What axles??!!

5280Sapper

5280Sapper

Member
So I'm here trying to figure out what path I wanna take. First off I'm building my own dbl triangulated suspension and stretching just a tad for approach angles and building my own gas tank. I was hooked on the new mopar Dana 60's but it would add a significant time to my build saving for them.. Option 2 buy some rock jock housings bare or solid and build them since I'm using my own brackets and truss. Or buy a 14 bolt and Dana 60 front and build them.. What would you do?
 
GR8WHITE

GR8WHITE

New member
If i were you I would go 60/14 bolt route since you're not gonna use the brackets that come on the mopars.
 
jkwebbie

jkwebbie

New member
I'd say go with the Dana 60 and 14 bolt or Sterling 10.5. Artec makes trusses for all 3 of them to swap into a JK. Plus it'll be wayyyyyy cheaper than the Mopar axles
 
5280Sapper

5280Sapper

Member
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
13_gecko_rubi said:
The "small ring and pinion" of the 9"? It's beyond tried and tried
Click to expand...

My buddy has been running currie 9" axles on his jku on 40s with a 6.2ls for years. They are super strong. The hypoid offset of the 9" and the third pinon support make them incredibly strong. The 9" and 14bolt are not much different in strength despite the gear size difference. The hypoid offset is what makes it like that. Plus the 9" is waaaaaaaaayyyyyy lighter.
 
5280Sapper

5280Sapper

Member
13_gecko_rubi said:
My buddy has been running currie 9" axles on his jku on 40s with a 6.2ls for years. They are super strong. The hypoid offset of the 9" and the third pinon support make them incredibly strong. The 9" and 14bolt are not much different in strength despite the gear size difference. The hypoid offset is what makes it like that. Plus the 9" is waaaaaaaaayyyyyy lighter.
Click to expand...


I didn't mean it was weak by no means its so hard to find good info because everybody has an opinion and normally they aren't positive ya know!!! I could easily build some trail gear housings and do 9" drop outs with 5.28 gears and arm's and call it good a bit cheaper then other options and yes way lighter for sure.. would you do it?
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
I have dynatrac pr44/pr60 in my jku. I went that way due to the plug and play factor and never having to worry again.

I have several buddies running both dana 60/14 bolt and super duty dana 60/ sterling 10.5s. Both are strong but require good fab skills to install.

I'm currently looking to build anther more "toy" jk and will be using trail gear 9" with spidertrax knuckles and unit bearing on it. The issue is abs compatibility. If you want to run your abs and keep all the computers happy you pretty much have to run currie jk unit bearings which are $$$. I dont have that problem with my new build.
 
5280Sapper

5280Sapper

Member
13_gecko_rubi said:
I have dynatrac pr44/pr60 in my jku. I went that way due to the plug and play factor and never having to worry again.

I have several buddies running both dana 60/14 bolt and super duty dana 60/ sterling 10.5s. Both are strong but require good fab skills to install.

I'm currently looking to build anther more "toy" jk and will be using trail gear 9" with spidertrax knuckles and unit bearing on it. The issue is abs compatibility. If you want to run your abs and keep all the computers happy you pretty much have to run currie jk unit bearings which are $$$. I dont have that problem with my new build.
Click to expand...


I have the fab skills... gunna do double triangulated front and rear... I wonder if I could sim the abs sensor.. I don't car if it works or not just don't want the cel on the dash.. I'll be doing a semi swap as well maybe I can turn it off.. or say fuc it and save to get the new molar axles and cut the brackets off and not have to worry about that...?
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
5280Sapper said:
I have the fab skills... gunna do double triangulated front and rear... I wonder if I could sim the abs sensor.. I don't car if it works or not just don't want the cel on the dash.. I'll be doing a semi swap as well maybe I can turn it off.. or say fuc it and save to get the new molar axles and cut the brackets off and not have to worry about that...?
Click to expand...

U can install tome rings on most of the junkyard axle swaps now. A lot of folks run two sensors to each rear wheel to dummy the front signals. Depends on your year jk. 12+ you need the sensors or you will go into limp mode. 11 and earlier you only need one sensor to get the speedo to work. You'll have some lights on the dash if you do that. The new mopar axles have the speed sensors. Like someone stated earlier, articles has kits to make it easier on other axles. My buddy runs the ford 60 tooth tone rings that were in his Dana 60/sterling 10.5. He just played with the tire size to make the speedo correct since the jk stock has 52 teeth. His is a manual so the shift points weren't an issue. There are ways around everything. Dummying them/shutting them off isn't really an option though. I mean you could make some complicated signal generator (I'm an EE) but that would take a lot of work to do.
 
5280Sapper

5280Sapper

Member
13_gecko_rubi said:
U can install tome rings on most of the junkyard axle swaps now. A lot of folks run two sensors to each rear wheel to dummy the front signals. Depends on your year jk. 12+ you need the sensors or you will go into limp mode. 11 and earlier you only need one sensor to get the speedo to work. You'll have some lights on the dash if you do that. The new mopar axles have the speed sensors. Like someone stated earlier, articles has kits to make it easier on other axles. My buddy runs the ford 60 tooth tone rings that were in his Dana 60/sterling 10.5. He just played with the tire size to make the speedo correct since the jk stock has 52 teeth. His is a manual so the shift points weren't an issue. There are ways around everything. Dummying them/shutting them off isn't really an option though. I mean you could make some complicated signal generator (I'm an EE) but that would take a lot of work to do.
Click to expand...


Yeah that may be a problem.. it will be on a 16 JKU too... I have seen the tone rings... I guess I'm at a crossroads for sure.. I'm even debating swapping my 392 semi in and changing for an LS.
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
5280Sapper said:
Yeah that may be a problem.. it will be on a 16 JKU too... I have seen the tone rings... I guess I'm at a crossroads for sure.. I'm even debating swapping my 392 semi in and changing for an LS.
Click to expand...

If it's a 16 make sure whatever axles you pick you can get 52 tooth tone rings for if you are getting an auto.

I wouldn't trade the 392 hemi for an LS unless it's for cost issues. It takes a hell of a built LS to out due the 6.4 hemi. The 6.4l with the proper tune make 500hp/500ftlbs in the JK with amazing low end torque due to the active intake. Plus if you are putting it in a 16 you reuse the trans, just need to change bell housing.
 
5280Sapper

5280Sapper

Member
13_gecko_rubi said:
If it's a 16 make sure whatever axles you pick you can get 52 tooth tone rings for if you are getting an auto.

I wouldn't trade the 392 hemi for an LS unless it's for cost issues. It takes a hell of a built LS to out due the 6.4 hemi. The 6.4l with the proper tune make 500hp/500ftlbs in the JK with amazing low end torque due to the active intake. Plus if you are putting it in a 16 you reuse the trans, just need to change bell housing.
Click to expand...


I'm with ya.. still new to this world so learning what interchanges with each other still!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom