Front Drive Shaft Dillema

swampdog

swampdog

New member
OK, so here is the background information first... 13 JKU Sahara, 2.5" RK lift, upgraded 35 spline rear Dana 44 with ARB Locker, Gusseted D30 Front, 4.88 Gears, currently 35" BFG KO2's

After my last trip to Uwharrie, I came home and did a full inspection of the rig. I noticed the boot on the front drive shaft has a few small tears on it. Yuck. Anyways, as I plan to have this rig for a LONG time and eventually upgrade to 37" tires and a PR44 front, it seems like I need to bite the bullet and order a new front drive shaft, right? A replacement boot is a bad idea? I am confused on a few things:

1) As I am eventually going to a 37" tire (12-18 months out), I would assume I should go with a 1350 shaft, not the 1310, correct?
2) If so, does the 1350 shaft put any added strain on the D30 I currently have? I would like to get as much time out of the D30 as possible.
3) Eventually I will land on a PR44 front axle, will the jump from the D30 to PR44 change anything regarding the drive shaft that would make me have to buy another shaft when I upgrade?
4) Coast vs. Reel vs. Adams? Any benefit to one vs the other?

I want to get this taken care of before the Windrock trip May 13-15. As always, thanks for the help WAL.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Some people sell stock front shafts for dirty cheap or even give them away. I would search craigslist first to see if you can just find one
 
swampdog

swampdog

New member
cozdude said:
Some people sell stock front shafts for dirty cheap or even give them away. I would search craigslist first to see if you can just find one
Click to expand...

Already have been searching 400 mile radius on CL for this...nothing. The CL jeep parts game is pretty weak around North Carolina.
 
blackrubi14

blackrubi14

Member
swampdog said:
1) As I am eventually going to a 37" tire (12-18 months out), I would assume I should go with a 1350 shaft, not the 1310, correct?
2) If so, does the 1350 shaft put any added strain on the D30 I currently have? I would like to get as much time out of the D30 as possible.
3) Eventually I will land on a PR44 front axle, will the jump from the D30 to PR44 change anything regarding the drive shaft that would make me have to buy another shaft when I upgrade?
4) Coast vs. Reel vs. Adams? Any benefit to one vs the other?

I want to get this taken care of before the Windrock trip May 13-15. As always, thanks for the help WAL.
Click to expand...

I'll give this a shot.

1) Yes, I would go 1350, especially if 37's are on the horizon.
2) I wouldn't think a 1350 drive shaft would add any more strain over the stock drive shaft.
3) I don't think so but I'm not 100% sure on this.
4) I can only speak of JE Reel as I have no experience with Adams or Coast. Having said that, i recently installed a 1350 JE Reel front drive shaft and have had zero issues, no vibration and fairly easy install, did have to trim the shifter bracket to clear the yoke at the transfer case. I've heard good things about Coast as well.
 
Peak

Peak

New member
From what I've read, no personal experience...If you do go with a 1350 you run a higher risk of damaging gears in your dana 30 because the 1350 u joint will hold up. A 1310 u joint will break before the gears take damage.
 
DWiggles

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
I'm running a 1310 in the front (d44) and HEAVY 37s
 

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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Peak said:
From what I've read, no personal experience...If you do go with a 1350 you run a higher risk of damaging gears in your dana 30 because the 1350 u joint will hold up. A 1310 u joint will break before the gears take damage.
Click to expand...

My gut feeling would be this as well. Your R&P in the D30 is a weak point (especially with your new smaller gears) and by strengthening everything around it, it has even more chance of breaking under extreme use. So go ahead and do it and you'll be even closer in time to that PR44.
 
DWiggles

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
Peak said:
From what I've read, no personal experience...If you do go with a 1350 you run a higher risk of damaging gears in your dana 30 because the 1350 u joint will hold up. A 1310 u joint will break before the gears take damage.
Click to expand...

