Replacement D44 weight Dynatrac, Teraflex, Currie

porter

New member
So I am in the market for an aftermarket D44 to replace my stock D30. I have a 4" lift, drag link flip, running 35s but might run 37s in the future, and need to correct my caster & pinion angle due to drive line vibe and a bit of wandering. This JKU is not a daily driver. Looking at the various D44 housings out there, it seems like there is a lot of difference in the weight and strength.

303587d1321230861-replacement-d44-front-axle-tube-comparison-dynatrac-teraflex-stock-axle-tubes.jpg


Stock = 93 lbs
Currie = 134 lbs
Dynatrac Standard tubes = 139 lbs
Dynatrac HD tubes = 153 lbs
Teraflex Standard tubes = 160 lbs ??? - (Note: Teraflex Website says both the standard and HD tubes weight 196 lbs but I think that's a misprint. I found Teraflex standard tubes listed at 160 lbs on a different thread and that # seems more reasonable)
Teraflex HD tubes = 196 lbs

As I try to balance increased strength and minimize unsprung weight, I am wondering what the best choice is? How strong is strong enough? And how heavy is too heavy?

Also, debating RCVs vs standard chomoly shafts. I like the fact that RCVs can turn sharper without binding, but it seems they mess up the rule of keeping the weak link easy to fix.
 
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WJCO

Meme King
If I were in the market at all for a 44, I would choose Dynatrac PR44 without hesitating. Do it once, do it right.

You'll hear pros/cons on the RCV axles, especially for how much they cost.
 

Speeddmn

New member
There are a few stock rubicon axels on KSL, it's an option and much better then anything from TerrorBroke.

On a side note, I wouldn't worry about weight, its a brick on wheels, keeping the weight closer to the ground is very helpful. Get a take off Rubi 44, shafts, gussets and wheel. Or spend the coin on a warranty backed American made products from an axle manufacture such as Dynatrac...
 

brooklyn4x4

New member
I have a pr44 with rcv shafts and couldn't be happier. I don't know much about the others but dynatrac really lead the way on aftermarket 44's and they did it right.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
I know your worried about unsprung weight but really when it comes to strength the weight should be the last thing on your mind. Do the pr44 and be done with it. They were the first to really push and aftermarket 44 and there is a reason why In the last year all the other companies have come out with a "competitor".
 

porter

New member
I also am looking at various ball joints. The guys at Fat Bob's are telling me Teraflex are the way to go as you can adjust them without taking things apart. Been looking at Synergy and Dynatrac also.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
I also am looking at various ball joints. The guys at Fat Bob's are telling me Teraflex are the way to go as you can adjust them without taking things apart. Been looking at Synergy and Dynatrac also.

I would skip the teraflex ones. Guarantee they are the same as the synergy, alloy, and crown ones. If you really want a cheap set to get you by the get crowns. If you want something that will last and is rebuildable then do the prosteers
 

benatc1

Hooked
I recently did a dynatrac pro rock 44 with RCVs, and prosteer ball joints. Got talked into RCVs due to fitment issues with the 35spline ARB. So far I've been happy, all performed well on the rocks and the prosteers are large and beefy. Way I see it is if you want to upgrade and can drop the coin do it right the first time and be done with it. The tubes on the pr44 HD housing are THICK and stout.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
I would skip the teraflex ones. Guarantee they are the same as the synergy, alloy, and crown ones. If you really want a cheap set to get you by the get crowns. If you want something that will last and is rebuildable then do the prosteers

They are actually different. Not sure whether any good or not lol, but different.
 

Speeddmn

New member
I also am looking at various ball joints. The guys at Fat Bob's are telling me Teraflex are the way to go as you can adjust them without taking things apart. Been looking at Synergy and Dynatrac also.

The people in that shop all push terraflex, its a local company. They also dont have a clue on anything. But that is just my opinion, not to mention overpriced like a champ.
 

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
The people in that shop all push terraflex, its a local company. They also dont have a clue on anything. But that is just my opinion, not to mention overpriced like a champ.

GENERALLY any given shop will push what they make the most profit on. Keep that in mind. What's best for the SHOP might not be what's best for YOU or YOUR DOLLAR.
 

porter

New member
Any opinion on ARB 35 spline vs Eaton Elocker with 30 spline? Is 35 spline overkill on a D44? I read some posts from Dynatrac suggesting 35 spline axles on a d44 were not really true 35 spline axles when you get towards the tire side of the shaft. They narrow down in thickness and strength.
 

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
Any opinion on ARB 35 spline vs Eaton Elocker with 30 spline? Is 35 spline overkill on a D44? I read some posts from Dynatrac suggesting 35 spline axles on a d44 were not really true 35 spline axles when you get towards the tire side of the shaft. They narrow down in thickness and strength.

