Have anyone install a mounted power converter in there jeep? and where to mount it?
- Thread starter Deuane
- Start date
Deuane
New member
I am just wondering where do you run the big cable to your battery, do u drill a hole to get to the battery?
Rubi Freak
Member
Run the cable along the passenger side and remove the side plate cover on the pasenger side of the dash. If i remember correctly, there is a hole that goes through the firewall and into the engine compartment. Hopefully these pics help you on the install.
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Gibbo
New member
rovingshoe
New member
I placed mine under the passenger seat. Occasionally someone will accidentally hit the power switch and turn it on, so I mounted a remote power switch on the dash that lights up when it is on.
The existing hole in the firewall already was used for some other DIY wires and the large power leads couldn't fit. I ended up routing power thru the floor drain hole to the engine bay. It actually routed to a very protected area under the Jeep. I then sealed up the drain hole with silicon. Easy to remove in the future if ever I need to drain out some water.
The existing hole in the firewall already was used for some other DIY wires and the large power leads couldn't fit. I ended up routing power thru the floor drain hole to the engine bay. It actually routed to a very protected area under the Jeep. I then sealed up the drain hole with silicon. Easy to remove in the future if ever I need to drain out some water.
Zstairlessone
New member
How are they hooked up in the new JK? Might give a good idea for the install.
Deuane
New member
I thought it would take me one day to do it, but end of having to finish it up tomorrow.. I will be finish up any loose end of having to get a ground wire for it, and reclamping the cable wire connector it seem to be loose, and putting my passage seat back...I been debating about the remote switch but decide to put the it on the center console..
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BaddestCross
Active Member
What kind of power tool? I used to run a 750W from HF in my work van to charge my DeWalt batteries and run a printer. I upgraded the printer to a color laser and the 750W did fine in the winter, but when the summer heat kicked in, the 750W couldn't handle it. I upgraded to a HF 3000W in hopes of being able to run a circular saw but no go. The printer works fine as long as the van is running. I heard that a true sine wave converter is much better, but haven't had time to do the research.
WJCO
Meme King
Most of my tools are cordless, so it's more for charging my cordless batteries, etc. I would like the ability to run a coffee pot on it though. It would be nice occasionally though if I were at home or helping a friend, where I could plug in something like a grinder, etc. I saw a little about the 'true sine wave' inverter as well, but don't fully understand it. I may spend more time looking into that.
DeJkUnlimited
Caught the Bug
Are you looking for an inverter that you can store and plug into a 12v socket/lighter when needed or something more permanent that's mounted and hardwired? I have a really nice Tripplite unit that was hardwired in my work van several years back, built like a brick shithouse right now it's rigged in a setup for emergency sump pump use in a power outage. Right now I use just a small one that plugs into the 12v power socket (purchased at Lowe's and I forget the brand) in the rear that does fine for cordless battery charging. You just want to make sure whatever one you choose will handle the load of the devices you plug into it. You'll probably want to be in the 600-1750 watt to run a small appliance and more for a power tool with a constant high amp draw. True sine wave probably isn't necessary unless it's critical for special devices that require a clean wave.
http://www.powerinverters.org/pages/Choosing-an-Inverter.html
http://www.powerinverters.org/pages/Choosing-an-Inverter.html
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WJCO
Meme King
Definitely going to hardwire it. I already have a couple of those smaller cigarette lighter ones. Thanks for that link, and I'll look into Tripplite as well.
here's a suggestion if you want to *armor* the power feed cables so they don't short out (hopefully there is a fuse in line as well).
You can buy tinned braid in a tube, or you can take RG-8 coax and strip the plastic covering and pull off the braid in a tube. Then bunch it up and run it over the cable where ever it goes through holes, etc.
Take some heatshrink and slide over this and shink the ends so that the braid doesn't unravel.
If you buy braid, you can get it in various diameters.
This stuff
You can buy tinned braid in a tube, or you can take RG-8 coax and strip the plastic covering and pull off the braid in a tube. Then bunch it up and run it over the cable where ever it goes through holes, etc.
Take some heatshrink and slide over this and shink the ends so that the braid doesn't unravel.
If you buy braid, you can get it in various diameters.
This stuff
WJCO
Meme King
That looks like some cool stuff. I'll keep that in mind for future projects for sure. On this inverter, I have an auxiliary power source in the back, so I'll likely put it right there and won't have to worry about running wires too far. But thanks for the info.
Ddays
Hooked
I've been lurking on this post because I've been thinking about this as well. I did some basic research and found some helpful sites. This is one
http://www.theinverterstore.com/12-volt-pure-sine-inverters.html
And this chart is helpful (there are a shitload more online) in figuring out wattage requirements:
http://www.theinverterstore.com/12-volt-pure-sine-inverters.html
And this chart is helpful (there are a shitload more online) in figuring out wattage requirements:
jesse3638
Hooked
I wouldn't try to run power tools off it. They have s heavy draw and will most likely trip the safety cut out. It's the initial start up of a tool that has the heavy draw. The stock inverter in my 12 Rubicon will charge my DeWalt batteries no problem.
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BaddestCross
Active Member
^^ this.
I figured the 3000W would handle the startup load of my saw because it has a surge rating of 7000W or something but no go. I know there's got to be something I'm missing. The pure sine is important for running sensitive electronics, but I think I read that it's necessary for some motors as well.
That being said, for a coffee pot, the 750W would probably be enough, but a grinder may be a problem. Battery charging is no problem at all.
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I bought one to use with in my cigarette lighter. got a good deal too at the Tosche Station during black friday sales.
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