Front Axle Upgrade Suggestions 13 JKUR

deezus

deezus

New member
I'm running a RK Xfactor mid arm 3.5", Fox shocks with reservoirs and 37" Nitto TG's, 5.13 gears. Jeep runs great now thanks to someone on here referring me to a local shop to dial it in but I'm concerned with my front axle running bigger tires. Budget is not good right now so I need some advice on what I could do at the minimum to beef up that front 44. I got a quote for sleeves and c gussets with labor for $1200. Sounds like a lot to me but I feel good about the shop doing the work. Just wondering if it was enough or too much, I don't hammer it but I do want to do the Rubicon this summer. Thanks.

Also, Does the EVO drag link flip kit come with a TB bracket and does anyone know if it will work with my system?
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Do the gussets. Sleeves won't help your axle from bending at the pumpkin and I've never seen a tube bend in the middle.
 
JAGS

JAGS

Hooked
If you want a good upgrade, go to some chromoly axle shafts. Unless you are bombing through the desert, the housing should hold up for a while. That said the stock shafts should be fine for while as well.

For now, like Overlander said, go with the gussets. If maybe one other thing, get the EVO front lower control arm skids. Not bad, cheap armor to get as well. If you can weld, you can install yourself. I can't, so I had a shop do them.
 
JoeB-JKURX

JoeB-JKURX

New member
I know not everyone on this forum thinks it is necessary (or even useful, perhaps) but, in addition to gussets and LCA skids, I tack welded the stock front axle u-joint caps to the yokes. As I understand, a common failure mode for the stockers is for the c-clip to pop out when the cap rotates under load. Tack welding the caps is easy and, since you will be under there with a welder anyway, won't even take any more time and for all intents is free (an inch or so of welding wire). I did it because I didn't have time to get and install new axles before a week long trip to Moab recently and I just wanted a little insurance.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
JoeB-JKURX said:
I know not everyone on this forum thinks it is necessary (or even useful, perhaps) but, in addition to gussets and LCA skids, I tack welded the stock front axle u-joint caps to the yokes. As I understand, a common failure mode for the stockers is for the c-clip to pop out when the cap rotates under load. Tack welding the caps is easy and, since you will be under there with a welder anyway, won't even take any more time and for all intents is free (an inch or so of welding wire). I did it because I didn't have time to get and install new axles before a week long trip to Moab recently and I just wanted a little insurance.
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There are no c clips on the factory shafts. Welding the caps is a good idea though.
 
JoeB-JKURX

JoeB-JKURX

New member
Some weeks ago, WayofLife put up a "how to" thread on how to install Alloy USA axles with "full circle clip" u-joints [noting that the Rubicon front axles were actually pretty strong but tended to lose their u-joint caps. The caps are held in place in the yoke by "c-clips" (180 degree snap rings that hold the cap on the u-joint shaft) that may rotate under load in yokes that are configured such that the "c-clip" can be dislodged from its groove. When that happens, the cap will then work its way out of the yoke exposing the bearings leading to u-joint failure, Tack welding the caps to the yokes at least makes it less likely that the caps will rotate under load (I guess if the load were high enough, the weld could break and the cap rotate). As to heating the grease in the U-joint, seeing that the arc from the welder is so short time-wise, I have to believe there is no effect on the grease (my u-joints joints now have over 3K miles with welded caps with no apparent problem).
 
JK_BUB

JK_BUB

New member
JoeB-JKURX said:
Some weeks ago, WayofLife put up a "how to" thread on how to install Alloy USA axles with "full circle clip" u-joints [noting that the Rubicon front axles were actually pretty strong but tended to lose their u-joint caps. The caps are held in place in the yoke by "c-clips" (180 degree snap rings that hold the cap on the u-joint shaft) that may rotate under load in yokes that are configured such that the "c-clip" can be dislodged from its groove. When that happens, the cap will then work its way out of the yoke exposing the bearings leading to u-joint failure, Tack welding the caps to the yokes at least makes it less likely that the caps will rotate under load (I guess if the load were high enough, the weld could break and the cap rotate). As to heating the grease in the U-joint, seeing that the arc from the welder is so short time-wise, I have to believe there is no effect on the grease (my u-joints joints now have over 3K miles with welded caps with no apparent problem).
Click to expand...

Good to know. Thanks!
 
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