Help me plan 1st winch installation?

USMC Wrangler

New member
I've used them at work successfully, but I have never installed a winch before. I will be ordering my EVO 1/4 pounder, stinger and Warn M8000S in the next few weeks. I've seen plenty of build threads detailing the bumper/stinger install, but do suck at electronics.

I've seen people mention to not connect the winch directly to the factory battery clamps. Where/how should it be done? Also, I have no auxiliary switches at all. Is there a simple switch I can use instead of something like the Painless setup?

Here's my shopping list.

-EVO 1/4 pounder
-EVO stinger
-Vacuum pump relo bracket (any brands better/easier to deal with?)
-Warn M-8000S
-Winch cover to protect synthetic line from the AZ sun
-12 volt power adapter from http://m.quadratec.com/products/product.php?pid=96080+9801
-Aux switch???

What else will I need? Thanks in advance!
 

ttfhell

New member
Right to the battery. No other way. Winch draws more than anything else, you don't want a switch in between the winch and battery.
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
Right to the battery. No other way. Winch draws more than anything else, you don't want a switch in between the winch and battery.

Thanks! The Warn setups at work all have an aux switch associated, which I why I asked. I didn't want to assume that was the only/correct way to do it in a JK.

So straight to the factory battery clamp is preferred as long as it's off one of the posts other than the clamping bolt?
 

ttfhell

New member
Thanks! The Warn setups at work all have an aux switch associated, which I why I asked. I didn't want to assume that was the only/correct way to do it in a JK.

So straight to the factory battery clamp is preferred as long as it's off one of the posts other than the clamping bolt?

Yes. The post won't allow the terminal to tighten all the way if you use it for accessories.
 

relicdigger

New member
Great question you are about 4 months ahead of me, due to the upstate NY weather being -13F with a windchill at -28F right now. I don't think you can go wrong with that set up.
 

USMC Wrangler

New member
Great question you are about 4 months ahead of me, due to the upstate NY weather being -13F with a windchill at -28F right now. I don't think you can go wrong with that set up.

I know there are bigger and better setups out there. This one is a balance of budget, quality and reality of my use. My DD Jeep doesn't get off pavement as much as I like, but when I do I want the investments I make to be functional.

I don't miss the cold winters. Stay warm!
 

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
Thanks! The Warn setups at work all have an aux switch associated, which I why I asked. I didn't want to assume that was the only/correct way to do it in a JK.

So straight to the factory battery clamp is preferred as long as it's off one of the posts other than the clamping bolt?

The instructions with my new M8000 said direct to the battery, so that's what I did.
 

WJCO

Meme King
As ttfhell said earlier, with the draw your winch will put out, you want it wired straight to the battery. Don't do it any other way. When you use your winch, leave the Jeep running so you don't drain the battery.
 

GraniteCrystal

New member
Be smart about where you run your wires. Lots of hot parts you don't want them touching. You can go thru the grill or under it and up.
 

highoctane

Caught the Bug
IF you wanted to add in a safety feature on your winch wiring, the Warn power interrupt kit is the only way to go.

https://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/power_interrupt.shtml


It's still getting power from the battery, but uses a properly sized relay that is also used inside many Warn winches. In the rare even that you rub a hole in your power wire, it won't arc on something under your hood and catch fire.

If you route the wires properly so that they are not chafing on something, you really don't need this kit.
 
Last edited:

DMF

Active Member
I have that winch and when I submerge my winch it lit my dash like a xmas tree on an offroading trip. Since then I added one of these inexpensive battery cable connector under the hood. Inconvenience yes but not being able to use my instrument gauges to get home was more.

6331G1.jpg
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
Those Anderson disconnects are nice.

I also disagree that hooking to the battery is the only way. I've used marine battery switches on 2 past installs and they worked great. Several reasons why you would want a disconnect- run away winch, foul play, shorted cable, etc. Having said that, I installed my direct because I was in a hurry and haven't had the time to find a good place for the switch, make the cable ends, etc.

I use this blue sea mini switch. Can handle plenty of amps and it's around $25.
6006200.png


https://www.bluesea.com/products/6006200/m-Series_Mini_On-Off_Battery_Switch_with__Knob_-_Black

Continuous Rating 300A
Intermittent Rating 500A (5 min)
Cranking Rating 10 sec 1500A
Cranking Rating 1 min 775A
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Have had my winch connected direct to my stock battery for 4 years with zero issues. Just swapped it out for a new one though cause it was time to upgrade. There is no draw on the battery from the winch unless it's in use so there is no reason not to go direct IMO.

A marine switch would be nice to add but there is no need. On a boat it's needed due to the bilge pump constantly being on.
 

lulu2533

New member
Have had my winch connected direct to my stock battery for 4 years with zero issues. Just swapped it out for a new one though cause it was time to upgrade. There is no draw on the battery from the winch unless it's in use so there is no reason not to go direct IMO.

A marine switch would be nice to add but there is no need. On a boat it's needed due to the bilge pump constantly being on.

Cozdude, what winch are you running? I am going to use my stock battery when I get a winch but feel my options are limited because of this.
 

WJCO

Meme King
Cozdude, what winch are you running? I am going to use my stock battery when I get a winch but feel my options are limited because of this.

I'm running a Zeon on a stock battery, works fine. Just an FYI. Your battery should be fine.
 

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1455988038.491074.jpg
There should be an extra bolt, sticking up on your negative terminal. I used an M6 flange nut, from Home Depot ($0.58) to attach the negative cable, there, and ran the positive to the row of 3 bolts behind the positive terminal.
 
Top Bottom