WJCO said:
My gut feeling would be this as well. Your R&P in the D30 is a weak point (especially with your new smaller gears) and by strengthening everything around it, it has even more chance of breaking under extreme use. So go ahead and do it and you'll be even closer in time to that PR44.
Click to expand...

My 1310 shaft is brand new, but this EXACTLY is the reasoning for choosing a 1310 Driveline. I would rather break the external driveline then an internal axle shaft. Its MUCH easier to pull the driveline rather than limp around risking carrier/locker damage with a broken axle shaft... :twocents: That being said, I am running a 1350 rear driveline... because I had a little extra cash, and you cant drive home without a rear driveline...
 
scull20

scull20

New member
swampdog said:
Already have been searching 400 mile radius on CL for this...nothing. The CL jeep parts game is pretty weak around North Carolina.
Click to expand...

Ill have my stock front driveshaft sitting around in a matter of hopefully a week or so. Its yours for the shipping cost to NC from NJ.

Let me know if you end up wanting it.

Ryan
 
swampdog

swampdog

New member
scull20 said:
Ill have my stock front driveshaft sitting around in a matter of hopefully a week or so. Its yours for the shipping cost to NC from NJ.

Let me know if you end up wanting it.

Ryan
Click to expand...

My rig is a 6 speed. Thanks for the offer though brah.
 
Heavyhaul07

Heavyhaul07

New member
Off topic to the original poster. What are your rpms say at 70 with the 4:88 and 35's. I run 35 and have a manual also. I'm about to do my gears and am curious Thank u
 
swampdog

swampdog

New member
Bumping up the original question for any more input. The boot has major tearing now and it's a matter of time before it craps out, and I will be switching from 2.5 to 3.5" coils so a stock shaft will bit be an option.

Those with experience here that haven't weighed in, what say you?
 
Evil

Evil

New member
I know the Adams 1310 is rated for 37's and a mild beating. When I originally ordered the front shaft, I was under the impression I had a 1350 to match the rear I was getting installed later on but was sold a 1310, this was over the phone and from another co, not Adams themselves. After getting my rear done and talking to the guys at Adams they advised I leave the 1310 on the front just to see what happens and how long it will take me to kill it, they also hooked up a 1350 front like I had originally wanted and thought I paid for so we will see. To the point, the 1310 can hang. Any aftermarket 1310 is going to be stronger than stock because of better joints used. If you did go a 1350, the next weakest link would be the ring and pinion and the axle shafts and IMO its easier to kill a axle shaft then a ring and pinion.

Sorry I didn't multi quote but too DWiggles point, he is spot on with what a lot of guys do but are afraid to tell anyone that they have done.

I went all Squirrel

1) As I am eventually going to a 37" tire (12-18 months out), I would assume I should go with a 1350 shaft, not the 1310, correct? THIS IS CORRECT, A 1310 WILL WORK BUT NOT HAMMERING THE SHIT OUT OF IT AND ROCK CRAWLING
2) If so, does the 1350 shaft put any added strain on the D30 I currently have? I would like to get as much time out of the D30 as possible. YES IT WILL, SEE ABOVE
3) Eventually I will land on a PR44 front axle, will the jump from the D30 to PR44 change anything regarding the drive shaft that would make me have to buy another shaft when I upgrade? IT DEPENDS ON IF THE 30 TOKES WILL WORK A 44
4) Coast vs. Reel vs. Adams? Any benefit to one vs the other? I LIKE ADAMS, JUT A PREFERENSE AS THEY HAVE DONE A SHIT LOAD OF WORK ON MY JEEP AND MUSTANG. REEL IS ALSO GOOD AS I HAVE HAD THEIR SHAFT ON MY JK BUT LATER SWAITCHED OUT TO ADAMS
 
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JeepJeep75

JeepJeep75

New member
Swampdog. Since you are going to go to a PR44 up front, don't settle for the 1310 just to save your D30 that your gonna get rid of soon. Spend the extra $100-150 and get the 1350. Think of your end goal. You will have a bomb proof front DL and an axle that will easily handle 37's. I do agree with the logic of having a "fuse" that is easily fixed on the trail, but your end goal of a PR44 with a 1350 will be pretty hard to break unless you are a full-throttle-bust-through kind of driver. My $0.02
 
