Help! Brake/Rotor problem

Tylerself17

Tylerself17

New member
Hello friends, tonight after dinner I took the jeep down some easy trails and about 20 minutes after I noticed a grinding noise coming from my rear driver side wheel, when I am driving it makes a grinding sounds and whenever I apply the brakes it stops but resumes when I let it go. I crawled underneath it and on the backside of the rotor it has grinded into it, I thought if something was in there it would eventually either grind itself away or fall out but it hasn't, and now it's looking like it caused too much damage to the rotor to the point of me having to replace it. Does anyone know what this could be or how to fix it?
 
Tylerself17

Tylerself17

New member
I thought it was a rock too but I had to drive it home about 15 miles and I figured that it would've either grinded away or fallen out but it didn't. I did try to reverse it, tried speed bumps and other things but no luck! I'm digging around my garage currently looking for my damn wheel lock that I somehow managed to misplace... It's a 14 JKU sport, I'll try to get some pictures in a minute
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
If the grind is a groove or two, it's most likely a foreign object, but if most of the surface is ground down, it's probably pads that have gone metal to metal from wear.
 
Tylerself17

Tylerself17

New member
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1467174220.692256.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1467174237.062299.jpg weird pictures bc it was a hard angle to take it at, I think it was a rock and I got it out! Neighbors probably think I'm doing reverse donuts drunk or something [emoji23] my biggest fear now is that it grinded too far into the rotor and I'm going to have to replace both the pad and rotor, what would be a good replacement set for 37's that work really well?
 
Evil

Evil

New member
angry ass rocks :bleh: A good replacement with 37's is a set of Dynatrac pro grips but if your good with the stock rotors just get new ones. I have a set but with shipping I think it would be cheaper to get a pair from Auto Zone or some place local. Its hard to tell how deep the groove is but what will eventually happen is your pad will wear into the groove and be done.
 
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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Hope it was just a rock. Truthfully, with that amount of grinding on the rotor, I would just leave it until your pads are worn down and you actually need brakes. You might get some noises and a little bit of pedal pulsation as the pad wears into the abnormality in the rotor, but it's nothing unsafe to worry about UNLESS the edge of your pad is indeed worn down to the metal backing. If your pad thickness is still good, I would just leave it unless you need an excuse to spend more money on Jeep mods.
 
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lonewolf

New member
Tylerself17 said:
my biggest fear now is that it grinded too far into the rotor and I'm going to have to replace both the pad and rotor
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You're a lucky man if this is your biggest fear having to replace a $20 rotor.

I don't think it's that serious for it to be not drivable though.
 
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Drdiesel1

New member
Might be a pad wear scraper telling you it's time for pads ?

OE, OEM and most good quality pads have a wear sensor. It functions well and works
just like you stated. You can hear it rolling and it stops when the brake is applied.

DSC_0004.jpg
 
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cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Drdiesel1 said:
Might be a pad wear scraper telling you it's time for pads ?

OE, OEM and most good quality pads have a wear sensor. It functions well and works
just like you stated. You can hear it rolling and it stops when the brake is applied.

View attachment 210353
Click to expand...

It will not be the wear indicator. That will only squeal when the brake is applied, not when just driving around like the OP stated.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Drdiesel1 said:
Nope! They stop when the brakes are applied. Squeal while just driving :beer:
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Lol seriously your wrong but it's cool. The pads will sit less than 1/32 off of the rotor when driving. When the brakes are applied is when the indicator will make contact because itself as well as the material will be worn down. Now if you have a fast fill master cylinder (which helps with fuel economy) it will actually pull the pad farther away from the rotor meaning that the indicator will be even farther away from the rotor.

Cheers! :beer:
 
sipafz

sipafz

Caught the Bug
cozdude said:
Lol seriously your wrong but it's cool. The pads will sit less than 1/32 off of the rotor when driving. When the brakes are applied is when the indicator will make contact because itself as well as the material will be worn down. Now if you have a fast fill master cylinder (which helps with fuel economy) it will actually pull the pad farther away from the rotor meaning that the indicator will be even farther away from the rotor.

Cheers! :beer:
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Drdiesel1 said:
Nope! They stop when the brakes are applied. Squeal while just driving :beer:
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Actually I think that you are both right. That being said, as the pad wears the indicator will make contact first when the brakes are applied as Cozdude stated. After weeks or months of ignoring the sound the pad will continue to wear, but the metal indicator will flex instead of wearing and not make as much noise when the brakes are applied and more noise when not engaged like Drdiesel mentioned . I have seen it both ways.
 
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Drdiesel1

New member
sipafz said:
Actually I think that you are both right. That being said, as the pad wears the indicator will make contact first when the brakes are applied as Cozdude stated. After weeks or months of ignoring the sound the pad will continue to wear, but the metal indicator will flex instead of wearing and not make as much noise when the brakes are applied and more noise when not engaged like Drdiesel mentioned . I have seen it both ways.
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Yep! Most of them I've heard are at low speed driving on the lot to get the car into the shop. As soon as I brake, the sensor changes
pitch or stops squealing all together. I'm sure the pads baking plate has flex and plays a role too! :thumb:
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Holy shit. Regardless of the indicator, look at the pics of the rotor that were posted. No way an indicator would cause that damage to the rotor. Either his pad is worn down to the metal backing in that location or some shit got caught between the rotor and backing plate.
 
D

Drdiesel1

New member
WJCO said:
Holy shit. Regardless of the indicator, look at the pics of the rotor that were posted. No way an indicator would cause that damage to the rotor. Either his pad is worn down to the metal backing in that location or some shit got caught between the rotor and backing plate.
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No shit! I missed the pics :yup: Pad is metal to metal :eek:
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
my 2010 rear brakes wore out quickly and scored the rotors like yours. they seemed fine then it's like the brake pad just fell off and left the rivets. odd part it was only one side of the pad that did that, the inner pad still looked new.
checked both rear pads, rotors are cheap
 
Devallee

Devallee

New member
I had the same issue and it ended up being a seized caliper. Cleaned out what I could under the little boots on the caliper slide and greased it and haven't had a problem since. I had my pad down to the metal only on the inside of the rotor like yours
 
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