Pavel9934S
New member
Hi
JEEP Engine 3.8 or 3.6 Pentastar - where is the difference? Du you have experience ?
JEEP Engine 3.8 or 3.6 Pentastar - where is the difference? Du you have experience ?
Engine 3.8 vs 3.6 Pentastar
- Thread starter Pavel9934S
- Start date
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
its like comparing a V8 to a 4 cyclinder...
Miramontes
New member
I have an 07 and my wife has a 2012. And I must say it has a lot more power then mine.
uhporkchop
New member
I am not trying to hijack, but what is everyones opinion on 3.8 with RIPP SC vs 3.6? I ask for those of us that are debating new versus great deal on used built JKU and adding the RIPP.
Pavel9934S
New member
thanks !!! :yup:
Hands down, the 3.6L Pentastar delivers 285 HP right out of the box and performs WAY better than a 3.8L with a RIPP. It's way more reliable, delivers the HP and torque when you really need it and, it's all covered under warranty.
uhporkchop
New member
I admit the 3.8 is a sloth...I was very disappointed with the throttle response especially in my 2008 rubicon 35" tires 6 speed and 4.10s. But it isnt my sports car and I am confident gears will help which I will need after evo LA, coil overs, and 37s anyway. I always ask myself I am making the right decision though in investing more money in the rig (namely Evo long arms, coil overs, and a RIPP) or should I start over with a new or newer and 3.6.
Have people been having reliability issues with the 3.8? I have heard rumor but it seems more often than not some forums make things out to be way more than what they are. I know many of you here have been around the 3.8 for years now.....I am curious how many of you have actually had issues with the 3.8. How about with the RIPP? I also thought the powertrain was lifetime warranty....at least that is what I saw on the window sticker of my 2008 JKU.
I have never driven a RIPP 3.8 or the 3.6 but I have heard and seen what look like great results with the 3.8 RIPP(youtube videos, etc.). When I look at the cost of a new rubicon at about $40K before you throw in mods....is a person better off finding a clean used built ruby which already has possible $15-25K in mods (armor, suspension, drivetrain, tires and wheels, recovery gear........which we all here put into a new JK away..) and doing the RIPP. It seems to me that a person is in it at just over half the price as I see nicely built JKUs all the time for 25-30K infact I paid much less for the JKU OI recently purchased. Is the 3.6 really worth spending 60K on a new rig that is just going to hit the rocks and dirt anyway?
Hopefully I will get to drive both soon :thumb: I have not seen the dynos results of a built 3.6, say with gears and 37s to compare to the thousands of dyno postings of built 3.8 RIPP JK with 37s, but I would like to see them if anyone has them. I would hope the HP and TQ to come on much earlier.
WOW that was long winded :yawn37:
Holeshot
Banned
TacPen
Banned
I've had a lot of good luck with 3.8L but, there are plenty of people I know who've not. The big problem with a lot of them is oil consumption. Moochie here on the forum has been fighting this problem for a while now. JeepCacher finally blew his 3.8L. While I have had some issues with the 3.6L in my 2012, it was fixed under warranty and, still a motor that I would take over a 3.8L especially if it had a RIPP. Every single person I know who's had a RIPP has either been fighting to make it work right since day one or, has already gotten rid of it. From what I have seen in person, I'm far from impressed and can almost guarantee you that if you were to drive a 3.8L with a RIPP and a 3.6L, you would want the later hands down.
OJK12
New member
This is just my .02 but the engineers at Chrysler have flat out said the 3.8 was not their best engine but that it would live a long happy life as long as you stay away from a lot of engines mods and I'm sure that a supercharger would cut that engines life span in half. I know I drove a 3.8 after owning a 4.0 and was not impressed but I knew the 3.6 was coming so I waited and man was it worth it! It's a cammer engine so it lacks the low end grunt of the 4.0 but otherwise it's THE engine for the JK.
StrizzyChris
New member
The 3.8 can have problems(i.e. the mentioned OCCASIONAL oil consumption issue) but there have been a ton of people having issues with the 3.6 in the 2012 model like i believe WAL had. They have since changed the head, but there's another thread started about issues with the new one as well. I wouldn't RIPP but if ur looking for the more "safe bet",with a more proven and reliable engine, then i would go 3.8. If you're wanting power and maintain Warranty with a new engine, then 3.6 is ur best bet. All that being said, i sold my 3.8 07 and am gonna roll the dice and go new!
Holeshot
Banned
Hate to break it to you, the 3.6 is also a minivan engine.
well maybe it is, they've put this engine in something like 9 chrysler models, but still, it's a kickass minivan engine :brows:
uhporkchop
New member
First off I apologize for jackin the thread a little as I am kinda of asking to change the thread a bit to 3.8 RIPP vs 3.6. Secondly I appreciate everyones input on the subject. It is nice having a group to discuss the subject with and without being bashed like a moron.
