Drive shaft ?

I'm going to order new drive shafts front an rear on Monday. The front stock one is falling apart at 19K miles an the dealer wont cover it with the 4" long arm they installed. My questions is should I go with the Adams Driveshaft 1310 or 1350, also if I should go with Greasable or not greasable. They are going in a 15JKU rubi with 35's which I be running for awhile (2+ years) till I can get the money together for the PR60's. Any help would be great thank you

I would do 1350 personally, partly because I have broken 3 1310's.

My jeep has driveshaft Tom Wood 1310 for front and rear - no issue for last 7 years. already 40 K on it.

rampagejk said:

My jeep has driveshaft Tom Wood 1310 for front and rear - no issue for last 7 years. already 40 K on it.

Click to expand...

7 years and 40k miles? Lol that is hardly tested.

^^ what overlander said. I have broken a couple 1310's but not a 1350 yet

rampagejk said:

My jeep has driveshaft Tom Wood 1310 for front and rear - no issue for last 7 years. already 40 K on it.

Click to expand...

OverlanderJK said:

7 years and 40k miles? Lol that is hardly tested.

Click to expand...

Was thinking same as Overlander. I have a 1350 front and had to already have it rebuilt once at around 27k. Put the 27k on in about 13 months.

For the OP....
I'd go 1350 for sure. Why not spend just a bit more for something stronger than stock. [emoji106]

Most DS companies are going back to non-grease able as the grease able don't seem to last as long.

rampagejk said:

My jeep has driveshaft Tom Wood 1310 for front and rear - no issue for last 7 years. already 40 K on it.

Click to expand...

if broken, then I will upgrade to 1350. :yup:

rampagejk said:

if broken, then I will upgrade to 1350. :yup:

Click to expand...

Remember year of 2008 - there were not many 1350 choices - now today lot of jeep have 1350 and bigger tire like 37 inch or higher!!!

I am running the Adams 1350's front and rear and can not say enough good things about the shafts and the customer service I received when that 4X4 parts vendor (that shall not be named) somehow messed up and sent me the wrong shafts.

James the owner of Adams worked with me to get the correct shaft and did it on his dime.

He recommends you go to his web site, learn how to measure them yourself. Then call or email the correct size and have them build it.

For some reason my rear was over an inch too long with an off the shelf set from that 4X4 vendor. James said that he is seeing this.
I never did figure out if the dimensions changed over the years, if I got a set for a manual (dont know if there is a difference) or just what the problem was.

Watch the install videos on their website. Note that this video is for the 1310 shaft. There is a small difference in the 1350s that the rear flange on the transfer case from Adams does not reuse the thick o-ring but the front does.

You will need 3 sockets, some red locktite and a torque wrench. If you cant find the size of sockets needed let me know and I will go look. They are in my rollaway down at the shop. Right now I am :beer:

Ive had both Adams 1310 and 1350. If your going to wheel hard get the 1350. If your going for the "look" get the 1310.

I'll be different. I have 39K+ miles on my front 1310 with 37s. I did have it rebuilt once recently and went with non-greasable u-joints. Should be fine until you get 60s. I'd probably just save the money because I'm pretty sure you'll have to buy new ones with the new axles. 1310 front, factory take off for the rear. My $.02

I have broken many different builds of the 1310. I now run Tom Woods 1350. HUGE difference. Way smoother and lots of hard miles on 37s without any issues. I wasted lots of money on 1310s.