5:13 or 5:38?

Jake Wilson

Jake Wilson

New member
Hey y'all,
I will be upgrading my front and rear axels to the PR 44 and PR 60 (Simi float) and will be running 40's. When I do so I'll be changing my gear ratio to either 5:13 or 5:38. Originally I was going to go with 5:38 but the average highway speed in Texas is 70mph. So I'm not sure if I should go as low as 5:38. Yalls opinions would be great! 2012 JKU
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Jake Wilson said:
Hey y'all,
I will be upgrading my front and rear axels to the PR 44 and PR 60 (Simi float) and will be running 40's. When I do so I'll be changing my gear ratio to either 5:13 or 5:38. Originally I was going to go with 5:38 but the average highway speed in Texas is 70mph. So I'm not sure if I should go as low as 5:38. Yalls opinions would be great! 2012 JKU
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LOL!! Are you being for real?? If you're planning to wheel your Jeep, you WILL end up breaking your 44 even with 5.13 gears. A 5.38 pinion is really really small in a 44 and I can guarantee that you will break it sooner than later... IF you wheel your Jeep. Trust me, I have tried it and it didn't last 2 months/9 trail runs. While a semi-float PR60 will last a while, you will end up blowing your ring gear and your axles at the flanges. Again, this is IF you wheel your Jeep. Been there and done that too and that's why on Moby, we run a PR60 and upgraded the rear once to a full float rear PR60 and now a PR80. Just trying to save you some money in the long run.
 
Jake Wilson

Jake Wilson

New member
I do wheel, a lot. And I was originally going to go with a PR 60 front 60 rear (full float) but so many people kept telling me it was over kill so I dropped to a 44 front with RCV and a 60 Simi rear. So you're saying it's a waste of time to even bother doing that? Well I respect your opinion so I'll reconsider. Do you think my first option would work fine? Also 5:13 or 5:38 haha
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Jake Wilson said:
I do wheel, a lot. And I was originally going to go with a PR 60 front 60 rear (full float) but so many people kept telling me it was over kill so I dropped to a 44 front with RCV and a 60 Simi rear. So you're saying it's a waste of time to even bother doing that? Well I respect your opinion so I'll reconsider. Do you think my first option would work fine? Also 5:13 or 5:38 haha
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Who are all these "many people"? I would never pretend to know more than them and can only share what I have personally done and have broken over the last 9 years. I only wish I knew then what I know now so that I could have saved thousands upon thousands of dollars.

What I can tell you is this, a front ProRock 60 with competition shafts and CTM u-joints is what I have been running for almost 7 years now and have racked up over 100,000 miles on it. If you haven't seen them, we have a few videos on YouTube that highlights the kind of malls we play in from time to time. A full float rear 60 is a much better option than the semi-float as it'll keep you from breaking a shaft at the flange BUT, being that it is a high pinion axle, you will still be running on the weak side of the ring gear and over time, it will fail. So that it isn't missed, this will be true on ANY 60 that is currently available and more so on diff housings that allow for more deflection. Ask me, TrailBud, brainchild, KenB1010 and others how we know. If you can afford it, the new XD60 helps to address this with its bigger and beefier ring and pinion and much more rigid differential housing. Of course, a ProRock 80 is ultimately what we ended up with. Being that it is a low pinion design, you will put your drive shaft closer to the rocks but you will be running a HUGE ring and pinion and on the strong side of the gear. A failure here is highly unlikely.

As far as gears go, 5.38 is the ratio that you want with a set of 40" tires.
 
Jake Wilson

Jake Wilson

New member
wayoflife said:
Who are all these "many people"? I would never pretend to know more than them and can only share what I have personally done and have broken over the last 9 years. I only wish I knew then what I know now so that I could have saved thousands upon thousands of dollars.

What I can tell you is this, a front ProRock 60 with competition shafts and CTM u-joints is what I have been running for almost 7 years now and have racked up over 100,000 miles on it. If you haven't seen them, we have a few videos on YouTube that highlights the kind of malls we play in from time to time. A full float 60 is a much better option than the semi-float as it'll keep you from breaking a shaft at the flange BUT, being that it is a high pinion axle, you will still be running on the weak side of the ring gear and over time, it will fail. So that it isn't missed, this will be true on ANY 60 that is currently available and more so on diff housings that allow for more deflection. Ask me, TrailBud, brainchild, KenB1010 and others how we know. If you can afford it, the new XD60 helps to address this with its bigger and beefier ring and pinion and much more rigid differential housing. Of course, a ProRock 80 is ultimately what we ended up with. Being that it is a low pinion design, you will put your drive shaft closer to the rocks but you will be running a HUGE ring and pinion and on the strong side of the gear. A failure here is highly unlikely.

