Uneven brake wear?

Skeeterbait

Skeeterbait

New member
Happy Saturday!

What would cause excessive/uneven brake wear on the rear brakes? The passenger side, inside, rear pad is completely gone. While the outside pad and both pads on the other rear wheel have 1/4-3/8 (eye ball measured) left.

2013 JK Rubicon, 6 speed. Stock.
52K miles.

Thanks
Skeeterbait
 
Clark Griswold

Clark Griswold

New member
Seized caliper slider pin or whatever you call it, had the same thing with my 2013, caught it at 25k miles. Take it apart clean it up good with sand paper and regrease. Make sure the boot is not cut.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Skeeterbait said:
Happy Saturday!

What would cause excessive/uneven brake wear on the rear brakes? The passenger side, inside, rear pad is completely gone. While the outside pad and both pads on the other rear wheel have 1/4-3/8 (eye ball measured) left.

2013 JK Rubicon, 6 speed. Stock.
52K miles.

Thanks
Skeeterbait
Click to expand...

Typically when an inboard pad wears out faster than an outboard pad, it's a caliper problem. Wheras an outboard pad wearing out faster is usually a hardware problem. When you go to replace the pads, if that caliper piston has more resistance when compressing it compared to the other side, that caliper is your issue.
 
JAGS

JAGS

Hooked
Not totally uncommon on the rear. Brakes That is where traction control kicks in. So if you wheel and your traction kicks in on occasion you'll go through the inner rear brakes faster.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
my 2010 wore out in the exact same way at about 10,000 miles. Dealer offered to repair it but I went aftermarket.

I was told it's common in many cars, not just Jeeps as that's also the furthest point and 1st to get pressure when applying the brakes.
 
Skeeterbait

Skeeterbait

New member
Took the pics, but forgot to post them.
Looks like Clark Griswald had it. I was able to almost completely seat the caliper by hand on both sides. But it looked like the pad in question was seized or rusted to the little retainer clip so it couldn't completely back off the rotor.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1460469815.795522.jpg inside rotor

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1460469858.095366.jpg worn pad versus new

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1460469905.994472.jpg "other wheel" new vs old
 
rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
sipafz said:
Never Seize - use it on the caliper slide pins to prevent this from happening again!
Click to expand...

U actually want to use molly lube on caliper slides. Antiseize and Molly lube are not the same. Molybdenum is for caliper slides, Antiseize is for threads.
 
sipafz

sipafz

Caught the Bug
rinkishjk said:
U actually want to use molly lube on caliper slides. Antiseize and Molly lube are not the same. Molybdenum is for caliper slides, Antiseize is for threads.
Click to expand...

Hmm, and to think that I've never had a problem after doing it wrong for the last 30 years.
 
rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
sipafz said:
Hmm, and to think that I've never had a problem after doing it wrong for the last 30 years.
Click to expand...

That's great. Glad it's worked out for u. Most people have no idea what moly lube is, nor it's proper use. Same goes with antiseize, after all it's not Frank's red hot sauce.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
I've always used the packets you get from the parts store or the like. I don't use a lot of it, maybe a 1/16" layer where it's needed. I've had good luck with it.
 
rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
WJCO said:
I've always used the packets you get from the parts store or the like. I don't use a lot of it, maybe a 1/16" layer where it's needed. I've had good luck with it.
Click to expand...

Yea that's molly lube. That's what u should use. Moly uses graphite as the lube, whereas antiseize has metal in it.
 
sipafz

sipafz

Caught the Bug
rinkishjk said:
after all it's not Frank's red hot sauce.
Click to expand...
That made me laugh! [emoji38]
rinkishjk said:
Yea that's molly lube. That's what u should use. Moly uses graphite as the lube, whereas antiseize has metal in it.
Click to expand...
Yes, anti-seize has aluminum or copper flakes depending on the brand. Thats what makes it work great for this application! The hardened pins ride in hardened bushings pressed into the calipers. The soft metal in the anti-seize stays between the hard surfaces keeping them free and lubricated. Moly is a great lubricant and I use it all the time, but not near my brakes. I have used moly in the past and It's been my experience that it tends to dry out due to heating and cooling causing squeaking during low speed light braking and seizing like the OP described. Anyway that's what I do and have had good results.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
sipafz said:
....... Moly is a great lubricant and I use it all the time, but not near my brakes.......
Click to expand...

Whoa......easy there, partner....... :cheesy:

I myself have never used anti-seize in brake applications, but glad to hear you've had luck with it.
 
sipafz

sipafz

Caught the Bug
WJCO said:
Whoa......easy there, partner....... :cheesy:

I myself have never used anti-seize in brake applications, but glad to hear you've had luck with it.
Click to expand...

Don't get me worked up about never-seize! Hahaha [emoji38] l have a big jar!
 
WW_Svi

WW_Svi

New member
In parts that are not solidly connected such as splined shafts, sliding pins, and etc. the constant vibration and moving of the two parts can wear faster due to anti seize. Anti seize was designed for parts that are solid connection such as a bolt. Grease was designed for parts that are moving.

This doesn't mean that it won't work in other applications like others have said here, however there is a proper tool for every job. A crescent will work but you should be using a wrench....
 
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