Trying to track down negative camber on passenger side

Hammmerhead

Member
I bought a slightly used Rubi JKU, it has 12K miles. Coil over setup and the last 7K miles with 40X15.50X20" Toyos on 12 wide rims and 1 inch spacers.
I know its a little over the top and isn't going to drive like it has 35s or even 37's, but it is what it is and the 40's sure look good. My crude measurements using an iPhone roughly showed 1.5 to 1.9 deg. neg. iPhone isn't perfectly flat with the side button and made it a little worse even though I pushed on it. Its visually noticeable compared to the drivers side, especially to me. Tires are wearing great. Well tonight I pulled the stock ball joints and the upper was frozen solid and I don't know if it should be that way from its design. The bottom was easily moveable with one finger and was well broke in and loose. However, I couldn't find any vertical slop in it even though it was loose. Im a little older and the old stuff I use to work on, well parts didn't get changed unless they were obviously "shot."

Anyway, Im wondering if that plastic bushing in the lower showed more slop with the leverage of the Jeep on it or if its not that bad.

I can't find any tweaks in the C's or the housing. It drives pretty well all considering, but at times it will take a good little hunt usually to the right or passenger side direction and it seems to be that passenger front tire feeling a little loose and it by itself hunting on troughed out asphalt. Interstate at 70ish mph it seems fine and runs pretty straight. Im hoping that lower ball joint is wore and I can get some post camber back and lose that single tire hunt.

Im just wondering if a new set of Poly Ball joints will get rid at least a bit of the negative camber or should I get a set of 1 deg positive offset Moogs?
 
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USMC Wrangler

New member
Edit: don't pay attention to my ramble below. My info is off due to me not paying attention.

I had the same problem with the camber being different on the pass side vs the drivers and flighty steering. I first thought I had a bent front LCA. It measured almost .25" shorter under load than the drivers. Later on it was discovered the bushing in the factory arm was shot. To fix this, I bought/installed adjustable front lca's. After setting them correctly my Jeep drives great. If you have adjustable control arms, you can get this dialed in.

I don't know about balljoints since I still have the factory joints.
 
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WJCO

Meme King
I had the same problem with the camber being different on the pass side vs the drivers and flighty steering. I first thought I had a bent front LCA. It measured almost .25" shorter under load than the drivers. Later on it was discovered the bushing in the factory arm was shot. To fix this, I bought/installed adjustable front lca's. After setting them correctly my Jeep drives great. If you have adjustable control arms, you can get this dialed in.

I don't know about balljoints since I still have the factory joints.

If I remember right, yours was a caster problem, not a camber problem.
 

thesavagelif3

New member
I had this issue on my TJ, yes I know it's a whole different beast, but removing the spacers straightened it all up. Something about there being a slight angle to the Cs from factory and the further out you space the wheel the more dramatic the angle becomes
 

WJCO

Meme King
I had this issue on my TJ, yes I know it's a whole different beast, but removing the spacers straightened it all up. Something about there being a slight angle to the Cs from factory and the further out you space the wheel the more dramatic the angle becomes

Did you have hubcentric spacers? Doesn't seem like spacers would affect your camber angle unless they were defective or not installed flush.
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
Did you have hubcentric spacers? Doesn't seem like spacers would affect your camber angle unless they were defective or not installed flush.

Wouldn't that make the tire wobble? You would have different camber as the jeep rolled, and would look funny.....
 

jeeeep

Hooked
I bought a slightly used Rubi JKU, it has 12K miles. Coil over setup and the last 7K miles with 40X15.50X20" Toyos on 12 wide rims and 1 inch spacers.
I know its a little over the top and isn't going to drive like it has 35s or even 37's, but it is what it is and the 40's sure look good. My crude measurements using an iPhone roughly showed 1.5 to 1.9 deg. neg. iPhone isn't perfectly flat with the side button and made it a little worse even though I pushed on it. Its visually noticeable compared to the drivers side, especially to me. Tires are wearing great. Well tonight I pulled the stock ball joints and the upper was frozen solid and I don't know if it should be that way from its design. The bottom was easily moveable with one finger and was well broke in and loose. However, I couldn't find any vertical slop in it even though it was loose. Im a little older and the old stuff I use to work on, well parts didn't get changed unless they were obviously "shot."

Anyway, Im wondering if that plastic bushing in the lower showed more slop with the leverage of the Jeep on it or if its not that bad.

I can't find any tweaks in the C's or the housing. It drives pretty well all considering, but at times it will take a good little hunt usually to the right or passenger side direction and it seems to be that passenger front tire feeling a little loose and it by itself hunting on troughed out asphalt. Interstate at 70ish mph it seems fine and runs pretty straight. Im hoping that lower ball joint is wore and I can get some post camber back and lose that single tire hunt.

Im just wondering if a new set of Poly Ball joints will get rid at least a bit of the negative camber or should I get a set of 1 deg positive offset Moogs?

top ball joint shouldn't be frozen solid.

do you have a flip drag link?

what axles are on it? stock? did you check your hub bushing?

did you remove the spacers and make sure the brake hub is flat, no temp washers on it (the ones from factory to hold the brake hub)

pics?
 

Hammmerhead

Member
Thanks for all the replies guys.




top ball joint shouldn't be frozen solid.

do you have a flip drag link?

what axles are on it? stock? did you check your hub bushing?

did you remove the spacers and make sure the brake hub is flat, no temp washers on it (the ones from factory to hold the brake hub)

pics?

Yes, have the drag link flipped. No slack in D link, tie rod etc. Stock Rubi 44's. Bearing seems smooth. I didn't notice any spacers anywhere at all when I pulled everything. Do you want a pic of the C or one with the Jeep sitting with tires on?

Thx
 

jeeeep

Hooked
try to get a front pic of the whole axle sitting on the tires.

running 40's on a stock axle ...I'm thinking the axle may be smiling, have you put a level across the tubes to see if it's straight?
 

Hammmerhead

Member
try to get a front pic of the whole axle sitting on the tires.

running 40's on a stock axle ...I'm thinking the axle may be smiling, have you put a level across the tubes to see if it's straight?


Sorry, these pics are not that convincing on the negative camber. I'm hoping the frozen upper BJ has something to do with it. And I mean it was solid frozen and wouldn't budge even tapping with a 6lb mini sledge. I also listed a video showing how
loose the lower was.



2572eaca-4bde-4c95-8cf9-76e15123f649.png


58EDE23D-2BFC-48B4-A74E-CDB354EFCDBB.png


[video]http://vid55.photobucket.com/albums/g152/JMC_711/7A549854-FA0C-47C7-BFA8-49E8AB980DC2.mp4[/video]
 

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Hammmerhead

Member
I just picked up a set Synergy's BJ's for both sides. I read too many bad stories about the Moog's and really didn't want to have to go to a positive cam BJ. Low and behold sitting in the parking lot was another JK with 33's or 35's and it had the same slight negative lean on the passenger side as well.
 

Hammmerhead

Member
I was reminded last night why you pay someone to install ball joints. Got the passenger side upper and lower in and it took almost all of the negative camber out, also no more driveway clunk when backing out. It also seems to be a little tighter and less flighty. I also swapped the lower coils on the front shocks to 300's and it almost feels like it rides better. I gained an inch of clearance easy, which I needed to kill the rake. After a tire rotation, I decided to save the drivers side BJ's for a rainy day or when I start feeling them.
 

jeeeep

Hooked
that's great, gotta like it when it works out.

every time I start on the Jeep I add 2 hours to what I think it'll take :thumb:
 
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