Ome 2 inch lift questions

I'm installing my lift on Saturday. It's my first time lifting a rig so be patient with me.
I'm installing the HD 2inch lift and jks quicker discos for 2.5+ inches of lift (I've heard I'll get around 3" from this kit) and a teraflex exhaust spacer on an unlimited Willys wheeler
Will I need an adjustable track bar to center my front axle?
Will I need longer brake lines?
Is there any other additional equipment I need?
Any install tips would be appriciated.

Bluewillys said:

I'm installing my lift on Saturday. It's my first time lifting a rig so be patient with me.
I'm installing the HD 2inch lift and jks quicker discos for 2.5+ inches of lift (I've heard I'll get around 3" from this kit) and a teraflex exhaust spacer on an unlimited Willys wheeler
Will I need an adjustable track bar to center my front axle?
Will I need longer brake lines?
Is there any other additional equipment I need?
Any install tips would be appriciated.

Click to expand...

I am running a 2" Mopar lift and didn't "need" to extend the brake lines, however, it is an upgrade I will be doing in the near future. Other advice...have an extra set of hands around, it helps! :thumb:

Bluewillys said:

I'm installing my lift on Saturday. It's my first time lifting a rig so be patient with me.
I'm installing the HD 2inch lift and jks quicker discos for 2.5+ inches of lift (I've heard I'll get around 3" from this kit) and a teraflex exhaust spacer on an unlimited Willys wheeler
Will I need an adjustable track bar to center my front axle?
Will I need longer brake lines?
Is there any other additional equipment I need?
Any install tips would be appriciated.

Click to expand...

Adjustable track bar. I like JKS manufacturing's make. Not essential, but much better if you do have.

Either a geometry correction bracket set (AEV or JKS), or new front control arms (JKS), if you want to really dial in your caster on alignment. Though many get by with out adding this.

Will I need an adjustable track bar to center my front axle?

No.


Will I need longer brake lines?

No.

Is there any other additional equipment I need?

Shock extensions. Unless you are running new ones.

Any install tips would be appriciated.

Appreciated it the correct spelling.

Remember to re-torque everything to spec. Check out Project-JK for torque settings.

I have the same lift. Rides really nice. I actually just installed some adjustable control arms to correct my castor. Not essential right off the bat but nice when you can do it.
Adjustable track bars are nice but with this lift your axles will be slightly off center and many people don't swap out the track bars as its not critical. Brake lines I've heard need to be extended, whether by longer brake lines or by extension brackets, but at full articulation I haven't stressed one out. I guess in the end the most important thing is to go wheel it and decide what the next step should be for you. I finally did the control arms to get back to a more responsive factory steering. I.e. No bumpsteer or flighty highway driving. Not sure I would do much else to the ome lift. Should get you alot of places. Good luck

Oh and check out eddies write up on that lift. Awesome job of explaining things and helping you through the process when you're new.

Here you go......

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/old-man-emu-jeep-jk-wrangler-2-lift-installation-write-up

Maybee I´m wrong but it seems to me that a lot of people buy to stiff coils when they choose ome lift.

The so called heavy duty coil are for what I´ve seen often the 2619 coil. That coil is supposed to be used together with a heavy steelbar, and the diesel engine that is more heavy than the petrol one.


I choosed the 2628 front coils, that coil is made to match petrol engine, vinch and steelbar. I did get about 2 inch of lift that is advertized and it rides nice.

For the rear I took 2617 coils. Made for cargo from 0 to 150 kg.

You do not need anything else with the 2 inch ome lift. The shocks and coils are all you need.

Do not use the rear panhard relocation bracket. It will recenter your axle but it will also decrease the total amount of wheel travel. ( the bracket will hit the shoock without the extra bumpstoops that is included and you do not need the bumpstop otherwise.

Choose the coils correct and the ome 2 inch lift rides very nice, give you much better road manner and some extra total amount of wheel travel, not much but about 1,5 inch compared to a stock sport or sahara modell.
http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/onlineManualsGuides/OME_Guide_current.pdf

at page 23 you have selecrtions for jk 4 door. If I remeber correct that 2619 was used before for both bar, winch and disel, seems they changed that but i could also remember wrong.

