Flex question

NastyNate

NastyNate

Member
a little info before my question ...ultimately i would like to run an enforcer lift an 35's, but my budget will not allow the re-gearing and gussets and few other things needed to properly run 35's worry free...so i will be running a 2.5 bb and 33" mud grapplers.


Ok on to my question ...with a 2.5 bb it requires bumpstops to run 35's but if you run 33's they are not required and i assume flex is more of what we want ...correct? and not running the extended bumpstops would the driveshaft need to be addressed and the brake lines?
thanks for your help
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
NastyNate said:
a little info before my question ...ultimately i would like to run an enforcer lift an 35's, but my budget will not allow the re-gearing and gussets and few other things needed to properly run 35's worry free...so i will be running a 2.5 bb and 33" mud grapplers.


Ok on to my question ...with a 2.5 bb it requires bumpstops to run 35's but if you run 33's they are not required and i assume flex is more of what we want ...correct? and not running the extended bumpstops would the driveshaft need to be addressed and the brake lines?
thanks for your help
Click to expand...

You still need to run the proper bump stop length. This is because you don't want your coils to go solid. If they do go solid they will sag quicker and sooner rather than later not return to their proper extended length.

I strongly suggest you do the gussets before anything! You can bend your C's with stock tires. For $60 plus welding labor it really is worth it.

That leads me to tire size. I suggest you get 35's and just deal with the lack of gearing now instead of spending money on 33's and not being happy. To run 35's worry free all you need is the gussets but you should have that done before hand. Other than that everything else associated with 35's is a bonus and not needed up front.
 
mudmobeeler

mudmobeeler

Caught the Bug
You can run 35s on the 2.5 inch budget boost. I would look for one that is a fairly complete kit like the one teraflex offers. It comes with most of what you need. Another option would be something like the EVO level kit or the Rancho sport kit. They both replace the front springs which is handy if you have or plan to have a aftermarket front bumper and or winch. At the 2.5 inches you will not need a new front driveshaft as long as your shocks aren't too long and allow the front axle to travel down too far.

While I have no experience, I have heard good things about the EVO Enforcer lifts and I plan on getting one soon. At the 3 inches of lift, it is recommended for a new front driveshaft and a drag link flip kit. So those are more money on top of the lift.

If you want 35s get 35s and save for the re-gear. You will regret the 33s.
 
NastyNate

NastyNate

Member
thanks guys i really appreciate it ....ill call around and get quotes on the c gussets...did they remove your ball joints to do it?
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
NastyNate said:
thanks guys i really appreciate it ....ill call around and get quotes on the c gussets...did they remove your ball joints to do it?
Click to expand...

Nope, no need to remove them as long as the welder takes his time and moves from one side to the next and welds in small incriminates
 
P

psmith

New member
Recently did c-gussets. No need to remove ball joints but it would be nice to remove the springs so that you can get total welding access. A wet rag on the joints helps and welding in 1" increments switching sides in between is the ticket.

Agree on the 33's. I'd probably skip the BB and just run Rubi takeoffs if the budget is tight. If you want an Enforcer, just piece it together as Evo sells the parts separately.
That way you won't be going backwards on parts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom