PR44 vs. PR60
- Thread starter munstie
- Start date
munstie
New member
Yeah had this conversation with you awhile back ago in a P.M. I have heard there are drawbacks to the pr 60 weight wise and getting them to articulate so was curious to see if I could get any feedback from others. running a longarm setup right now been looking at evo bolt on coilovers as well, which brings me to this question on the coilover setup how much lift are you running with the 40's. Don't know that i will go to 40's but will probably step up to 37's for sure. And were there any issues with running the pr 60 with the stock 44 out back.:honey:
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
You could always do a hybrid style like Vengeance and run the PR44 with the 60 outers.
munstie
New member
So is there any truth to there being issues with getting a pr 60 to articulate. Really didn't understand it but I do remember reading somewhere that it's an issue with the pr 60, just trying to get some facts before I drop the cash. Hoping as well I can find someone close by to me to actually ride in a coilover setup.
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
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u will need spacers in the rear since the pr60 is 3" wider than the stock rear 44
GCM 2
New member
No problems because although a PR60 is a wider track width, most other areas dimensionally, it is as small or smaller than a stock Dana 44
munstie
New member
Well I have around 150# extra hanging on the front and about 175# maybe 200# on the rear both close guesses. I like the rocks,trails and mud. I tend to play on the rocks and trails more. The trails we do run have quite a bit of off camber sections in them
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
i have psc bumpers front and rear, a warn zeon up front, and some usual skids and sliders. imo if u break rcv's in a pr44, u will prob break u joints or shafts on a 60 too. i would only do a 60 if 40's were def in my future. a pr44 is fine for 37's and can work with 40's depending on how you treat it. as wol said, if u are really worried and can afford the pr60 up front, the high steer kit to go with it, and wheels to accept the hubs and bolt pattern, go for it.
munstie
New member
Yeah that's the big thing is all the other thing's that need to be changed wheels and so forth that I'm really not looking forward to, but hell it will be a good excuse to get slabs. :thumbup:
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
Exactly where did you read that and what exactly was the reason behind there be any issues with getting a PR60 to articulate? Here's a shot of our JK with a PR60...
If there's an issue, I haven't seen it...
All the more reason why you'd want a greater amount of unsprung weight. It'll help to keep all four on the floor.
Unfortunately, if you're going to have any problems with articulation, it'll be from the radius arms you have on your long arm kit, not a 60.
Not sure what you're basing your opinion on - I've run RCV's on a PR44 and while I'll admit they are nice, they are far from being perfect. Yes, they do have very strong joints but, their shafts are SMALLER than a 60 shaft and that's exactly where they end up breaking. I have been pushing my 60 on 40's with u-joints for over 3 years and over 60,000 miles now and have NEVER had an issue. I would take my 60 with u-joints over a 44 with RCV's any day of the week. But, that's just me.
munstie
New member
Thats what I kinda thought that the weight should help. I think I can say I'm just gonna go with the 60 rather have more than not enough. As far as the radius arms I do realize they do cause some bind. And I honestly cannot remember where I had read that about the 60 and that articulation was an issue. This is full droop on the radius arms now
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
That's the way I see it. :yup:
Never said you couldn't "force" radius arms to articulate but, it will come at the cost of your bushings. Unfortunately, there isn't just "some" bind but rather, 100% bind the moment you try to articulate your axle. By it's design, radius arms behave much like a truss and if you were to disconnect your arms from the frame, they would just stand out like a diving board instead of drooping toward the floor like a 4-link setup would. See pic below:
If I recall, there used to be front axles made for Ford Broncos that rotated at the axle tube to help address this problem. Radius arms are great for big straight up and down vertical travel like what desert racers see and they even help provide a solution for problematic upper control arm mounting points but, the need for them to flex well was never intended for them to be a primary goal.
If you haven't checked your bushings recently, you should as I've seen them blow out in as little as one run.
TrailBear
New member
I just saw on northridges site that full traction makes a kit for those that have a radius arm lift, it comes with a frame mount and new upper arm so you can go back to true four link. Worth a look to save money.
Don't let fear and common sense hold you back
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Don't let fear and common sense hold you back
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app