What next to trail-proof a new rubicon? Did lift, tires, bumpers and rails.

zimm

Caught the Bug
As the spring off-roading seasons is quickly approaching, I'm looking to see what I should do before hitting the trails to help avoid breaking anything with my new JKU Rubicon.

So far- RockKrawler 2.5 with front lower arms, 315 duratracs, bumpers, rock sliders, winch, CB, fire extinguisher.

Next mod is to have my fab shop cut off the stock rear trac bar bracket and weld on a new heavy duty one, which will eliminate the rockkrawler bolt on bracket. They said those are weak and will probably break.

What else? Should I have C-gussets welded in at the same time?

Any essential skids to get? Looking under the jeep, it looks like the engine oil pan is unprotected and also the front pumpkin cover looks pretty vulnerable.

Front driveshaft is still stock, I was going to wait until the boot goes out then figure out a replacement.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
If you have an automatic, you definitely want a transmission skid to protect the cooler line and sump pan. An oil pan skid is a good idea too but not as necessary. Otherwise, all the factory skids will serve you well.

Not sure what the deal is with cutting your factory track bar mount and have a new one welded on but yeah, if you can have guests installed at the same time, that would be a good idea.

Differential covers are fun and look cool but you'd be fine with your factory ones. Where they will be a problem is that the bottom lip can get caught on a rock and peel back. The solution to this is to grind the edge of it so that it sits above the base of your diff housing - problem solved.
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
Thanks. I can grind that lower edge. It's an automatic. I thought the trans was covered by a skid, but maybe that was the x-fer case- I'm at work and can't remember now. I do remember seeing the exposed metal fluid line running under the pan.

The shop said the RK bracket, which goes over top of the factory bracket is what is weak. That's why he said it's better just to chop it all off and put an aftermarket weld-on bracket to replace both.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks. I can grind that lower edge. It's an automatic. I thought the trans was covered by a skid, but maybe that was the x-fer case- I'm at work and can't remember now. I do remember seeing the exposed metal fluid line running under the pan.

The shop said the RK bracket, which goes over top of the factory bracket is what is weak. That's why he said it's better just to chop it all off and put an aftermarket weld-on bracket to replace both.

You should have a "skid bar" and it will help protect the sump pan but it's the cooler line that I'd be concerned with being that a root or branch from a fallen tree could catch and damage it.

Regarding the RK bracket, why not just have it burned onto the axle? I don't know them from Adam but it sounds to me like they're just trying to rack up more labor hours.
 

OhNoTheJiggies

New member
Yeah... I have the rk lift and it cane eith that bracket, bolt it on and then have it welded too... or just welded. Cutting off the stock one is just lining their pockets more
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
What's a good skid plate to get?

I personally prefer the EVO protek skid because it protects just what you need and nothing else and sits up higher than other skids but, that's just me. Rock Hard makes a great skid as well.
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
Yeah... I have the rk lift and it cane eith that bracket, bolt it on and then have it welded too... or just welded. Cutting off the stock one is just lining their pockets more

I can do that. I just took an intro to welding class. I'm ready to fire up my Miller and go to town on it. It's just a couple of short beads to tie it into the axle.
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
The 3 piece EVO protek system (EVO-211) or just their tranny skid EVO-1092?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
The 3 piece EVO protek system (EVO-211) or just their tranny skid EVO-1092?

Personally, I would just get the oil pan and tranny skid and if anything, replace the cross member with a heavy duty one.
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
After some more reading, I'm really liking the rock hard skid you mentioned further up. I think I'll pull the trigger on that one.
 
If you have an automatic, you definitely want a transmission skid to protect the cooler line and sump pan. An oil pan skid is a good idea too but not as necessary. Otherwise, all the factory skids will serve you well.

Not sure what the deal is with cutting your factory track bar mount and have a new one welded on but yeah, if you can have guests installed at the same time, that would be a good idea.

Differential covers are fun and look cool but you'd be fine with your factory ones. Where they will be a problem is that the bottom lip can get caught on a rock and peel back. The solution to this is to grind the edge of it so that it sits above the base of your diff housing - problem solved.


Hi Wayoflife:

Since the oil pan is on the engine would you just recommend a skid plate for the engine and transmission skid plate?
 
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