Inner Front Axle Seals on Dana 30
- Thread starter chttrbx
- Start date
WJCO
Meme King
Don't know off the top of my head, but I'm guessing 3-4 hours. They're kind of a PITA. You also need a bearing/seal driver tool and for the rf one, you have to use something really long to replace the seal, seen lots of custom stuff to make that work. I just recently had mine done by a shop. He was already doing my gears and was nice enough to not charge me and did the seals at the same time.
chttrbx
New member
Yes so I just had the both axle shafts out so that's gonna be pretty straightforward since I just took them all out put it back together used all kinds of anti-seize. I called my local jeep dealership they wanted like 700 bucks, my local four wheel parts store was just under $400.
It just really pains me to spend $400 to install some $20 parts, so I was hoping that somebody would have some experience with this
It just really pains me to spend $400 to install some $20 parts, so I was hoping that somebody would have some experience with this
WJCO
Meme King
I'm sure you can find a youtube video on it too. It's not hard as much as just a time consuming job.
Wethy
Member
i had my dealership do it under warranty. it took them about 3 1/2 hours or so to do the drivers side on my D30. im not sure on price as is was under warranty. but IF they charged for time and labour it should have been roughly like 350 (3.5 hours at 99 an hour) and 20-30 bucks for a marked up oem seal! lol
I did mine a couple months ago. It was only about a 2 hour job. It's not that bad.
chttrbx
New member
So when you say it only took two hours was that two hours to do the carrier removal and then remove the inner seals reinstall the seals and reinstall the carrier?
Because when I did my axles and replace the U joints it was probably an hour to get each one removed since they've never been taken out before and I would guess that now I could probably take them both out in half hour 45 minutes from back in within 45 minutes so that would leave me about 30 minutes just to do the carrier and seals?
tdougherty81
New member
Replaced mine a year ago, took about 4 hours. Parts shop actually order the wrong seals which I didn't realize until went to put them in. So that kept me down an extra day.
Used a miles worth of extensions.
Used a miles worth of extensions.
2 hours total. From taking tires off to getting them back on. Would have been a little faster but I had a problem getting one of the seals seated right.
WJCO
Meme King
Being that you haven't done it before, I would plan on half a day just to be safe. Especially with un-familiar socket sizes, tools, etc for this particular job. Obviously air tools make it faster if you have them as well. I can't image that book time is any less than 3 hours.
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WJCO
Meme King
If you put everything back the same way it came apart you won't have to mess with that.
EDIT: If you want to measure backlash just for kicks and a learning experience, you just need a dial indicator. With the cover off, you just pop it on a ring gear tooth, zero the gauge and move the gears back and forth to measure it. It really isn't necessary to check it though if you're just putting seals in. Just make sure you keep track of all the shims and put them back in the same spot. If you do decide to buy a dial indicator, get a decent one, not just a cheapy. You can use it in the future for other things too.
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highoctane
Caught the Bug
^^^ That's how I did the seals on the D44 in my '08 JK Rubi. Just kept track of the shins and put it all back together the same way it came out. Was a fairly easy job.
AC1977
New member
I did this to my 08 Rubicon last Saturday, I'd say 4 to 5 hours for the job depending on your comfort level. I used a long rod and a 36mm socket to seat the seals back in, it fits that seal almost perfect. You'll need that socket to remove the axle shaft nut anyway. Loosen the axle shaft nuts before you remove the brakes and rotor, that way you can have a buddy step on the brakes to loosen that nut. After that it's a cake walk. I would just say make sure you actually use a torque wrench and torque all the nuts and bolts properly, if you don't, you'll wish you had.
AC1977
New member
Just a quick question, when you removed your Axles did you also remove the plastic axle shaft guide as well? They don't usually come out with the shaft, you have to fish them out with a coat hanger or the like. If you didn't take them out, I would almost guarantee you shoved that plastic guide through the the oil seal during re-installation of the axle and it's causing the leak.
My dealership replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, etc three weeks ago and when the mechanic put the axle shafts back in he didn't remove the axle guides. I found two guides in each axle tube, and one of those was shoved through the the oil seal causing the leak. No doubt it's a lot of work for a simple part, but there's nothing complicated about it, just labor intense. I'll help any way I can if you decide to tackle it yourself.
chttrbx
New member
You found two in each? I only pulled 1 from each, and yes used a coat hangar, I actually think I damaged one the seals, when I reinstalled the passenger side axle shaft.