Do you have a rubicon? If you already have factory lockers, then you could keep what you have until it fails then run the ARB, but if you do not have a factory locker, I would suggest the 35 spline as it will yield stronger axle shafts.
 

porter

New member
I'm replacing a D30 up front. I suggested Dynatrac with ARB with 35 spline to the guys at Fat Bob's and they pushed Eaton Elockers instead with 30 spline. They told me they had a lot of issues with Dynatrac and said I should go with Teraflex D44 with 1/2" tubes. That all sounded fishy to me and left me scratching my head.
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
Any opinion on ARB 35 spline vs Eaton Elocker with 30 spline? Is 35 spline overkill on a D44? I read some posts from Dynatrac suggesting 35 spline axles on a d44 were not really true 35 spline axles when you get towards the tire side of the shaft. They narrow down in thickness and strength.

My opinion is to stay away from the elocker. ARB RD157 and no, 35 spline is not overkill. I don't think the shafts narrow down but I may be wrong. Call dynatrac and talk to them about what you want. They won't sell you on something you don't need, at least that has been my experience so far.
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
I'm replacing a D30 up front. I suggested Dynatrac with ARB with 35 spline to the guys at Fat Bob's and they pushed Eaton Elockers instead with 30 spline. They told me they had a lot of issues with Dynatrac and said I should go with Teraflex D44 with 1/2" tubes. That all sounded fishy to me and left me scratching my head.

I would get as far away from "Fat Bobs" as you can.
 

WJCO

Meme King
I'm replacing a D30 up front. I suggested Dynatrac with ARB with 35 spline to the guys at Fat Bob's and they pushed Eaton Elockers instead with 30 spline. They told me they had a lot of issues with Dynatrac and said I should go with Teraflex D44 with 1/2" tubes. That all sounded fishy to me and left me scratching my head.

I would not put anything structural or metal on my Jeep that comes from Teraflex. Especially a high-dollar item like an axle. There are way to many members here that have had broken parts in areas that shouldn't ever break such as the track bar and tire carrier. If I was dumping that kind of coin on an axle assy, I don't care if it was 2000 dollars cheaper, I wouldn't do it.
 

Ctimrun

Member
I'm replacing a D30 up front. I suggested Dynatrac with ARB with 35 spline to the guys at Fat Bob's and they pushed Eaton Elockers instead with 30 spline. They told me they had a lot of issues with Dynatrac and said I should go with Teraflex D44 with 1/2" tubes. That all sounded fishy to me and left me scratching my head.

I would be willing to bet if Fat whoever had a problem with Dynatrac the problem could be tracked back to something they did wrong, not a problem with Dynatrac. That is a big IF they had any issues with Dynatrac. If someone has a problem with Dynatrac, Dynatrac would have taken care of it. I have worked with Dynatrac on several Jeeps and my Sportsmobile van and they have been great. Sounds to me like that shop is trying to talk you into an inferior setup. I would find a different shop.
 

Speeddmn

New member
I would be willing to bet if Fat whoever had a problem with Dynatrac the problem could be tracked back to something they did wrong, not a problem with Dynatrac. That is a big IF they had any issues with Dynatrac. If someone has a problem with Dynatrac, Dynatrac would have taken care of it. I have worked with Dynatrac on several Jeeps and my Sportsmobile van and they have been great. Sounds to me like that shop is trying to talk you into an inferior setup. I would find a different shop.

It's the type of shop that wants to get the customer in and out as quickly as possible. They charge around a grand per axle for gears, not to mention 30-40% markup for everything.
 

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
I would get as far away from "Fat Bobs" as you can.

Yep, RUN, do not walk.

I would not put anything structural or metal on my Jeep that comes from Teraflex. Especially a high-dollar item like an axle. There are way to many members here that have had broken parts in areas that shouldn't ever break such as the track bar and tire carrier. If I was dumping that kind of coin on an axle assy, I don't care if it was 2000 dollars cheaper, I wouldn't do it.

Also speaking the truth

I would be willing to bet if Fat whoever had a problem with Dynatrac the problem could be tracked back to something they did wrong, not a problem with Dynatrac. That is a big IF they had any issues with Dynatrac. If someone has a problem with Dynatrac, Dynatrac would have taken care of it. I have worked with Dynatrac on several Jeeps and my Sportsmobile van and they have been great. Sounds to me like that shop is trying to talk you into an inferior setup. I would find a different shop.

exactly. While I have no personal experience with Dyantrac, I have personal friends who do. I would find "Fat-whatever its called" to be MUCH more suspicious of "Problems" ...that is what happens when you don't know what your doing...

It's the type of shop that wants to get the customer in and out as quickly as possible. They charge around a grand per axle for gears, not to mention 30-40% markup for everything.

Just from this thread, I can already assure you I would not let these guys rotate my tires, much less handle something as critical as axles and/or gear setup. :eek:
 
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