Regearing questions

Pyro1415

Pyro1415

New member
Hey guys so rather than do it all at once to save labor cost my brother said he doesn't mind tearing the rear axle open again down the road so free labor!!!

I'd like to pull the trigger on gears and was wondering what all I need to order. Cheaper is better but I don't want a large compromise in strength.
58k miles on my 30/44 combo
Going from what I believe is 3.73 to 5.13

Plan on replacing the front with a pr44 and shoving a locker and stronger shafts in the back down the road.
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
37s? And you plan on putting gears in the 30, or pr44? I know a few that have 5:13 in the 30, but with 35s and not locked. I'm sure some will chime in to help.

Edit: reread, it looks like they will be going in the D30 for now.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Pyro1415 said:
Hey guys so rather than do it all at once to save labor cost my brother said he doesn't mind tearing the rear axle open again down the road so free labor!!!

I'd like to pull the trigger on gears and was wondering what all I need to order. Cheaper is better but I don't want a large compromise in strength.
58k miles on my 30/44 combo
Going from what I believe is 3.73 to 5.13

Plan on replacing the front with a pr44 and shoving a locker and stronger shafts in the back down the road.
Click to expand...

Considering you have a 2010 I would deff do the 5.13's like you want.

As for price of parts all gears are made in the same plant so get the gear set that is the cheapest.

Are you going to regear both the 30/44 now before the pr? If so you mine as well lock the rear while you have it apart. Just makes life simpler. For shafts you can use your stock ones till you bend the flange then upgrade to some revolution shafts.
 
Pyro1415

Pyro1415

New member
JK LYF said:
37s? And you plan on putting gears in the 30, or pr44? I know a few that have 5:13 in the 30, but with 35s and not locked. I'm sure some will chime in to help.

Edit: reread, it looks like they will be going in the D30 for now.
Click to expand...

Yeah I don't plan on wheeling with the d30. This is mainly to get drivability back.
 
Pyro1415

Pyro1415

New member
cozdude said:
Considering you have a 2010 I would deff do the 5.13's like you want.

As for price of parts all gears are made in the same plant so get the gear set that is the cheapest.

Are you going to regear both the 30/44 now before the pr? If so you mine as well lock the rear while you have it apart. Just makes life simpler. For shafts you can use your stock ones till you bend the flange then upgrade to some revolution shafts.
Click to expand...

Yeah I just wanted drivability back for now and I don't have the money to do all of it at this time. I saw northridge had a combo pack for around 400 so I've been checking with trailjeeps to see what they have.

Do you know of a comparable e locker to eatons that's about half the price lol?
 
swampdog

swampdog

New member
cozdude said:
As for price of parts all gears are made in the same plant so get the gear set that is the cheapest.
Click to expand...

Is this really true? I would assume a cheaper motive or G2 wouldn't be the same as the Yukons people rave about. But I guess I should take it with a grain of salt bc it seems jeepers are very quick to defend their costly purchases, regardless of what they really think. Hmmm, guess you learn something every day.

I'm also in the market for regearing so the Yukon is not a better set?
 
Pyro1415

Pyro1415

New member
swampdog said:
Is this really true? I would assume a cheaper motive or G2 wouldn't be the same as the Yukons people rave about. But I guess I should take it with a grain of salt bc it seems jeepers are very quick to defend their costly purchases, regardless of what they really think. Hmmm, guess you learn something every day.

I'm also in the market for regearing so the Yukon is not a better set?
Click to expand...

Well same factory doesn't always mean same quality. Different companies might pay for different materials and additional qc. Now rebranding means they're all the same.
 
swampdog

swampdog

New member
aro said:
You'll need more than just the pinion and ring. This is the best price I found for a complete kit.
Click to expand...

Is the Alloy USA kit legit? Has anyone here used it for a long period of time?

I have the D30 up front and am going to a 4.56. Would I need a new carrier for the larger set?
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
swampdog said:
Is this really true? I would assume a cheaper motive or G2 wouldn't be the same as the Yukons people rave about. But I guess I should take it with a grain of salt bc it seems jeepers are very quick to defend their costly purchases, regardless of what they really think. Hmmm, guess you learn something every day.

I'm also in the market for regearing so the Yukon is not a better set?
Click to expand...

Yes all gears are manufactured at the same plant in Korea. If you look at the ring gear you will see a little circle with a k in it. Now that being said each company may treat the gears extra once they get them.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
aro said:
You'll need more than just the pinion and ring. This is the best price I found for a complete kit.
Click to expand...

If you get a locker like an arb you will not need a master overhaul kit and this is because an arb uses its own shim pack. You will only need a few things like pinion bearings to complete the install.
 
aro

aro

New member
swampdog said:
Is the Alloy USA kit legit? Has anyone here used it for a long period of time?

I have the D30 up front and am going to a 4.56. Would I need a new carrier for the larger set?
Click to expand...

Don't know anyone using that kit, I'll be the first one whom I know :) I've never heard of pinion & ring failing due to poor metal quality though. Personally, I wouldn't worry.

From what I understand, the carrier in a 3:21 Sport needs to be replaced. All others are good.
 
twoxstreem

twoxstreem

New member
Pyro1415 said:
Hey guys so rather than do it all at once to save labor cost my brother said he doesn't mind tearing the rear axle open again down the road so free labor!!!

