Dynatrac PR44 Track bar bracket and Trail 60 question

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
So, I'm making plans for my rig and am currently pricing out options. My question is, if the Dynatrac PR44 is ordered with their raised track bar bracket, will a drag link flip still be needed? If so, would it be best to skip the Dynatrac bracket and just go with the EVO DL flip for the PR44 axle?

Also, I'm considering a Semi Float trail 60 for the rear. My only other option is building the rear D44 with an ARB, 35 spline shafts, and regear. Anyone running the trail 60? Overkill for 37s? I would like some thoughts and opinions on it. I'm on 35s now but will eventually be jumping to 37s, which is why I want to build it now and not have to make any modifications later for 37s. Thanks Wayalifers!
 

Coop

Caught the Bug
Can't help you on the track bar question, but if you run the PR44 on front and 60 on the rear, wouldn't you have two different wheel lug patterns, 5 bolt and 8 bolt? I thought about this too but the 60 I'm pretty sure has an 8 bolt lug pattern. I will be corrected if I'm wrong.
 

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
Can't help you on the track bar question, but if you run the PR44 on front and 60 on the rear, wouldn't you have two different wheel lug patterns, 5 bolt and 8 bolt? I thought about this too but the 60 I'm pretty sure has an 8 bolt lug pattern. I will be corrected if I'm wrong.

Both the Trail and PR 60 can be purchased in 5x5. However its semi-float only.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Can't help you on the track bar question, but if you run the PR44 on front and 60 on the rear, wouldn't you have two different wheel lug patterns, 5 bolt and 8 bolt? I thought about this too but the 60 I'm pretty sure has an 8 bolt lug pattern. I will be corrected if I'm wrong.

No the trail60 is 5 lug and is a semi float axle like the stock d44.

So, I'm making plans for my rig and am currently pricing out options. My question is, if the Dynatrac PR44 is ordered with their raised track bar bracket, will a drag link flip still be needed? If so, would it be best to skip the Dynatrac bracket and just go with the EVO DL flip for the PR44 axle?

Also, I'm considering a Semi Float trail 60 for the rear. My only other option is building the rear D44 with an ARB, 35 spline shafts, and regear. Anyone running the trail 60? Overkill for 37s? I would like some thoughts and opinions on it. I'm on 35s now but will eventually be jumping to 37s, which is why I want to build it now and not have to make any modifications later for 37s. Thanks Wayalifers!

I believe the raised trackbar bracket is the same as the dead link flip kit bracket. The only thing you would need to do is get a RHD drag link and a sleeve to complete the flip.

As for the trail60 I would save my money and build the stock d44. It is strong enough for 37's. The trail60 shares the same weak point as the stock d44 which is the axle shaft flanges.
 

BlueBox

New member
If you're ordering the PR44 from NR4X4 the raised trackbar bracket option is just the Synergy HD track bar bracket. It's got raised holes, as well as stock ones so you could just run stock height until you were ready to raise afaik.

I hemmed and hawed over this same question, but I think its more flexible than they make it out to be. I ultimately went with orange knuckles which flip the DL so I cant speak to actually running the track bar at a lower hole, but looking at the bracket I dont see why it wouldnt work. You can look up the synergy bracket separately if you want to see what it looks like.
 

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
This is just my personal opinion, based on my Jeep and how I'd wheel it, but I think the Trail 60 still offers plenty of benefits to warrant it. The 9.75" ring gear and larger pinion and bearings give you a lot more strength you can't get out of the D44 housing. As well as the axle shafts are now 1.5" in diameter.

This is a picture of a 35 spline D44 axle (upgraded over stock 32 spline) next to a D60 axle shaft. You can make the argument that the flange is still the weak point, but this still seems like a smart upgrade to me. As long as you're not overloading your Jeep for a week excursion and you don't go crazy with the skinny pedal, I think this would probably do the trick and you'd have enough cash from not going full float to get a spare set of axle shafts just in case.

DSC05416.jpg
http://project-jk.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=79430
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
No the trail60 is 5 lug and is a semi float axle like the stock d44.



I believe the raised trackbar bracket is the same as the dead link flip kit bracket. The only thing you would need to do is get a RHD drag link and a sleeve to complete the flip.

As for the trail60 I would save my money and build the stock d44. It is strong enough for 37's. The trail60 shares the same weak point as the stock d44 which is the axle shaft flanges.

Thanks Coz, awesome info. If that's the case, I think the EVO DL flip would be a better deal because it comes with the new DL and sleeve.

Also, I didn't even think about the flanges on the trail 60. Partly why I asked, because I knew if I was missing something someone would bring it up. Definitely something to consider!
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
If you're ordering the PR44 from NR4X4 the raised trackbar bracket option is just the Synergy HD track bar bracket. It's got raised holes, as well as stock ones so you could just run stock height until you were ready to raise afaik.