Edit:
I should ad that the panhard relocation bracket I wrote about is a option. I did buy that but relized very soon that is a waste of money. Never used it because without it you do not need the bumpstoop ( the bumpstoo in this case is only for protect the shoock against the relocation bracket att full compression in the rear ) The bumpstoop are a part of that panhard relocation bracket package.

I did compressed my old shocks beside my new ome shocks on the floor and the ome is the same lenght as stock when fully compressed but longer when fully extended about 1 to 1,5 inch. So no bumpstop needed to protect shock or coils. If bigger tire than 33" bumpstop needed for other reason or trim fenders.

Bingobelle said:

Maybee I´m wrong but it seems to me that a lot of people buy to stiff coils when they choose ome lift.

The so called heavy duty coil are for what I´ve seen often the 2619 coil. That coil is supposed to be used together with a heavy steelbar, and the diesel engine that is more heavy than the petrol one.


I choosed the 2628 front coils, that coil is made to match petrol engine, vinch and steelbar. I did get about 2 inch of lift that is advertized and it rides nice.

For the rear I took 2617 coils. Made for cargo from 0 to 150 kg.

You do not need anything else with the 2 inch ome lift. The shocks and coils are all you need.

Do not use the rear panhard relocation bracket. It will recenter your axle but it will also decrease the total amount of wheel travel. ( the bracket will hit the shoock without the extra bumpstoops that is included and you do not need the bumpstop otherwise.

Choose the coils correct and the ome 2 inch lift rides very nice, give you much better road manner and some extra total amount of wheel travel, not much but about 1,5 inch compared to a stock sport or sahara modell.
http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/onlineManualsGuides/OME_Guide_current.pdf

at page 23 you have selecrtions for jk 4 door. If I remeber correct that 2619 was used before for both bar, winch and disel, seems they changed that but i could also remember wrong.

Click to expand...

Do you have a 2 door or 4 door? You got 2 inches (5 cm) of lift?

notnalc68 said:

Do you have a 2 door or 4 door? You got 2 inches (5 cm) of lift?

Click to expand...

I´ve a 4 door.

I gained about 2 inches ( 5 cm ) of lift but I can take a good look later today with a tape measure.

The important thing with ome is to choose the correct coil since they have so many. They make different coils for a lot of applications. Heavy front or heavy rear, a lot or little cargo, 2 door or 4 door and so on.

took a mesaurents right now and from center of lower shockbolt to upper shocktower where the rubber isolator meets the metal I´ve 51,5 centimeter. Stock should be 46,99 centimter ( 18,5 inch ) so a lift of 4,51 centimter. ( 1,77 inch )

The ome 2 inch lift does NOT raise a jeep 3 inch of you choose the correct coils. Now, if someone wants more than 2 inch like 3 inch thats a another deal.

For me it seems that I can change my steel wire on the vinch to a synthetic rope in the future because I barely have 2 inch of lift.

The ground is not perfect where the jeep stands right now so if I take a mesaurents again on a perfect ground maybee it will be another 0,5 centimter. I do not know. I took the mesaurements on both side and same result.

OME 2" a Month Out

I installed my OME 2" lift myself a month ago... birthday present from my wife (gotta' love her).

Initially, it gave me 3". I just measured it and it has settled to 2 1/4".

The handling (which, admittedly, is incredibly subjective), is improved markedly over the stock suspension. It's my DD, so I was looking for improved road handling while still being good for back, unimproved roads. It no longer rolls in corners or dives on hard braking. On washboard roads, before the lift, it would set up this harmonic vibration that would scramble your insides. Now, it's all but gone. I still feel the bumps, but not the vibration.

I had about 8,000 miles on my Sahara Unlimited when I installed it. I had never done any work on my cars before, but it looked manageable, so I went for it. It took about six hours, but that included about an hour of searching for tools in the garage, walking to neighbor's to borrow tools a couple of times, staring at the thing and figuring out how I was going to do something when the obvious way wouldn't work. I probably actually worked for five hours. I washed the underside of my Jeep the day before and let it dry overnight. Even so, I think I had some of every mud puddle I ever drove through on me by the time I finished.

