Dana 44 build up guidance

jcslax17 · Feb 23, 2016

This past weekend I picked up a front dana 44 housing with factory locker and gears but nothing else for 300 dollars. My plans for it are to buy the Evo sleeves and gussets and the dynatrac balljoints but not sure what knuckles ( been looking at Reid racing ones) , tie rod, steering stabilizer, drag link, etc etc to go with.. I also plan on having it and my rear axle regeared so suggestions on which brand gears as well

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

MR.Ty · Feb 23, 2016

Don't waste your money on sleeves or the Reid Knuckles.

Re-use your Dana 30 knuckles. They are the same as the 44s.

What tire size do you plan on going to?

AllAmericanInfidel · Feb 23, 2016

jcslax17 said:
This past weekend I picked up a front dana 44 housing with factory locker and gears but nothing else for 300 dollars. My plans for it are to buy the Evo sleeves and gussets and the dynatrac balljoints but not sure what knuckles ( been looking at Reid racing ones) , tie rod, steering stabilizer, drag link, etc etc to go with.. I also plan on having it and my rear axle regeared so suggestions on which brand gears as well

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I agree with Ty, don't waste your money on sleeves. Definitely do C gussets. Reuse your D30 knuckles, and I would go with a stock steering stabilizer too. A properly set up steering doesn't even need a stabilizer, unless you just want to spend money or to look cool. As far as brands of gears, most come from the same factory in South Korea, so just find the best price. Are you planning on 35s or 37s?

jcslax17 · Feb 23, 2016

MR.Ty said:
Don't waste your money on sleeves or the Reid Knuckles.

Re-use your Dana 30 knuckles. They are the same as the 44s.

What tire size do you plan on going to?

AllAmericanInfidel said:
I agree with Ty, don't waste your money on sleeves. Definitely do C gussets. Reuse your D30 knuckles, and I would go with a stock steering stabilizer too. A properly set up steering doesn't even need a stabilizer, unless you just want to spend money or to look cool. As far as brands of gears, most come from the same factory in South Korea, so just find the best price. Are you planning on 35s or 37s?

I plan on going to 35s and 37s farther down the road

CCJKUR · Feb 23, 2016

C gussets for sure. I'm building my 44 now to and I'm doing the currie gussets ball joints axles and gears.

xflstl · Feb 23, 2016

I just bought a 44 housing as well. I'm going with nitro no weld sleeves, evo gussets and truss. Arb 35 spline locker and rcv's, 4.88 gears.. Hoping to make it last for years to come.

jorgelrod · Feb 23, 2016

xflstl said:
I just bought a 44 housing as well. I'm going with nitro no weld sleeves, evo gussets and truss. Arb 35 spline locker and rcv's, 4.88 gears.. Hoping to make it last for years to come.

You should check first, I think I read somewhere, 35 spline shafts do not fit with inner sleeves or something to that effect...

**Update** The Nitro ones say the support 35 splines, but still make sure before you commit to buying

xflstl · Feb 23, 2016

jorgelrod said:
You should check first, I think I read somewhere, 35 spline shafts do not fit with inner sleeves or something to that effect...

Thanks for the tip, and your correct. They don't on most sleeves, however the nitro one allow the use of 35 spline shafts....

jcslax17 · Feb 23, 2016

With doing the c gussets should I leave the old ball joints in ( they are bad) when having the gussets welded on or should they come out? Or does it not matter either way? Should I bother with a truss? There's a guy on Craigslist around me trying to sell a full artec truss kit for 250

xflstl · Feb 23, 2016

jcslax17 said:
With doing the c gussets should I leave the old ball joints in ( they are bad) when having the gussets welded on or should they come out? Or does it not matter either way? Should I bother with a truss? There's a guy on Craigslist around me trying to sell a full artec truss kit for 250

As far as the truss goes, opinions will vary, and the only thing wrong with a truss is a bad install that might damage the axle.... If the ball joints are bad, put the gussets on before replacing the ball joints...

CCJKUR · Feb 23, 2016

jcslax17 said:
With doing the c gussets should I leave the old ball joints in ( they are bad) when having the gussets welded on or should they come out? Or does it not matter either way? Should I bother with a truss? There's a guy on Craigslist around me trying to sell a full artec truss kit for 250

I just leave the old ball joints in weld the C gussets on that once done put the new ball joints in.

The truss I hear both sides of the story it's worth it its not etc....

Inot my opinion it can't hurt looks cool and does ad support better linking the center section of the axle to the tubes

jagrubb99 · Feb 23, 2016

CCJKUR said:
I just leave the old ball joints in weld the C gussets on that once done put the new ball joints in.

The truss I hear both sides of the story it's worth it its not etc....

Inot my opinion it can't hurt looks cool and does ad support better linking the center section of the axle to the tubes

Trusses are a waste of money IMHO. From everything I have observed, almost all axle tube breaks or bends either occur at the C's or at the base of the pumpkin, which is not supported by a truss in either situation. Just my opinion but you can do what you want with your rig

OverlanderJK · Feb 23, 2016

CCJKUR said:
I just leave the old ball joints in weld the C gussets on that once done put the new ball joints in.

The truss I hear both sides of the story it's worth it its not etc....

Inot my opinion it can't hurt looks cool and does ad support better linking the center section of the axle to the tubes

Fuck it if it looks cool then it's worth fucking up your axle.

cozdude · Feb 23, 2016

OverlanderJK said:
Fuck it if it looks cool then it's worth fucking up your axle.

It's all about the cool factor

notnalc68 · Feb 23, 2016

A truss sounds like something for an old man's balls.

jcslax17 · Feb 23, 2016

OverlanderJK said:
Fuck it if it looks cool then it's worth fucking up your axle.

cozdude said:
It's all about the cool factor

The cool factor itself is stronger than the truss I heard

CCJKUR · Feb 23, 2016

jagrubb99 said:
Trusses are a waste of money IMHO. From everything I have observed, almost all axle tube breaks or bends either occur at the C's or at the base of the pumpkin, which is not supported by a truss in either situation. Just my opinion but you can do what you want with your rig

If it fails at the base of the pumpkin wouldn't a truss help stop that fail?

jagrubb99 · Feb 23, 2016

CCJKUR said:
If it fails at the base of the pumpkin wouldn't a truss help stop that fail?

Trusses have hardly any support between the axle tube and pumpkin. They only connect between the two axle tubes

jagrubb99 · Feb 23, 2016

cozdude said:
It's all about the cool factor

Trusses add 50+ hp

CCJKUR · Feb 23, 2016

jagrubb99 said:
Trusses have hardly any support between the axle tube and pumpkin. They only connect between the two axle tubes

Didn't know that. Always thought since it is welded to the pumpkin and the tubes it would better tie it all together.

I'll be scratching that off my list than.

Dana 44 build up guidance

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