I hemmed and hawed over this same question, but I think its more flexible than they make it out to be. I ultimately went with orange knuckles which flip the DL so I cant speak to actually running the track bar at a lower hole, but looking at the bracket I dont see why it wouldnt work. You can look up the synergy bracket separately if you want to see what it looks like.

I have gone to almost every website that sells Dynatrac looking to see if there was any difference in price, but I will not be going through NR4X4 for purchase. I am waiting on a quote from my local Dynatrac dealer and of road shop to compare the difference between my stock rear built with an ARB and 35 spline shafts, and the Trail 60. If I do end up purchasing online I will likely go through Quadratec, or may even give Trail Jeeps a call to see what they can do.
I definitely didn't realize it was the Synergy bracket they sold with it. Is that just what NR sells it with? I thought Dynatrac made their own as well? Thanks for the info!

This is just my personal opinion, based on my Jeep and how I'd wheel it, but I think the Trail 60 still offers plenty of benefits to warrant it. The 9.75" ring gear and larger pinion and bearings give you a lot more strength you can't get out of the D44 housing. As well as the axle shafts are now 1.5" in diameter.

This is a picture of a 35 spline D44 axle (upgraded over stock 32 spline) next to a D60 axle shaft. You can make the argument that the flange is still the weak point, but this still seems like a smart upgrade to me. As long as you're not overloading your Jeep for a week excursion and you don't go crazy with the skinny pedal, I think this would probably do the trick and you'd have enough cash from not going full float to get a spare set of axle shafts just in case.

View attachment 184402
http://project-jk.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=79430

This was my original thought as well. Stronger internals to have a fairly bulletproof setup with 37s. I definitely don't overload my Jeep. With the soft top and half doors, EVO facia and lighter weight FMF front bumper I'm pretty light. I do like a bit of spirited driving every so often, but typically on flat dirt roads rather than rough terrain. That's mainly why I'm debating whether I should do the trail 60 or if the built 44 with 35 spline shafts will be plenty. I want reliable, but I also don't want to spend the money if I don't need to. There's plenty more parts the money could go to, but if it's something worth it, I'd rather spend the money on the big stuff and wait on the smaller things. Right now I'm primarily concentrating on axles and suspension, with the possibility of moving to 37s right away as well. This actually brings up another question. How much ground clearance do you give up with the trail 60? If I wait to bump up to 37s for a little while, am I going to be dragging everywhere with the trail 60 on 35s for the time being? Again, thanks for the great Info!
 

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
If you had already paid the money to regear, that might have been the deciding factor to just beef up the stock axle. Since you haven't, that might make a stronger case to upgrade. The nice thing about the Trail 60 is you can keep your existing wheel bolt pattern and you can re-use your brakes, both of which save you money. I can understand the argument about not throwing money into an axle you'll never get full use of, but IMO the Trail 60 axle should give a lot more peace of mind than a built up 44 because of the additional strength of the axle tubes and housing. Remember on a high pinion axle, you've got a lot of force working on the weak side of the ring gear. Adding a much larger and stronger ring gear into the mix along with a housing better equipped to reduce deflection will keep all those expensive parts happier and working longer than the smaller 44 parts.

Also, since you're talking about clearance, are you referring to the original Trail 60 housing or the upgraded Prorock 60 housing? I know the PR60 housing has better ground clearance than the stock D44, but I'm not sure about the regular Trail housing. If it were me, I'd upgrade to the PR60 housing just for the strength, even assuming it has the same or worse clearance.
 
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Ddays

Hooked
Ditto this ^^

I upgraded to the PR60 the same time I did my PR44. Was it totally necessary running 37's? No. I did it for peace of mind.
I have plenty of trips West planned and I want to be able to drive there and be able to drive back when I'm done.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought I read somewhere that Dynatrac builds all of the PR60's in-house?
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
I have the same pr44/pr60 sf setup also. If your going to drop the coin on the trail 60 it is about 400 to upgrade to the PR60 housing which gives you about same clearance as your stock 44. You also get the heavy duty cover. The trail 60 is a standard sized dana 60 housing so less ground clearance. It's up to you but just fyi.
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
If you had already paid the money to regear, that might have been the deciding factor to just beef up the stock axle. Since you haven't, that might make a stronger case to upgrade. The nice thing about the Trail 60 is you're keeping your existing wheel bolt pattern and you can re-use your brakes, both of which save you money. I can understand the argument about not throwing money into an axle you'll never get full use of, but IMO the Trail 60 axle should give a lot more peace of mind than a built up 44 because of the additional strength of the axle tubes and housing. Remember on a high pinion axle, you've got a lot of force working on the weak side of the ring gear. Adding a much larger and stronger ring gear into the mix along with a housing better equipped to reduce deflection will keep all those expensive parts happier and working longer than the smaller 44 parts.

