2012 wrangler front and rear diff. Dana 30 and 44

10abadilla/jk · Jul 19, 2016

I know this has been written already but I can't seem to find the thread. My question is on the vent for the front and rear differential. My vents on the diff have a rubber slip on cap on them and not a hose. Is this something someone has seen possibly after a lift? The jeep has been lifted since 2012 and I just noticed the caps. They seem to be giving me no issues as they sit now. Should this be a concern? I have seen other jeeps that have an actual vent hose running above the diff in some way. I'm just wondering should I run a hose as well?

WJCO · Jul 19, 2016

10abadilla/jk said:
I know this has been written already but I can't seem to find the thread. My question is on the vent for the front and rear differential. My vents on the diff have a rubber slip on cap on them and not a hose. Is this something someone has seen possibly after a lift? The jeep has been lifted since 2012 and I just noticed the caps. They seem to be giving me no issues as they sit now. Should this be a concern? I have seen other jeeps that have an actual vent hose running above the diff in some way. I'm just wondering should I run a hose as well?

I've seen the caps before, but would recommend a hose if you do any water crossings.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 19, 2016

WJCO said:
I've seen the caps before, but would recommend a hose if you do any water crossings.

There is a potential I will do water crossing. I will change to hose for sure. Leave the other end open right?

WJCO · Jul 19, 2016

10abadilla/jk said:
There is a potential I will do water crossing. I will change to hose for sure. Leave the other end open right?

I would see what others have done, here's this thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?5197-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Axle-Breather-Hose-Extension. On my WJ, they are still capped but capped on the upper end of the hose way up high.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 19, 2016

WJCO said:
I would see what others have done, here's this thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?5197-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Axle-Breather-Hose-Extension. On my WJ, they are still capped but capped on the upper end of the hose way up high.

Awesome I appreciate it. Thank you.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 26, 2016

I also have another question. I am planning of changing my gears to 4.11. Is there a kits someone would recommend,? And would I have to do the full kit install like the bearings, shims, crush sleeves, seals etc. Or ma'am I just buy the ring and pinion and use in existing case?

WJCO · Jul 26, 2016

10abadilla/jk said:
I also have another question. I am planning of changing my gears to 4.11. Is there a kits someone would recommend,? And would I have to do the full kit install like the bearings, shims, crush sleeves, seals etc. Or ma'am I just buy the ring and pinion and use in existing case?

You have to remove the pinion bearings anyway on a regear, so if mileage is more than 50k (give or take, just an estimated mileage #) you might as well replace them with new bearings and do all the bearings at the same time. Crush sleeve is required. Seals may be recommended if your mileage is higher and are a little more labor too. You can buy a master install kit that includes everything except for the gears and axle seals. Shims will be needed if you do the bearings to properly set the differential back up. Why 4.11? What size tires are you running?

EDIT: Some axles may require a different carrier, I don't know which ones though.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 26, 2016

9

WJCO said:
You have to remove the pinion bearings anyway on a regear, so if mileage is more than 50k (give or take, just an estimated mileage #) you might as well replace them with new bearings and do all the bearings at the same time. Crush sleeve is required. Seals may be recommended if your mileage is higher and are a little more labor too. You can buy a master install kit that includes everything except for the gears and axle seals. Shims will be needed if you do the bearings to properly set the differential back up. Why 4.11? What size tires are you running?

EDIT: Some axles may require a different carrier, I don't know which ones though.

Thank you for that. Any brand you recommend? Right now I am running 33s but I want to go up to 35s I have 3.73 gears right now and am a bit afraid I could possibly burn my tranny up if i go 35s on 3.73. I've been told I should be ok But I'll loose a ton of power Which could make the tranny work harder. I only have 44k on it and figure 4.11s should balance it out. I do wheel with it pretty hard. Probably harder then I should on the d30.

WJCO · Jul 26, 2016

10abadilla/jk said:
9

Thank you for that. Any brand you recommend? Right now I am running 33s but I want to go up to 35s I have 3.73 gears right now and am a bit afraid I could possibly burn my tranny up if i go 35s on 3.73. I've been told I should be ok But I'll loose a ton of power Which could make the tranny work harder. I only have 44k on it and figure 4.11s should balance it out. I do wheel with it pretty hard. Probably harder then I should on the d30.

Almost all gears are the same as far as brand. I don't have a JK so I would see what other guys here say, but I would think you may want at least 4.56 if you will go to 35s. You would hate to spin the money twice. If you live in an area with a lot of hills/mountains, you may want to go up a little on the gears.

TennJK · Jul 26, 2016

I wouldn't go from 3.73 to 4.11 just because you're not going to feel much of a difference at all. And with a d30 in the front, the largest you'll want to go is 4.88. Which is what I did. I love the way my jeep rides with the new gears though. Huge improvement overall.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 26, 2016

WJCO said:
Almost all gears are the same as far as brand. I don't have a JK so I would see what other guys here say, but I would think you may want at least 4.56 if you will go to 35s. You would hate to spin the money twice. If you live in an area with a lot of hills/mountains, you may want to go up a little on the gears.

