ARB install

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alf1096

Member
I have got the itch for a locker and have a couple quick questions. I know most will say leave it to the pros. I regeared my jeep to 5.13s myself about 2 years ago without any issues so I can do it. With the ARB install what are the odds of having to reset my pinion depth or will I just have to worry about the backlash. Reason I ask is I am fine with doing backlash I just don't want to have to do the stupid crush sleeve again. With my train of though pinion depth should be almost identical even if changing the carrier.


Thanks
 
Exodus 4x4

Exodus 4x4

New member
Glad you asked because I need to swap my factory locker out for an ARB and was wondering the same. Hope somebody with more insight chimes in. I was thinking the same thing you were about pinion depth. Worst case I would say you try it and see but be prepared to remove the pinion just in case.
 
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alf1096

Member
Yea but I hate to buy the bearings and washer if it's not needed. I also broke my pinion flange tool last install.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
The arb will come with new shims and you should use those when installing it. You shouldn't have to touch your pinion at all so just messing with the backlash will be all that you need to do
 
Lance628

Lance628

New member
Sorry to revive an old thread but has anyone done this without the differential spreader tool it says you need
 
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alf1096

Member
I am gonna say most people who regear don't use the spreader. I know I did not the tool was too expensive. I was able to keep the same preload (same shim thickness as factory) without spreading the case.
 
A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
alf1096 said:
I am gonna say most people who regear don't use the spreader. I know I did not the tool was too expensive. I was able to keep the same preload (same shim thickness as factory) without spreading the case.
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Yep. That is how I do it. You will find a lot of shops do it this way also. I have done gears in several different front and rear ends of my own over the years. Just be patient and read the instructions. I don't think I have ever had to change pinion depth that I recall on a good rear end. Make sure you have a foot pound and an inch pound torque wrench. Also a dial indicator and micrometer.
 
A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
alf1096 said:
Yea but I hate to buy the bearings and washer if it's not needed. I also broke my pinion flange tool last install.
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Buy the new bearings. It is worth it. I sometimes grind the old ones out a little with a die grinder and use them as set up bearings to get things dialed in. This was really helpful on the old reversed d44 because the shims were under the bearings on the carrier. Saved pressing them on and off getting the backlash set.
 
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alf1096

Member
A.J. said:
Buy the new bearings. It is worth it. I sometimes grind the old ones out a little with a die grinder and use them as set up bearings to get things dialed in. This was really helpful on the old reversed d44 because the shims were under the bearings on the carrier. Saved pressing them on and off getting the backlash set.
Click to expand...

Yea I have already done the gears just did not want to reset the pinion. When I go ARB I will use new bearings on the carrier.
 
A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
alf1096 said:
Yea I have already done the gears just did not want to reset the pinion. When I go ARB I will use new bearings on the carrier.
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have to touch the pinion at all. Just changing the carrier. Might even use the same shim packs. The carriers are usually machined really close it is the housings that tend to vary. Should be pretty easy. [emoji106]
 
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