I'd like to pull the trigger on gears and was wondering what all I need to order. Cheaper is better but I don't want a large compromise in strength.
58k miles on my 30/44 combo
Going from what I believe is 3.73 to 5.13

Plan on replacing the front with a pr44 and shoving a locker and stronger shafts in the back down the road.
Click to expand...

I have 37's and 5.13s in my Dana 30 and Dana 44. The shop used revolution gears and have been great and do not whine. 5.13s are the perfect gear for 37s. i have test drove 4.88s and 37s and the auto is always searching for gears. I can cruise a 70-75 on the highway with no problem. Do not go with Nitro gears which only lasted 2000 miles before they cause a catastrophic rear end failure.

My dana 30 is open and i have a the factory tac-loc in the rear at this time which i have replaced 3 times because of broker spider gears. I am now getting an ARB installed on Monday. I also have G2 chromoly shafts in the rear due to bent flanges.

I have had no issues wheeling the d30 upfront although i am careful not to push it and never a heavy throttle in reverse.

My suggestion would be to get the ARB now in the rear along with the gear change and a master overhaul kit with all new bearings etc.

I am also going w a pr 44 in the front when the time comes and i'll put in an ARB up front then as well.

My last advice is not to have an novice mechanic do anything to the gears. This work should only be done by an experienced jeep shop. Not every rear end shop should do the JK as there are some nuances to the backlash and preload which are critical to long life and smooth quiet operation. I am only speaking from experience after replacing my dana 44 rear once and rebuilding twice in 1 year.
 
twoxstreem

twoxstreem

New member
aro said:
Don't know anyone using that kit, I'll be the first one whom I know :) I've never heard of pinion & ring failing due to poor metal quality though. Personally, I wouldn't worry.

From what I understand, the carrier in a 3:21 Sport needs to be replaced. All others are good.
Click to expand...

I had Nitro Gears fail on me in a big way. The shrapnel damaged the housing so badly i needed an entire new rear housing, carrier and gears. I then went with Yukon and they howled so I now have revolution and that have been great.

and yes if you have 3.21s you will need a new front carrier. if you have 3.73s you will be fine.
 
swampdog

swampdog

New member
aro said:
Don't know anyone using that kit, I'll be the first one whom I know :) I've never heard of pinion & ring failing due to poor metal quality though. Personally, I wouldn't worry.

From what I understand, the carrier in a 3:21 Sport needs to be replaced. All others are good.
Click to expand...

Yup, I have the 3.21 in my 13 Sahara, so it sounds like I will need new carriers.
 
Pyro1415

Pyro1415

New member
twoxstreem said:
I have 37's and 5.13s in my Dana 30 and Dana 44. The shop used revolution gears and have been great and do not whine. 5.13s are the perfect gear for 37s. i have test drove 4.88s and 37s and the auto is always searching for gears. I can cruise a 70-75 on the highway with no problem. Do not go with Nitro gears which only lasted 2000 miles before they cause a catastrophic rear end failure.

My dana 30 is open and i have a the factory tac-loc in the rear at this time which i have replaced 3 times because of broker spider gears. I am now getting an ARB installed on Monday. I also have G2 chromoly shafts in the rear due to bent flanges.

I have had no issues wheeling the d30 upfront although i am careful not to push it and never a heavy throttle in reverse.

My suggestion would be to get the ARB now in the rear along with the gear change and a master overhaul kit with all new bearings etc.

I am also going w a pr 44 in the front when the time comes and i'll put in an ARB up front then as well.

My last advice is not to have an novice mechanic do anything to the gears. This work should only be done by an experienced jeep shop. Not every rear end shop should do the JK as there are some nuances to the backlash and preload which are critical to long life and smooth quiet operation. I am only speaking from experience after replacing my dana 44 rear once and rebuilding twice in 1 year.
Click to expand...

They're not jeep mechanics per say but they definitely aren't novice backyard guys. The jeep shop in my area didn't know that rk lift stood for Rock krawler and they opened about a year ago so I think I'll be avoiding them. I'll be going with an e locker. I've got orders to Alaska next and don't want to worry about an air line freezing/breaking. I'll look into the revolution gears.

What problems with the back end did you encounter?

What's the point of in installation vs overhaul kit?
 
twoxstreem

twoxstreem

New member
Pyro1415 said:
They're not jeep mechanics per say but they definitely aren't novice backyard guys. The jeep shop in my area didn't know that rk lift stood for Rock krawler and they opened about a year ago so I think I'll be avoiding them. I'll be going with an e locker. I've got orders to Alaska next and don't want to worry about an air line freezing/breaking. I'll look into the revolution gears.

What problems with the back end did you encounter?

What's the point of in installation vs overhaul kit?
Click to expand...

The factory Trac Loc doesn't handle the big tires well. I bent the factory axle shafts doing donuts in the snow so i now use G2 chomoly shafts and have not had any issues since. The heads of the Nitro gears supplied bolts sheered off from the carrier and ring gear which caused my entire rear end to be blow apart because the heads of the bolts got wedged between the ring and pinion and damaged the entire housing.

I grew up in northern maine and when it gets that kind of cold nothing works right, electric or not.

I have been going to Globex in NJ for my recent repairs they said that Eaton has poor customer service. Also make sure that the ring gear you get is drilled to accept both 7/16ths and 1/2" bolts. I believe that Eaton only makes their carrier in one size. I would call Eaton to confirm.

Master installation or overhaul kit is the same thing.
 
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