I do love where there are quite a bit of hill. I appreciate the information thank you again. 4.56 it is

bthomas · Jul 26, 2016

I've got 4.56 and 35's on my 2D 2012 and feel it's pretty darn good all around. I was like you and thought 4.10's would be good, and was a little reluctant to go to 4.56, I'm very glad I did. Now if your going to tow anything on a semi regular basis, you might want to take that into consideration also. A year or so after I did my gears, I picked up a little tent trailer. I could use a little more gear when towing now, but it's not terrible. I tow it maybe 6 times a year from home at 1300ft up to 3500 to 7500ft elevation depending on where we go.

jesse3638 · Jul 26, 2016

I have a 2012 JKU Rubicon and am I'm currently running 35's on 4:10's and it is ok but you lose a lot on hills. If you don't plan on going bigger than 35's 4:56's would return you to near stock performance and 4:88's would give you a little more. When I go to 37's 4:88's would get me near to stock performance but I want a little more so I'm going with 5:13's. As mentioned it is recommended not to go above 4:88's on a D30 as the pinion gets really small. Not to say it could't be done just not recommended.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 27, 2016

I appreciate all the information. Very helpful. Thank you.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 27, 2016

What do you guys think of running 34s on 3.73. The reason I ask is because I want to "beef up" my front d30 and regear but I'm not going to do it all in one shot. i Also still want to wheel in the meantime and would like the bigger tire size. Once I have built up the d30 and done a regear then I want to move up to 35s. Will 34s be much of a difference from the 33s I have now and what are posing issues I may run into transmission wise if any? Thank you for the inputs. Just trying to figure out what may be the best option and save me while still allowing me to wheel.

TrainWreck618 · Jul 27, 2016

10abadilla/jk said:
What do you guys think of running 34s on 3.73. The reason I ask is because I want to "beef up" my front d30 and regear but I'm not going to do it all in one shot. i Also still want to wheel in the meantime and would like the bigger tire size. Once I have built up the d30 and done a regear then I want to move up to 35s. Will 34s be much of a difference from the 33s I have now and what are posing issues I may run into transmission wise if any? Thank you for the inputs. Just trying to figure out what may be the best option and save me while still allowing me to wheel.

Ive been running 35's on a d30 with 3.73 gearing for 3 years.. Just throw some gussets on there and call it a day if you don't plan on upgrading axles.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 27, 2016

TrainWreck618 said:
Ive been running 35's on a d30 with 3.73 gearing for 3 years.. Just throw some gussets on there and call it a day if you don't plan on upgrading axles.

I'll upgrade axels but no just don't know how soon yet. I've been told just run it until you need to replace it. But I don't want to blow my transmission

10abadilla/jk · Jul 27, 2016

TrainWreck618 said:
Ive been running 35's on a d30 with 3.73 gearing for 3 years.. Just throw some gussets on there and call it a day if you don't plan on upgrading axles.

The reason I'm building up the d30 is because I have a buddy who builds trophy trucks for a living and he welds also. So he is doing me the favor of welding the truss and gussets on for me at little to no cost so my thought was in that case I can just run the d30 being that it has done well for the past 44k miles until I absolutely have to replace it. But again I am concerned of messing up the transmission if I go up in tire size. I mean how possible is it to burn a tranny running 34-35s on 3.73
Automatic transmission as well

TrainWreck618 · Jul 27, 2016

10abadilla/jk said:
I'll upgrade axels but no just don't know how soon yet. I've been told just run it until you need to replace it. But I don't want to blow my transmission

Your not going to blow your transmission driving normally and weekend wheeling.

10abadilla/jk said:
The reason I'm building up the d30 is because I have a buddy who builds trophy trucks for a living and he welds also. So he is doing me the favor of welding the truss and gussets on for me at little to no cost so my thought was in that case I can just run the d30 being that it has done well for the past 44k miles until I absolutely have to replace it. But again I am concerned of messing up the transmission if I go up in tire size. I mean how possible is it to burn a tranny running 34-35s on 3.73
Automatic transmission as well

I would not add a truss even if you got it for free, and the gussets will buy you some time until you want to swap axles. Im not sure who put the bug in your ear about jk's having transmissions that blow up from throwing 35's on? I'm not familiar with that and neither is my jeep, 80,000 miles running smooth.

10abadilla/jk · Jul 27, 2016

TrainWreck618 said:
Your not going to blow your transmission driving normally and weekend wheeling.

I would not add a truss even if you got it for free, and the gussets will buy you some time until you want to swap axles. Im not sure who put the bug in your ear about jk's having transmissions that blow up from throwing 35's on? I'm not familiar with that and neither is my jeep, 80,000 miles running smooth.

What would be a reason not to add a truss? And thank you for the info.

2012 wrangler front and rear diff. Dana 30 and 44

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