Currie Johnny Joints

Hammmerhead

Hammmerhead

Member
Just picked up a use Rubi with what looks like to me Johnny joints. Anyway the drivers side lower joint is twisted a good bit to one side. Also, the grease zerks are caged under the control arm bracket where I cant get to. I understand you cant have them pointed down for getting knocked off, but do I have to drop every arm to grease them? Surely there is an obvious answer to this. thank guys
 
shadowpaige64507

shadowpaige64507

Member
Welcome to WAL. I would recommend you go over and introduce yourself in the "Give a Wave" section. Otherwise it might be a rough start here on WAL.

I have some of mine on the bottom side for that reason. If they get knocked off I'll deal with it at that point.
 
piginajeep

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
Hammmerhead said:
Just picked up a use Rubi with what looks like to me Johnny joints. Anyway the drivers side lower joint is twisted a good bit to one side. Also, the grease zerks are caged under the control arm bracket where I cant get to. I understand you cant have them pointed down for getting knocked off, but do I have to drop every arm to grease them? Surely there is an obvious answer to this. thank guys
Click to expand...

Post some pics, it'll help identify the joint
 
Hammmerhead

Hammmerhead

Member
piginajeep said:
Post some pics, it'll help identify the joint
Click to expand...


thanks all. Here is a pic. You cant see the zerk real well, but its at the top of the joint towards the back caged under the bracket. No greasable bolts on them either. I find it hard to believe that even before the greasable bolt was used on the jj's that everyone had to drop an arm to grease it. I don't know how much give these jj's have, but this one may be toast.

BA4800EB-CE1E-41E9-A0F6-188D165B5C81.jpg
 
piginajeep

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
Hammmerhead said:
thanks all. Here is a pic. You cant see the zerk real well, but its at the top of the joint towards the back caged under the bracket. No greasable bolts on them either. I find it hard to believe that even before the greasable bolt was used on the jj's that everyone had to drop an arm to grease it. I don't know how much give these jj's have, but this one may be toast.

View attachment 189965
Click to expand...

More than likely it just needs taken apart, cleaned and greased. You'll need a JJ told from Currie. Damn near impossible to do without it. The bushing ate cheap so you might as well buy a couple when your order the tool.

I installed a 90 zerk on mine, so I could grease it.
 
Hammmerhead

Hammmerhead

Member
piginajeep said:
More than likely it just needs taken apart, cleaned and greased. You'll need a JJ told from Currie. Damn near impossible to do without it. The bushing ate cheap so you might as well buy a couple when your order the tool.

I installed a 90 zerk on mine, so I could grease it.
Click to expand...


Thanks Pig. Im thinking whoever did this build didn't think about tomorrow or any maintenance. Maybe I will get lucky and it wont be bad. This thing is sitting on 40's and I don't know if I have stands tall enough to get the joint full droop and stands under the frame. Can I drop one arm end at a time without lifting the Jeep or would that spell disaster?
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Hammmerhead said:
Thanks Pig. Im thinking whoever did this build didn't think about tomorrow or any maintenance. Maybe I will get lucky and it wont be bad. This thing is sitting on 40's and I don't know if I have stands tall enough to get the joint full droop and stands under the frame. Can I drop one arm end at a time without lifting the Jeep or would that spell disaster?
Click to expand...

You can do it without lifting it, but having a helper and/or ratchet strap helps. But yes, one at a time!
 
NastyNate

NastyNate

Member
Hammmerhead said:
Thanks Pig. Im thinking whoever did this build didn't think about tomorrow or any maintenance. Maybe I will get lucky and it wont be bad. This thing is sitting on 40's and I don't know if I have stands tall enough to get the joint full droop and stands under the frame. Can I drop one arm end at a time without lifting the Jeep or would that spell disaster?
Click to expand...

you can also take the tires off so you dont have to go up so high ...or just do what WJCO said.
 
T

T&ERun

LOSER
As posted above, you can remove one arm while it's sitting on the ground. To realign the bolt hole (when you go to put it back together) use a jack on the front of the diff or the rear of the diff depending on which way the axle needs to move to realign to insert the bolt. You can also reinstall it with the zerk fitting facing down. Replace the zerk fitting with a hex head bolt and you can reinstall when you want to grease.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
I have 37's and set my zerks up the same way, it is a PIA when it comes time to grease but don't have to replace zerks as often.

It's easier to leave it on the ground and drop just the end that needs grease (loosen the other end) the axle shouldn't move on you. be ready to catch that arm, it hurts lol. Doing one arm end at a time.

I like to leave all the arms loose until I'm finished all the way around, that give me the chance to jounce (relax) the suspension and then torque everything back up

Have a ratchet strap handy in case you need it, makes it easy pull the axle back into place if you need to. :beer:
 
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rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
I have Currie arms, and mine came with 90 degree fittings. They are angled such that I can get the grease gun onto them from either side on the top of the arm. There is no need for me to remove the bolt, or jack it up.
 
MedixJK

MedixJK

-
If your worried about the JJ looking like its twisted, i had the same issue. I was assured that it wasnt a big deal by some veteran wheelers on WAL. As long as the two ends are in line when the arms are installed,i was told (and shown pictures) its common for them to sit tilted to one side or the other, as the will shift around as you drive/wheel your rig.
 
G

gary2

Member
JJs will always flop around as they need to which hurts nothing . The main thing to watch is the joints on each end are parallel or lined up with each other. If the joints are lined up just twist the arm so the joints can be greased. They turn hard when new its just a nice tight joint and hardly ever need grease. You may need to put a large wrench on the Jam nut to rotate in it one direction as long as its the same direction as tightening it would be or as I do just throw a pipe wrench on it . You may need to loosen the jam nut to get each end lined up with each other. When tightening the Jam nut rotate the arm and the loose joint all the way to one side so the control arm mounts hold them from moving when you tighten the jam nut. After you tighten the jam nuts I usually just leave them where ever they are as they will rotate where ever they need to be when the suspension flexes. Some arms have a Clevite type joint/bushing on one end that will recenter the joints after flexing. On the lower fronts I prefer JJs on both ends to locate the front axle more securely which cuts down on steering correction when driving on the road. Arms with JJs have flopped around as needed as long as their has been arms made with JJs on both ends.
 
Hammmerhead

Hammmerhead

Member
Thanks again for all the info guys. Im going to have time to check out the jj's this weekend and hit them all with some grease. It will be easier than I thought not having to get it in the air. Im glad to hear that them being tilted that extreme is normal as I was having a quiet muffler put on today and I could see a couple in the rear were tilted or turned a bit too. I was thinking they needed to self level like a neoprene styled joint.


BTW. Got to put 100 miles of interstate driving on it today at 70-75 mph. Its a little bit of a handful, but its windy as heck here. Im guessing the 40 X 15.50 X 20s isn't helping matters. Should I even bother going to a 38 X 13.50 or just drop on down to a
37 X13.50? I have 4.88 gears
 
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