Bolt torque

JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
If you can't get to the nut to apply torque, would you torque the bolt at the same foot pound setting? As in the front track bar bolt for example. Also does it not affect torque if the bolt has anti seize on it or not "dry"?


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Yes. Track bar is a great example because you can't always get to both sides with a torque wrench. It the nut is held in place and doesn't move, then torquing the bolt head will accomplish the same thing. As far as anti-seize, not really sure on that one. I wouldn't think it would matter, because I've used anti-seize on bolts before, and they are still very tight when trying to remove them later.
 
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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
WJCO said:
Yes. Track bar is a great example because you can't always get to both sides with a torque wrench. It the nut is held in place and doesn't move, then torquing the bolt head will accomplish the same thing. As far as anti-seized, not really sure on that one. I wouldn't think it would matter, because I've used anti-seize on bolts before, and they are still very tight when trying to remove them later.
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Ok thanks, wasn't sure if you had to change the setting if you torque the bolt head. Was thinking maybe that could be part of my front end problems but sounds like it's good


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
JKbrick said:
Ok thanks, wasn't sure if you had to change the setting if you torque the bolt head. Was thinking maybe that could be part of my front end problems but sounds like it's good


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If someone cycles the steering wheel while you watch the track bar ends, even 1/16" of movement is enough to cause death wobble. Been there. I actually had a rusty spot on a bolt and the nut was stopping there before it was fully torqued, so no matter how much I tightened it, it still had movement. It ultimately broke when I was taking it apart for further inspection. Replaced the bolt and torqued to spec, and it was fixed. Good luck.
 
WW_Svi

WW_Svi

New member
Torquing the bolt head can produce a different torque value than it would at the nut. This depends on the surface area of the bolt and nut, the coating of the nut/bolt, and the material of each side being clamped.

The whole point of torque specifications is to produce a semi repeatable clamp load. This clamp load is essentially directly proportional to the torque, however friction is involved. This is the friction between threads, friction between the bolt head or nut turning on the surface of the part. Some hardware comes with wax, zink, light oil. All of these help to lower the coefficient of friction to make a more consistent torque. So with this, when you add anti seize, loctite, grease or anything it will effect the torque. If the manufacture specs it as a dry torque then adding anti seize will probably over torque it slightly.

At the end of the day, just need to make our best informed decision to decide if torquing the bolt head is ok and adding never sieze is good or bad. I've personally done both in situations like this and wouldn't worry about it.


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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
WW_Svi said:
Torquing the bolt head can produce a different torque value than it would at the nut. This depends on the surface area of the bolt and nut, the coating of the nut/bolt, and the material of each side being clamped.

The whole point of torque specifications is to produce a semi repeatable clamp load. This clamp load is essentially directly proportional to the torque, however friction is involved. This is the friction between threads, friction between the bolt head or nut turning on the surface of the part. Some hardware comes with wax, zink, light oil. All of these help to lower the coefficient of friction to make a more consistent torque. So with this, when you add anti seize, loctite, grease or anything it will effect the torque. If the manufacture specs it as a dry torque then adding anti seize will probably over torque it slightly.

At the end of the day, just need to make our best informed decision to decide if torquing the bolt head is ok and adding never sieze is good or bad. I've personally done both in situations like this and wouldn't worry about it.


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So if the front track bar bolt says 125 and you can only turn the bolt what is the new torque setting? Just curious not questioning


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
JKbrick said:
So if the front track bar bolt says 125 and you can only turn the bolt what is the new torque setting? Just curious not questioning


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Judging by the end of his post, I think he's saying just do it the same. He was just being technical about actual torque with different variables. Every upper track bar bolt I've ever torqued has been on the bolt head and I use the manufacturer torque spec, that's just me.
 
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
WJCO said:
Judging by the end of his post, I think he's saying just do it the same. He was just being technical about actual torque with different variables. Every upper track bar bolt I've ever torqued has been on the bolt head and I use the manufacturer torque spec, that's just me.
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That's what I've always done too, just trying to overthink this when I put it back together


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WW_Svi

WW_Svi

New member
Since it's clamping steel together, not steel on one side and aluminum on the other. And the bolt head and nut have the basically the same surface area, the torque should be the same.

Like WJCO said, I was just giving a technical answer. Using the specs given will be just fine.


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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
WW_Svi said:
Since it's clamping steel together, not steel on one side and aluminum on the other. And the bolt head and nut have the basically the same surface area, the torque should be the same.

Like WJCO said, I was just giving a technical answer. Using the specs given will be just fine.


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Thanks, I like technical answers! Just takes me a bit to soak it all in


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