As far as gears go, 5.38 is the ratio that you want with a set of 40" tires.
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You obviously have far more wheeling experience than most which is why I will value your opinion. With that being said I will look more into the 60's and XD 60's and see if those are do-able. I always tell my friends and local wheelers that it is always more expensive to buy the same part twice so I figured I should take my own advice. You have been running the same 60 in the front for 7 years with NO issues? :clap2:That is outstanding and definitely something I will hold as a justification for dropping the money on a 60. I figured with the upgraded axels and tires I'd run the new ProBrake system they are offering. I take it you have had no issues with this system? :thumb:
 
Havoc40

Havoc40

New member
Slight derail. Eddie, how have those CTM joints held up over those 100k miles? Some say they're not for DD rigs, others say it's no biggie. Obviously, you're putting more miles on your rig than most...just curious on the maintenance.

I'm hoping by summer to be finished collecting parts and building my LS engine. Next up will be saving for axles. I've been looking at front shaft combinations and want to make sure I go with something that can withstand the power. I'll have quite a bit in that department.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Jake Wilson said:
You obviously have far more wheeling experience than most which is why I will value your opinion. With that being said I will look more into the 60's and XD 60's and see if those are do-able. I always tell my friends and local wheelers that it is always more expensive to buy the same part twice so I figured I should take my own advice. You have been running the same 60 in the front for 7 years with NO issues? :clap2:That is outstanding and definitely something I will hold as a justification for dropping the money on a 60. I figured with the upgraded axels and tires I'd run the new ProBrake system they are offering. I take it you have had no issues with this system? :thumb:
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Yes, running the exact same front ProRock 60 for 7 years, over 100,000 miles and without ANY issues. This is the same axle that's been on countless year after year runs up the Rubicon, Fordyce, Moab, multiple JK-Experiences and the one that got me off the Dusy Ershim all on it's own after I blew out my rear axle with 10 miles of trail left to go. The competition shafts with CTM u-joints are also way better and have lasted way longer than guys I know with RCV's. As far as brakes go, you will get much bigger brakes with your front and full float rear ProRock 60's.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Havoc40 said:
Slight derail. Eddie, how have those CTM joints held up over those 100k miles? Some say they're not for DD rigs, others say it's no biggie. Obviously, you're putting more miles on your rig than most...just curious on the maintenance.

I'm hoping by summer to be finished collecting parts and building my LS engine. Next up will be saving for axles. I've been looking at front shaft combinations and want to make sure I go with something that can withstand the power. I'll have quite a bit in that department.
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You need to remember that a front ProRock 60 come with manual locking hubs. The axle shafts and u-joints will not move at all during daily driving and will only turn when you're hubs are locked for the trail. That being said, we have still racked up thousands of miles with them turning on the trail (and when I've forgotten to unlock the hubs) and they're still holding up just fine.
 
Jake Wilson

Jake Wilson

New member
wayoflife said:
Yes, running the exact same front ProRock 60 for 7 years, over 100,000 miles and without ANY issues. This is the same axle that's been on countless year after year runs up the Rubicon, Fordyce, Moab, multiple JK-Experiences and the one that got me off the Dusy Ershim all on it's own after I blew out my rear axle with 10 miles of trail left to go. The competition shafts with CTM u-joints are also way better and have lasted way longer than guys I know with RCV's. As far as brakes go, you will get much bigger brakes with your front and full float rear ProRock 60's.
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Sweet so I don't even need to upgrade my brakes so that will save some money as well. You sold me on the 60 front and rear. No I just gotta hit up Dynatrac and get a price quote. I am hoping within the next year to be able to join in on all these big trips. Especially a JKX run. I take it you went with a 1350 DS for your front and rear? Or do the 60's only support a 1350? BTW thank you for your help.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Jake Wilson said:
Sweet so I don't even need to upgrade my brakes so that will save some money as well. You sold me on the 60 front and rear. No I just gotta hit up Dynatrac and get a price quote. I am hoping within the next year to be able to join in on all these big trips. Especially a JKX run. I take it you went with a 1350 DS for your front and rear? Or do the 60's only support a 1350? BTW thank you for your help.
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Sorry, Cindy and I have chosen to no longer attend the JKX but we'd love for you to join us on any of our other runs. As far as drive shafts go, yes, you will want a 1350 front and rear.
 