I reallly enjoy just about everything about driving my JKU except one thing and that is cruising to the trail down the interstate and not having the power to maintain 70-75 on hills, not mountain passes, but hills. Or not having the power to pass another vehicle without it taking a down hill stretch, 10 minutes, and every bit of skinny pedal remaining:icon_crazy: Anyway I am sure going from 4.10s to 5.13s would make a significant difference but I must say I scratch my head wondering if that will truely resolve the issues. :thinking: It does seem to usually hold speed if you can down shift and keep the RPMs above the 2600 range, well at least on hills, the flats are ok not that you have much passing power but it cruises along 70-75 without much laboring. Not sure gears are going to make her capable of picking up speed much quicker if at all though especially on the grade. Thus the reason I have debated the RIPP....for that extra little something cruising to the trail or a little extra pulling power of motox/snowmobile trailer. The thing does fine on the trail and I am sure will do much better geared....it is not to often I have ever wished for more HP on the trail....it is usually the a matter of the right line and finessing it through and over obstacles that works best for me. Hmmm maybe that is just how I need to see it more often cruising down the highway.....finesse it along and enjoy the ride.
I reallly enjoy just about everything about driving my JKU except one thing and that is cruising to the trail down the interstate and not having the power to maintain 70-75 on hills, not mountain passes, but hills. Or not having the power to pass another vehicle without it taking a down hill stretch, 10 minutes, and every bit of skinny pedal remaining:icon_crazy: Anyway I am sure going from 4.10s to 5.13s would make a significant difference but I must say I scratch my head wondering if that will truely resolve the issues. :thinking: It does seem to usually hold speed if you can down shift and keep the RPMs above the 2600 range, well at least on hills, the flats are ok not that you have much passing power but it cruises along 70-75 without much laboring. Not sure gears are going to make her capable of picking up speed much quicker if at all though especially on the grade. Thus the reason I have debated the RIPP....for that extra little something cruising to the trail or a little extra pulling power of motox/snowmobile trailer. The thing does fine on the trail and I am sure will do much better geared....it is not to often I have ever wished for more HP on the trail....it is usually the a matter of the right line and finessing it through and over obstacles that works best for me. Hmmm maybe that is just how I need to see it more often cruising down the highway.....finesse it along and enjoy the ride.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
What size tires are you running? The regear will bring you back to stock or better and make hill climbs way easier.
TacPen
Banned
I've looked into the RIPP my self and talked to a few people who have them (the RIPP guys are very nice, give them a ring). Most people seem to like it although a one had teething problems that they did get worked out. Keep in mind that your installer has a bit to do with this as well.
That said, after having driven both the 3.8 (which I have in a 2-DR) and the new 3.6 (which I wish I had) I'm not going to do the RIPP. I did re-gear to 4.88 & Superchiped it and while the Jeep isn't a rocket sled, for me it's fine. I prefer to put the money aside an wait until they get all the teething issues worked out with the 3.6 and eventually get one of those.
Besides... maybe Chyrsler will decide to put a Hemi in the Jeep in the next few years, then I know I'll want one of those.
The biggest issue I see with the RIPP is that it's a ~$6,000 upgrade which is non-transferable to a new Jeep, lessens the reliability of the vehicle, doesn't help me on the trail and will likely make my Jeep less desirable when it's time to sell it.
That said unlike others I'm an empiricist, I'd recommend you drive a RIPP supercharged Jeep and see how you like it before deciding either way if you're that serious.
That said, after having driven both the 3.8 (which I have in a 2-DR) and the new 3.6 (which I wish I had) I'm not going to do the RIPP. I did re-gear to 4.88 & Superchiped it and while the Jeep isn't a rocket sled, for me it's fine. I prefer to put the money aside an wait until they get all the teething issues worked out with the 3.6 and eventually get one of those.
Besides... maybe Chyrsler will decide to put a Hemi in the Jeep in the next few years, then I know I'll want one of those.
The biggest issue I see with the RIPP is that it's a ~$6,000 upgrade which is non-transferable to a new Jeep, lessens the reliability of the vehicle, doesn't help me on the trail and will likely make my Jeep less desirable when it's time to sell it.
That said unlike others I'm an empiricist, I'd recommend you drive a RIPP supercharged Jeep and see how you like it before deciding either way if you're that serious.
What he said, re-gearing will make a big difference but, you NEED to make sure that you calibrate your speedometer properly as well as failure to do so will cause your shift points to be off and make your 3.8L feel like more of a dog than it is. Calibrating your speedo alone and without regearing will help out a lot.
uhporkchop
New member
At the moment it has 35s that have good life left to them so they will probably stay for a while. I would like to go to 37s but after gears, coil overs, and long arm gets installed.
The speedo calibration was done....AEV pro cal, however it is a 6 speed manual so it does not affect the drivability like those with autos I wouldnt think. Will 5.13s be the best option on 37s? What is the consensus on 5.13s vs 5.38s in the Dana 44..... are guys chewing ring gears as often with 5.13s on 37s? or does it even matter....it sounds like 5.38s are a failure waiting to happen...or is that with any ring and pinion in the dana 44 with heavy tire and wheel combo.
5.38's will give you more power and is what you may enjoy more but, the pinion gets to be really really small in a Dana 44. Granted, I was running 40's at the time but, I have blown mine out and could see how it could happen even with 37's. I personally wouldn't recommend anything higher than a 5.13 in a Dana 44.