'd rather keep saving, add 2k more, and have a nice built PR44.
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Wow, Where are you guys get this price of $2500 for a Core44 complete. I would have saved myself a lot of work had I been able to Get that.. The best price I could find for a Core44 was $3699 with a Truetrack, 5.38 G2 gears, and Gold axles. I got the D44HD housing for approx $900, $1,100 for the OX locker, $335 for axles, and $200 Yukon gears and bearings. I put it all together myself.
 
StickFish

StickFish

New member
Heholua said:
It's obviously your money and spend it how you see fit, but you really don't need the Reid Racing Knuckles(your stock ones will transfer over) and RCV shafts are over rated for the money. As for the track bar bracket, I would have them weld on a bracket for a lift.
Click to expand...

Agree-that's the route I am going!
 
jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
StickFish said:
Agree-that's the route I am going!
Click to expand...

Nobody said $2500 for a Core 44, but $2500 buys you a Regular Rubicon 44 Crate axle at Mopar which is why I find absurd that the same axle with just a little thicker tube is on sale for $3700

Hell, You can achieve that by putting inner sleeves for $80 even if it's not an entire apples to apples comparison
 
mds22

mds22

New member
JTPhoto JK said:
Wow, Where are you guys get this price of $2500 for a Core44 complete. I would have saved myself a lot of work had I been able to Get that.. The best price I could find for a Core44 was $3699 with a Truetrack, 5.38 G2 gears, and Gold axles. I got the D44HD housing for approx $900, $1,100 for the OX locker, $335 for axles, and $200 Yukon gears and bearings. I put it all together myself.
Click to expand...

Please re read my post.
 
JTPhoto JK

JTPhoto JK

New member
jorgelrod said:
Nobody said $2500 for a Core 44, but $2500 buys you a Regular Rubicon 44 Crate axle at Mopar which is why I find absurd that the same axle with just a little thicker tube is on sale for $3700

Hell, You can achieve that by putting inner sleeves for $80 even if it's not an entire apples to apples comparison
Click to expand...

Where did $3700 come from. I built mine with an OX locker and Yukon gears complete for $2500 US.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
jorgelrod said:
Nobody said $2500 for a Core 44, but $2500 buys you a Regular Rubicon 44 Crate axle at Mopar which is why I find absurd that the same axle with just a little thicker tube is on sale for $3700

Hell, You can achieve that by putting inner sleeves for $80 even if it's not an entire apples to apples comparison
Click to expand...

Can you explain how sleeves make the tubes thicker. The tubes are still the same size.
 
JTPhoto JK

JTPhoto JK

New member
That particular ad looks like the version marketed by Spicer as they call it the Ultimate .. But you are correct there, at that price you may as well get a Core44. I have not come across a complete HD unit direct from Mopar performance.
 
jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
OverlanderJK said:
Can you explain how sleeves make the tubes thicker. The tubes are still the same size.
Click to expand...

What I meant to say is that a 2" tube that is 5/16 thick is pretty much the same as the regular 44 tube, plus the inner sleeve in thickness

I'm not sure if I explained myself correctly the first time
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
jorgelrod said:
What I meant to say is that a 2" tube that is 5/16 thick is pretty much the same as the regular 44 tube, plus the inner sleeve in thickness

I'm not sure if I explained myself correctly the first time
Click to expand...

It's really not the same thing. Not even close to the same thing. But whatever floats your boat.
 
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