Squealing clutch

Slimebones

Slimebones

Active Member
'07 Rubicon, 3.8l, manual 6-speed. When depressing clutch pedal, squealing noise has progressively been getting worse. My first thought is "throw-out bearing". Thing is though, there is still a slight squeal even when pedal is completely released. Seems to me if it was the TOB it should not be spinning with pedal out, only when depressed. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
 
CaliforniaWheelin'

CaliforniaWheelin'

Member
I'm probably wrong, but I had a shredded serpentine belt after mudding a little while ago. Maybe check that out just for kicks? Mine was squealing like crazy and then I got stranded. Haha. It happened pretty quick in my case. Only reason I bring it up is that it happens for you both when clutch is depressed and released.

Maybe just see if you can turn the belt by hand and check that a pulley hasn't seized (which is what happened to mine)


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Slimebones

Slimebones

Active Member
CaliforniaWheelin' said:
I'm probably wrong, but I had a shredded serpentine belt after mudding a little while ago. Maybe check that out just for kicks? Mine was squealing like crazy and then I got stranded. Haha. It happened pretty quick in my case. Only reason I bring it up is that it happens for you both when couch is depressed and released.

Maybe just see if you can turn the belt by hand and check that a pulley hasn't seized (which is what happened to mine)


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Belt is fine. This noise is considerably louder as clutch pedal is depressed, and very faint when pedal is clear out.
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CaliforniaWheelin'

CaliforniaWheelin'

Member
Slimebones said:
Belt is fine. This noise is considerably louder as clutch pedal is depressed, and very faint when pedal is clear out.
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Have you done any water crossings or mud stuff lately? The only other thing that I can think of would be maybe you sucked in some rocks or other junk into the bell housing...? I shifted once in muddy water... bad call. Lol



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professorkx

professorkx

New member
Throw out bearing needs to be replaced because the bearing it's dry and going bad. The bearing is spinning when the clutch is out, but there is no force on the bearing until you depress the clutch which pushes the throw out into the pressure plate. You have to pull the tranny/transfer case to replace the bearing, so might as well replace the entire clutch and pilot bearing so you are good to go for several more years. surfacing the flywheel is also a good idea since its a pain to go back in if the new clutch chatters when released...
 
Slimebones

Slimebones

Active Member
professorkx said:
Throw out bearing needs to be replaced because the bearing it's dry and going bad. The bearing is spinning when the clutch is out, but there is no force on the bearing until you depress the clutch which pushes the throw out into the pressure plate. You have to pull the tranny/transfer case to replace the bearing, so might as well replace the entire clutch and pilot bearing so you are good to go for several more years. surfacing the flywheel is also a good idea since its a pain to go back in if the new clutch chatters when released...
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That is what I suspected. Just did not know if bearing would spin if no pressure on it. Thanks indeed.
 
Draconianwinter

Draconianwinter

New member
Slimebones said:
That is what I suspected. Just did not know if bearing would spin if no pressure on it. Thanks indeed.
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Replace the clutch and pilot bearing as well. The reason i say this is that every vehicle i have ever owned but 1 was a manual not once have seen a throw out bearing go out and the clutch not be far behind it. Could be wrong, but not in my experience

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Slimebones

Slimebones

Active Member
Draconianwinter said:
Replace the clutch and pilot bearing as well. The reason i say this is that every vehicle i have ever owned but 1 was a manual not once have seen a throw out bearing go out and the clutch not be far behind it. Could be wrong, but not in my experience

sent from your basement
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Only makes since, huh. Major difference is going to be in the extra parts. Labor is basically the same. Do while you are in there and not have to go in again in the very near future. Probably will replace engine rear main seal also while being in there. Have 60K miles.
 
Draconianwinter

Draconianwinter

New member
Slimebones said:
Only makes since, huh. Major difference is going to be in the extra parts. Labor is basically the same. Do while you are in there and not have to go in again in the very near future. Probably will replace engine rear main seal also while being in there. Have 60K miles.
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Yeah while it is apart might as well. And like i said the clutch usually isn't far behind in going out on you if the throw out bearing is going out already. Let's face it when we wheel we tend to be hard on clutches. I find where i used to get 100k to 150k miles out of one now i am getting above 75k out of them or less lol

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love2wheel

love2wheel

New member
The tob doesn't spin Untill it comes in contact with the pressure plate. As for resurfacing the flywheel, I know for sure it is a bad idea to do it on a jk. When I bought my o8 x it had a bad chatter starting in first gear. Replaced everything but flywheel. It was resurfaced. From then on only after a hundred miles or so I would get a squealing noise. Only went away with pressure on pedal. Needless to say after two new warranty clutches I started digging around while I worked at the dealer. I sold parts there. The manufacturer does not recommend turning the flywheel due to this issue. I replaced the entire system including flywheel. Problem solved. The difference that was shaved off also was over extending the rod in the slave cylinder and causing it to fail. Went through three during this time. Definitely replace the entire system including flywheel. I learned the hard way. The technicians didn't even know this. I printed this paperwork out and gave it to them for future reference. I spent a ton of money trying to figure this out. Hope this is helpful.

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Draconianwinter

Draconianwinter

New member
love2wheel said:
The tob doesn't spin Untill it comes in contact with the pressure plate. As for resurfacing the flywheel, I know for sure it is a bad idea to do it on a jk. When I bought my o8 x it had a bad chatter starting in first gear. Replaced everything but flywheel. It was resurfaced. From then on only after a hundred miles or so I would get a squealing noise. Only went away with pressure on pedal. Needless to say after two new warranty clutches I started digging around while I worked at the dealer. I sold parts there. The manufacturer does not recommend turning the flywheel due to this issue. I replaced the entire system including flywheel. Problem solved. The difference that was shaved off also was over extending the rod in the slave cylinder and causing it to fail. Went through three during this time. Definitely replace the entire system including flywheel. I learned the hard way. The technicians didn't even know this. I printed this paperwork out and gave it to them for future reference. I spent a ton of money trying to figure this out. Hope this is helpful.

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Wow that's something i didn't know. We always used to cut them. But doesn't surprise me either.

sent from your basement
 
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