Reinforced stock axle vs Dynatrac/Tera44/G2 etc

Mitch

Mitch

New member
I bent my front axle..... just a tiny bit but enough that the oil ist leaking....well pouring out.

It´s a JKU Rubicon, so I have a locker with low mileage....around 50000mls.
I also have brand new G2 shafts here, because dealership tried to fix the problem for 3 times and didn´t have a clue......

Now, the real problem is I´m from Germany. No spare parts here. Axle housing from dealership costs 2700 Euros wich is close to $3000
Dynatrac if you get one costs §4033 just for the housing.

So it seems I have to order from the US. $250 postage for an axle is ok. around 30% custom fee is.......

I get a stock housing for $850...... $250 shipping, + 30% still much cheaper than in Germany.
I have brand new sleeves for the stock housing and a PSC diffcover from the old axle.
Get some C gussets and I have e pretty nice and tough axle.

So how tough ist this really ? Sounds pretty tough and costs less than $2000

On the other hand.

Tera 44 or a G2 is a pretty fancy thing. No need for welding no additional costs and work.
And I think those are the only 2 I can take when I want to keep my stock locker and shafts. Otherwise it would get way to expensive. New lcoker, onboard air, probably new shafts and so on.......


Actually it was clear that I´ll go for a aftermarket axle. But seen the Jeep list on the JKX and a couple of folks still run stock D44 front axles......... well seems to work.

The whole plan was to regear during the swap , go from 2.5" lift to 3.5" and from 35" to 37" and some new shocks and hydraulic bumpstops. But seen the costs I´ll to this in 3 (yearly) steps

But I´m thinking and thinking and don´t find the right way. Reinforced stock option could start right away. Tera44 well still have to get the money together.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Mitch said:
I bent my front axle..... just a tiny bit but enough that the oil ist leaking....well pouring out.

It´s a JKU Rubicon, so I have a locker with low mileage....around 50000mls.
I also have brand new G2 shafts here, because dealership tried to fix the problem for 3 times and didn´t have a clue......

Now, the real problem is I´m from Germany. No spare parts here. Axle housing from dealership costs 2700 Euros wich is close to $3000
Dynatrac if you get one costs §4033 just for the housing.

So it seems I have to order from the US. $250 postage for an axle is ok. around 30% custom fee is.......

I get a stock housing for $850...... $250 shipping, + 30% still much cheaper than in Germany.
I have brand new sleeves for the stock housing and a PSC diffcover from the old axle.
Get some C gussets and I have e pretty nice and tough axle.

So how tough ist this really ? Sounds pretty tough and costs less than $2000

On the other hand.

Tera 44 or a G2 is a pretty fancy thing. No need for welding no additional costs and work.
And I think those are the only 2 I can take when I want to keep my stock locker and shafts. Otherwise it would get way to expensive. New lcoker, onboard air, probably new shafts and so on.......


Actually it was clear that I´ll go for a aftermarket axle. But seen the Jeep list on the JKX and a couple of folks still run stock D44 front axles......... well seems to work.

The whole plan was to regear during the swap , go from 2.5" lift to 3.5" and from 35" to 37" and some new shocks and hydraulic bumpstops. But seen the costs I´ll to this in 3 (yearly) steps

But I´m thinking and thinking and don´t find the right way. Reinforced stock option could start right away. Tera44 well still have to get the money together.
Click to expand...

If you already bent a front 44 axle, and you are upgrading, go for the Dynatrac which is the highest quality and the strongest. It will cost more money, but you can have confident that it was built right and with quality parts. Check out their website and you'll see why they are the best. www.dynatrac.com
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
How did you bend it? Was it a freak accident or is it something you can see doing again because you were offroading? If it was a freak accident, personally, I'd go the stock axle route but I wouldn't waste money with sleeves.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
MR.Ty said:
How did you bend it? Was it a freak accident or is it something you can see doing again because you were offroading? If it was a freak accident, personally, I'd go the stock axle route but I wouldn't waste money with sleeves.
Click to expand...

I'd have to agree with this ^^^^

While I'm sure you have cool wheeling in Germany, I find it extremely difficult to believe that it's hard enough to bend an axle unless it were just a freak accident. Being that parts are so hard to come by or at least, not very cheap, I might consider sticking with a factory axle and not waste any money on sleeves.
 
Mitch

Mitch

New member
WJCO said:
If you already bent a front 44 axle, and you are upgrading, go for the Dynatrac which is the highest quality and the strongest. It will cost more money, but you can have confident that it was built right and with quality parts. Check out their website and you'll see why they are the best. www.dynatrac.com
Click to expand...

Well housing costs almost all the same. But going with a Dynatrac I would also need a new locker, onboard air, switchtes and eventually shafts. Making this even more expensive.