JeepJeep75

JeepJeep75

New member
I was just on the phone yesterday ordering a 1350 Adams. After talking with (I forget his name, nice guy though) I decided to get the 1350. I'm gonna run my Rubi44 with 35's until it wears out or let's go. I figure my "fuse" will be the 35's, (after I get chromo shafts) but if I do decide to upgrade to a PR44 I won't have to worry about my front DL.
 
croge17

croge17

New member
swampdog said:
Bumping up the original question for any more input. The boot has major tearing now and it's a matter of time before it craps out, and I will be switching from 2.5 to 3.5" coils so a stock shaft will bit be an option.

Those with experience here that haven't weighed in, what say you?
Click to expand...


Call olivers driveshaft in Winston Salem. They are local build great shafts... I run one.

Go 1310 and use the driveshaft as a fusible link. A 1310 shaft will take some abuse too. I run 37's locked with 35 spline shafts on a d44 and dont take it easy on the skinny pedal and havent had a problem. Keep in mind that traction kills parts and we dont have lots of traction on this side of the country. The guys at olivers will be glad to talk to you about recomendations too...

I have run thier shafts in buggies, jeeps, toyotas, etc. Never and issue and bent one shaft that was 1/4" wall tube and they retubed and balanced it for free. Going local has advantages.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Evil said:
I know the Adams 1310 is rated for 37's and a mild beating. When I originally ordered the front shaft, I was under the impression I had a 1350 to match the rear I was getting installed later on but was sold a 1310, this was over the phone and from another co, not Adams themselves. After getting my rear done and talking to the guys at Adams they advised I leave the 1310 on the front just to see what happens and how long it will take me to kill it, they also hooked up a 1350 front like I had originally wanted and thought I paid for so we will see. To the point, the 1310 can hang. Any aftermarket 1310 is going to be stronger than stock because of better joints used. If you did go a 1350, the next weakest link would be the ring and pinion and the axle shafts and IMO its easier to kill a axle shaft then a ring and pinion.

Sorry I didn't multi quote but too DWiggles point, he is spot on with what a lot of guys do but are afraid to tell anyone that they have done.

I went all Squirrel

1) As I am eventually going to a 37" tire (12-18 months out), I would assume I should go with a 1350 shaft, not the 1310, correct? THIS IS CORRECT, A 1310 WILL WORK BUT NOT HAMMERING THE SHIT OUT OF IT AND ROCK CRAWLING
2) If so, does the 1350 shaft put any added strain on the D30 I currently have? I would like to get as much time out of the D30 as possible. YES IT WILL, SEE ABOVE
3) Eventually I will land on a PR44 front axle, will the jump from the D30 to PR44 change anything regarding the drive shaft that would make me have to buy another shaft when I upgrade? IT DEPENDS ON IF THE 30 TOKES WILL WORK A 44
4) Coast vs. Reel vs. Adams? Any benefit to one vs the other? I LIKE ADAMS, JUT A PREFERENSE AS THEY HAVE DONE A SHIT LOAD OF WORK ON MY JEEP AND MUSTANG. REEL IS ALSO GOOD AS I HAVE HAD THEIR SHAFT ON MY JK BUT LATER SWAITCHED OUT TO ADAMS
Click to expand...

Umm false. A 1310 is not stronger than stock. Stock is 1330.

I can't comment on anything else because I stopped reading after you said that.
 
Benito

Benito

Caught the Bug
OverlanderJK said:
Umm false. A 1310 is not stronger than stock. Stock is 1330.
Click to expand...

This is true. the reason why anyone needs to upgrade to an aftermarket with a u-joint is because the stock can't handle the strain on the cv style joints when we start to lift and increase the pinion angle, as well as the stupid plastic boot that tears and causes the stock shaft to eventually seize. Just go 1350, it's an upgrade, not a down grade.
 
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