Installation notes:

1. As with many projects, a second person will make it easier. At the very least, they can hand you tools while your under the Jeep so you don't have to crawl out, again and again.
2. A floor jack and four jack stands make it much easier. I would put two stands to support the frame and use the other two for the axle.
3. Even at 8,000 miles, some of the bolts were a real bear to break loose. A breaker bar was huge help.
4. Installing the new springs was a tight fit. I did not have a spring compressor. In the end, I put the jack off center on the axle and had my teenager stand on the brake disc. It gave enough droop to get the spring in. To make this work, I had to disconnect the connectors that held the brake lines in place. By doing this, I did not have to disconnect the brake lines themselves.
5. When I dropped the rear axle, the breather hose disconnected from the axle. Luckily I noticed it and reconnected it when I was done.
6. I could not get my torque wrench on some of the bolts. I just cranked them down as tight as I could.

Hope this helps.

Bingobelle said:

took a mesaurents right now and from center of lower shockbolt to upper shocktower where the rubber isolator meets the metal I´ve 51,5 centimeter. Stock should be 46,99 centimter ( 18,5 inch ) so a lift of 4,51 centimter. ( 1,77 inch )

The ome 2 inch lift does NOT raise a jeep 3 inch of you choose the correct coils. Now, if someone wants more than 2 inch like 3 inch thats a another deal.

For me it seems that I can change my steel wire on the vinch to a synthetic rope in the future because I barely have 2 inch of lift.

The ground is not perfect where the jeep stands right now so if I take a mesaurents again on a perfect ground maybee it will be another 0,5 centimter. I do not know. I took the mesaurements on both side and same result.

Click to expand...

Good information. I've seen where people have installed the springs for heavy loads, on a light Jeep, and had taller lifts, but from your information, I gather you can actually gain 50mm as advertised, with proper coil selection. Thank you.

notnalc68 said:

Good information. I've seen where people have installed the springs for heavy loads, on a light Jeep, and had taller lifts, but from your information, I gather you can actually gain 50mm as advertised, with proper coil selection. Thank you.

Click to expand...

Yes, mine is essentially stock and I installed the "light" springs.

notnalc68 said:

Good information. I've seen where people have installed the springs for heavy loads, on a light Jeep, and had taller lifts, but from your information, I gather you can actually gain 50mm as advertised, with proper coil selection. Thank you.

Click to expand...

Thats correct, with the propper selection of coils you will gain about 50 mm plus minus some millimeters.

Even more important ( at least what I think ) is that with a to stiff coil you will not only have to much lift but also a very harsh ride. Your axle will have a harder time to flex and so on.

Personally I found a coil compressor very handy when putting in a new coil. You do not have to lower your axles as much.

Judesign said:

I have the same lift. Rides really nice. I actually just installed some adjustable control arms to correct my castor. Not essential right off the bat but nice when you can do it.
Adjustable track bars are nice but with this lift your axles will be slightly off center and many people don't swap out the track bars as its not critical. Brake lines I've heard need to be extended, whether by longer brake lines or by extension brackets, but at full articulation I haven't stressed one out. I guess in the end the most important thing is to go wheel it and decide what the next step should be for you. I finally did the control arms to get back to a more responsive factory steering. I.e. No bumpsteer or flighty highway driving. Not sure I would do much else to the ome lift. Should get you alot of places. Good luck

Click to expand...

Which control arms did you get? Are you happy with them so far?

I went with the rock krawler adjustable lowers. Really strong and heavy. Install was a breeze and steering feels much better with the corrected castor. I'm sure there is plenty of good choices and plenty of people here with more knowledge on the subject than me but those are the ones I went with.

Just finished this lift! Bumpers next! Thank y'all.

Awesome man. Pics if you got em

RonG said:

[*]Installing the new springs was a tight fit. I did not have a spring compressor. In the end, I put the jack off center on the axle and had my teenager stand on the brake disc. It gave enough droop to get the spring in. To make this work, I had to disconnect the connectors that held the brake lines in place. By doing this, I did not have to disconnect the brake lines themselves.

Just disconnect the front track bar axle bolt, loosen the frame side track bar bolt and the axle will drop far enough that you won't have to use a spring compressor. The track bar limits the axle droop when the sway bars end links and shocks are disconnected.

[*]I could not get my torque wrench on some of the bolts. I just cranked them down as tight as I could.

Pick up several 0.5" drive extenders (3" and 6") and you can get to all of the bolts with the torque wrench.


Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

I've never used the spring compressor, the axle is easy enough to drop. I added some comments above.