REVIEW: JKU 2014 going 3.21 to 4.56 with 33"

redex

New member
So I went to 4.56 gears recently and wanted to provide a review. This is my specific results from my Jeep so I hope people don’t hold it against me if their results differ.

Original setup:
14 Jeep JKU Sport 3.6L AT
3.21 Gears
Offroad lights, Bumpers, Defender Roof Rack,
33” KO2 Tires, specifically 285/75R16 which hold a 32.75 ish diameter (No flashcal at this point)
1.75” front coil spacer.

New Setup:
4.56 G2 gears, same 30/44 axles
Same tires and accessories but added a .75” rear coil spacer.
Superchips Flashcal to set tire size and gear ratio.

My findings:
MPG
Prior to the new gears I had burned through 3-4 tanks of gas, only running about 14.5-15MPG (calculated 2% up to compensate for tire size change). After the regear and setting tires, I’ve been running 17-18MPG under the same driving conditions. Relatively flat, daily driver, stop and go rush hour traffics and late night outings)

I believe the main reason for this large change in MPG has to do with why I re-geared in the first place. I’ve found that adding the very HEAVY KO2 and mainly the increase to 33” tires was destroying the balance of the jeep. It had a most difficult time utilizing the 5th gear and I would either force it to 4th or just mash on the gas. Even while giving it a lot of gas, the RPMs would NOT go up. It was causing me a lot of stress on my knees and legs after a while, mainly because of the traffic and refusal to REV.

Also, to note is the general MPG reducers such as the 150+lb front bumper, and incredibly non-aerodynamic roof rack was the blame as well.

Now, the Jeep has NO problem holding 5th gear and the need to downshift has disappeared, however in it’s place is high revs. However, although the 3.6L is reving in the 2600 to 2900RPM range during high way speeds of 65-75MPH fuel economy has improved. Like I’ve read from a few other posts, it seems that the Pentastar engine favors and performs the best above 2k RPMs.

Power
Power is also a great gain as there is a noticeable change in all bands of gears. It’s great that it’s shorter and I look forward to testing how it performs on the trails. One thing to note however, is that with my current setup I’ve basically lost the option to reasonably cruise at speeds over 75MPH. I’ve noticed that the jump between 73MPH to 80MPH requires RPMs to hit 3k and also the aerodynamic hit is very steep. I could easily hit 80-85MPH and hold it, it will just drain the tank.

Conclusions:
I think that in all aspects going to the 4.56 gears was incredibly beneficial. However it did cost $1800 (material, labor, superchips, coil spacers). Was this a reasonable trade off? At my current financial situation it wasn’t too bad. ESPECIALLY considering I wanted to go 34” or 35” tires within the next few years. However, if I could do it again, I would get a superchips first to program the 33” tires in correct with the 3.21 before deciding to regear.

I also think, if you don’t plan on doing 35”+ tires, do NOT go to the 4.88 or higher gears, I think the RPMs at 70-75MPH would REV way to high. Unless you had a dedicated rig and not a daily driver, it would be a pretty steep hit across all the bands of transmission.

If you’re really concerned about MPG do NOT get a roof rack. On a daily driver I found it to be the most detrimental on fuel economy than any incremental upgrade I’ve done so far. K&N air filters also don’t do a spec of change to fuel economy and will only save you money if you keep reusing them. I can’t comment on CAI, but I doubt besides sounding awesome it will do much. (Although there’s probably some clear evidence sounding more powerful will psychologically make you feel +9HP)

I haven’t taken photos with the added .75” rears but here’s a few pics.
IMG_0881 - Copy.jpg IMG_0882.jpg IMG_0883.jpg IMG_0888.jpg
 

WJCO

Meme King
Great pics and good write up. I am getting 4.56s any day now and will most likely move up to 285/70R17. A part of me is still wanting 315s, but I think for now, 285s will be the right choice.
 

catahoula

Caught the Bug
Great pics and good write up. I am getting 4.56s any day now and will most likely move up to 285/70R17. A part of me is still wanting 315s, but I think for now, 285s will be the right choice.

Man, I am really wanting 315 or 35's but have a 2011 auto and 3.73's....
 

WJCO

Meme King
Thanks a million! I'm going (and staying) at 33s & was on the fence about this.

I'm still on the fence with the WJ. The 33s are the good girl that you bring home to mom, no worries, loyal girl etc..........But 35s on the other hand, is the girl that you really want but it's risky, you know it's gonna cost you a lot of brain damage and money in the process, but you still might do it anyway and take the risk......Decisions!
 

aro

New member
The 33s are the good girl that you bring home to mom, no worries, loyal girl etc..........But 35s on the other hand, is the girl that you really want but it's risky, you know it's gonna cost you a lot of brain damage and money in the process, but you still might do it anyway and take the risk......Decisions!

Hey, in real life you could have both :D


(Not really... it would be a recipe for disaster)
 

jtpedersen

Caught the Bug
Usefully written post; thanks. Regarding K&N, I've used them on vehicles myself in the past. Cannot really say they had any benefit other than the potential $$ saved when recycling them each time. However making sure to keep supplies (e.g. Oil) on hand was a pain. Half the time seemed I'd run out and needed a special trip.

Bigger deal though, though I'd been using them on 3 vehicles for a few years already, apparently I'd over-oiled one. The excess oil was drawn through the intake system with some (not humanly visible amount) getting deposited on the heated oxygen sensor. The Altima had two O2 sensors $149, $659. Guess which one I had?

Since then, I've just gone back to paper. And, know what, the inconvenience and threat of my doing in another sensor's dropped dramatically :). It's one of those YMMV issues.
 
Top Bottom