Jake Wilson

Jake Wilson

New member
wayoflife said:
Sorry, Cindy and I have chosen to no longer attend the JKX but we'd love for you to join us on any of our other runs. As far as drive shafts go, yes, you will want a 1350 front and rear.
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Ok well I look forward to seeing you on the trail soon. Thank you so much for your help. I'll restart my build thread when I start ordering all the new parts. i.e. axels, coilovers, tires, wheels etc. :beer:
 
Havoc40

Havoc40

New member
wayoflife said:
You need to remember that a front ProRock 60 come with manual locking hubs. The axle shafts and u-joints will not move at all during daily driving and will only turn when you're hubs are locked for the trail. That being said, we have still racked up thousands of miles with them turning on the trail (and when I've forgotten to unlock the hubs) and they're still holding up just fine.
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Thanks, that's good to know. I will be going with a PR 60/80 combo. Don't know why, but I wasn't even thinking about the manual hubs :doh:! With my old truck, I've been guilty of leaving the hubs locked in longer than I should during the winter months (when we actually had snow, unlike this year).
 
Benito

Benito

Caught the Bug
What about 5.13s in a D44 with 37s?? I'm debating whether I should gear to 4.88s or 5.13s. I'm leaning towards 4.88s for strength and daily driving, but would 5.13s be a better route?
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Benito said:
What about 5.13s in a D44 with 37s?? I'm debating whether I should gear to 4.88s or 5.13s. I'm leaning towards 4.88s for strength and daily driving, but would 5.13s be a better route?
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Being that you have a 13' and a manual tranny 4.88 might be better for 37's
 
DGP

DGP

New member
Benito said:
What about 5.13s in a D44 with 37s?? I'm debating whether I should gear to 4.88s or 5.13s. I'm leaning towards 4.88s for strength and daily driving, but would 5.13s be a better route?
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So I just had 5.13 gears installed in my '07 JKU with auto and 35" tires. I was going to originally get 4.88s but was talked into 5.13 by trail jeeps and others that were running them with no issues. The shop that installed the gears in my rear 44 said he hates putting them in because they get too hot and don't last. Anyone have issues with 5.13s in Dana/pro rock 44 with 35-37" tires? I'm worried I should have stuck to my guns and got 4.88
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Benito said:
What about 5.13s in a D44 with 37s?? I'm debating whether I should gear to 4.88s or 5.13s. I'm leaning towards 4.88s for strength and daily driving, but would 5.13s be a better route?
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cozdude said:
Being that you have a 13' and a manual tranny 4.88 might be better for 37's
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What cozdude said ^^^
With a 3.6L motor and a manual transmission, 4.88's will make your 37's feel like you're stock again. 5.13's aren't a bad choice as they will give you a bit more power but you will be running slightly higher in the RPM at highway speeds.

DGP said:
So I just had 5.13 gears installed in my '07 JKU with auto and 35" tires. I was going to originally get 4.88s but was talked into 5.13 by trail jeeps and others that were running them with no issues. The shop that installed the gears in my rear 44 said he hates putting them in because they get too hot and don't last. Anyone have issues with 5.13s in Dana/pro rock 44 with 35-37" tires? I'm worried I should have stuck to my guns and got 4.88
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5.13's with a 3.8L motor is what I would recommend with 37's. You shouldn't have any issues with a Dana 44.
 
USMMA11NC

USMMA11NC

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
What cozdude said ^^^
With a 3.6L motor and a manual transmission, 4.88's will make your 37's feel like you're stock again. 5.13's aren't a bad choice as they will give you a bit more power but you will be running slightly higher in the RPM at highway speeds.



5.13's with a 3.8L motor is what I would recommend with 37's. You shouldn't have any issues with a Dana 44.
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And for my own clarification... 5.13s are a better choice on a 2015 automatic running 37s (rubi btw)?
 
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