MR.Ty said:
How did you bend it? Was it a freak accident or is it something you can see doing again because you were offroading? If it was a freak accident, personally, I'd go the stock axle route but I wouldn't waste money with sleeves.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. Jump the Jeep but not on purpose. On an event there was a track and fastes one wins. Looked at half the track and the rest seemed smooth...... except 3 whoops. Was to fast, jump from the first ditch into the second and third..... pretty hard, suspension bottomed out and so on.
Well if it´s on time it could always happen, but I´m trying to be more careful next time........ Unless someone with a stopwatch is standing there, then my old racecardriver me comes out again.
But really trying to avoid it next time. And also work on the supension.
 
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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Mitch said:
Well housing costs almost all the same. But going with a Dynatrac I would also need a new locker, onboard air, switchtes and eventually shafts. Making this even more expensive.

Yes and no. Jump the Jeep but not on purpose. On an event there was a track and fastes one wins. Looked at half the track and teh rest seemed smooth...... exept 3 whoops. Was to fast, jump from the first ditch into the second and third..... pretty hard, suppension bottomed out and so on.
Well if it´s on time it could always happen, but I´m trying to be more careful next time........ Unless someone with a stopwatch is standing there, then my old racecardriver me comes out again.
But really trying to avoid it next time. And also work on the supension.
Click to expand...

LOL!! Okay, sounds like you had fun but clearly, what you did was out of the ordinary. That being said, if you can manage to avoid doing things like that, you should be able to get by with a factory axle. That should save you quite a bit.

RockinAZJK said:
If you're worried about bending and you went with a stock axle I'd recommend an Evo truss and gusset package.
Click to expand...

The OP is from Germany. With the exception of launching his Jeep, something that isn't common for him, I doubt he'd need anything more than a factory axle. Buying parts from the US can be very expensive and if it isn't needed, I personally wouldn't recommend it. Also, while gussets are nice to have, a truss is kind of a waste of money. At least, in my opinion.
 
benatc1

benatc1

Hooked
i could be wrong but doesn't dynastic make a housing to fit all the Rubicon parts? then you can just swap it all over an not have to buy an arb and all the things that come with it
 
RockinAZJK

RockinAZJK

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
The OP is from Germany. With the exception of launching his Jeep, something that isn't common for him, I doubt he'd need anything more than a factory axle. Buying parts from the US can be very expensive and if it isn't needed, I personally wouldn't recommend it. Also, while gussets are nice to have, a truss is kind of a waste of money. At least, in my opinion.
Click to expand...

While I can't disagree I can say that the truss has been a nice piece of mind to have. Of course mine was on there when I bought the axle.
Also I'm not paying for foreign shipping so I wasn't thinking about that cost



Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
SPOOOBY

SPOOOBY

New member
You may be able to straighten it ,unless it diamoned,use a chain from-outer c to c,opposite of the smile then place bottle jack from axle center to chain and tighten till straight then install sleeve and truss,then remove chain IMG_1477496794.053834.jpg


If your not living and having fun,your dead already
 
SPOOOBY

SPOOOBY

New member
A pro-rock 44 is about same strength as a sleeved , trussed and upper and lower inner c gusset all combined


If your not living and having fun,your dead already
 
J

JKDream

Guest
Mitch said:
I bent my front axle..... just a tiny bit but enough that the oil ist leaking....well pouring out.
Click to expand...

Just a suggestion, depending on where your axle is bent (assuming its at the diff) you can straighten it out quite easily for about ~$100 in tools.

2ih70bb.jpg

This is a very basic jig that has the strength to pull the tubes around. I've used this to straighten my housing before it was trussed, and also hold it in place while welding.
Obviously an aftermarket solution is better, but I was quite surprised how well it worked. I can run an alignment bar through the housing with no issues.

** I had the same issue as you, short side was bent and puking out gear oil.
 
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benatc1

benatc1

Hooked
Kruebicon said:
A pro-rock 44 is about same strength as a sleeved , trussed and upper and lower inner c gusset all combined


If your not living and having fun,your dead already
Click to expand...
clearly you haven't picked up a pr44 or even looked at the C's. or maybe mine is just that much heavier and stouter than all the other PR44's out there..

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J

JKDream

Guest
Kruebicon said:
A pro-rock 44 is about same strength as a sleeved , trussed and upper and lower inner c gusset all combined


If your not living and having fun,your dead already
Click to expand...

Not gonna beat a dead horse, but I have all of the above except sleeves and it's not the same.
 
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SPOOOBY

SPOOOBY

New member
I know they are beefey,and strong,that comparison didn't-include truss, but agree the c would still be the weak link compared to pro rock


If your not living and having fun,your dead already
 
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