Also, since you're talking about clearance, are you referring to the original Trail 60 housing or the upgraded Prorock 60 housing? I know the PR60 housing has better ground clearance than the stock D44, but I'm not sure about the regular Trail housing. If it were me, I'd upgrade to the PR60 housing just for the strength, even assuming it has the same or worse clearance.

Great info, I didn't realize you could get the PR60 housing on the Trail 60. I've requested several quotes with and without the housing for price difference.

Ditto this ^^

I upgraded to the PR60 the same time I did my PR44. Was it totally necessary running 37's? No. I did it for peace of mind.
I have plenty of trips West planned and I want to be able to drive there and be able to drive back when I'm done.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought I read somewhere that Dynatrac builds all of the PR60's in-house?

Again, this is what got me thinking of the Trail 60 to begin with. I'm still not sure it's entirely necessary with 37s, but I do want something I never really have to worry about. I also need it to still be reliable years down the road, when I retire and my wife and I really start using it more often.

I have the same pr44/pr60 sf setup also. If your going to drop the coin on the trail 60 it is about 400 to upgrade to the PR60 housing which gives you about same clearance as your stock 44. You also get the heavy duty cover. The trail 60 is a standard sized dana 60 housing so less ground clearance. It's up to you but just fyi.

Excellent info! As mentioned above, I did not realize The PR60 housing could be ordered on the trail 60. If it is just 400 more and I go this route, it's a no brainier to get the PR housing. Thanks again for the great info! I'm assuming your running 37s?
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
So, just to make sure I'm not missing anything. With the PR44 out front, Ill need a new driveshaft, and a drag link flip specific to the PR44. If I go with the Trail 60 in the rear, Ill need a new driveshaft. I plan to top them off with the Dynatrac performance brake kit. Of course, Ill need an ARB compressor to run the lockers, and front and rear locker switches. If I decide to build the stock rear end with 35 spline shafts and an ARB, I can still use the stock rear driveshaft. Am I missing anything here needed to make this work? Thanks!
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
Also, since you're talking about clearance, are you referring to the original Trail 60 housing or the upgraded Prorock 60 housing? I know the PR60 housing has better ground clearance than the stock D44, but I'm not sure about the regular Trail housing. If it were me, I'd upgrade to the PR60 housing just for the strength, even assuming it has the same or worse clearance.

I was curious about the standard trail 60 diff housing and how much clearance I would be giving up over going with the PR housing. It is my understanding the PR60 housing offers about the same clearance as the stock D44. I am curious what the difference in clearance is with the standard Trail 60 housing. Anyone know how much difference there is in ground clearance between the Trail and ProRock 60? Thanks again Wayalifers!
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So, just to make sure I'm not missing anything. With the PR44 out front, Ill need a new driveshaft, and a drag link flip specific to the PR44. If I go with the Trail 60 in the rear, Ill need a new driveshaft. I plan to top them off with the Dynatrac performance brake kit. Of course, Ill need an ARB compressor to run the lockers, and front and rear locker switches. If I decide to build the stock rear end with 35 spline shafts and an ARB, I can still use the stock rear driveshaft. Am I missing anything here needed to make this work? Thanks!

Nope your not missing anything. As you said you will need new ds front and rear. Your axle will come with the switches, air lines, and the solenoids to run the lockers. You will need to buy a compressor as well as you mentioned.
 

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
I was curious about the standard trail 60 diff housing and how much clearance I would be giving up over going with the PR housing. It is my understanding the PR60 housing offers about the same clearance as the stock D44. I am curious what the difference in clearance is with the standard Trail 60 housing. Anyone know how much difference there is in ground clearance between the Trail and ProRock 60? Thanks again Wayalifers!

This illustration was posted by ttfhell in this thread. http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=33744

1453931515907.jpg

It's my understanding that the trail 60 is mostly a standard 60 so you can see in the picture above how much ground clearance your gain by upgrading to the PR housing.
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
Nope your not missing anything. As you said you will need new ds front and rear. Your axle will come with the switches, air lines, and the solenoids to run the lockers. You will need to buy a compressor as well as you mentioned.

Awesome, thanks again for the help Coz! I appreciate it!

This illustration was posted by ttfhell in this thread. http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=33744

View attachment 184628

It's my understanding that the trail 60 is mostly a standard 60 so you can see in the picture above how much ground clearance your gain by upgrading to the PR housing.

Awesome illustration! I'm a very visual person so that tells me everything I need to know! Thanks for the help MR. Ty!
 

Coop

Caught the Bug
Nope your not missing anything. As you said you will need new ds front and rear. Your axle will come with the switches, air lines, and the solenoids to run the lockers. You will need to buy a compressor as well as you mentioned.
Hey Cozdude! I thought NR4x4 said the PR44 could be had with the stock front drive shaft. Did I misunderstand this? Won't be first time!
 
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