Need some insight

1

16jku1231

New member
Ok, so I've been driving my 2016 jku sport auto for about a year and still can't make a decision on anything. Opinions are like @$$holes, everyone has got one and they are all different. So, I am ready to build my jeep, but looking for opinions from professionals. I Really want to run 37s, but I don't think my budget will allow me to build my rig right for how I want to use it. Iv'e got about $13,000 to spend. I already have wheels, bumpers, tire carrier, and winch. I will be mostly using this Jeep on the highway in Florida, but will be wheeling at least once a month (again, here in FL). I will also have a 3,000# camper I will be towing occasionally. This vehicle will still be my daily driver, but I want it to be capable offroad when I take it out.
Here is what I have:
D30/44 with 3.73
JCR Dagger stubby front bumper
JCR Crusader mid-width rear bumper
JCR Shied tire carrier
XD Addict 17x9 wheels
Smittybilt 12,000# winch (I didn't know they were made in China!)

Here is what I am considering:
Dynatrac Trail leader axle set (Front ProRock 44 unlimited and upgraded rear shafts, locker, and gears for stock 44) or G2 core 44 front and RockJock 60 Rear
35 or 37x12.50 nitto trail grapplers or toyo m/t
Bushwacker Flat Fenders
ARB lockers and twin compressor
3 inch lift (Teraflex, EVO, JKS, or one of the other many that are out there)

I am not too sure for the major components, If they will hold up with the way I am going to use my Jeep if I run the the Heavier 37s. The guy at Dynatrac (who didn't seem to know much about what he was selling) told me to run 37s and tow that camper that I would need a full-floater rear, not sure on the accuracy of that.

Thanks for any experienced help! I really appreciate it!
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Since you're upgrading the axle, definitely go with Dynatrac. Their specs are superior to the competition and you are guaranteed that they are made here in the USA. As far towing, I don't know much myself, but don't know why the rear axle would matter regarding semifloat or full float. 3000lb isn't all that much for a trailer. I've dealt with 2 of the sales reps over at Dynatrac, and they seemed to know their products well.
 
J

JKDream

Guest
You could save a good amount of money for your build by keeping the oem rear axle.
They're more than capable enough for 37's. Towing is going to be more dependent on your gearing.
A large majority of people running 37's are using the oem rear axle, WAL included on Rubicat.
 
1

16jku1231

New member
WJCO said:
Since you're upgrading the axle, definitely go with Dynatrac. Their specs are superior to the competition and you are guaranteed that they are made here in the USA. As far towing, I don't know much myself, but don't know why the rear axle would matter regarding semifloat or full float. 3000lb isn't all that much for a trailer. I've dealt with 2 of the sales reps over at Dynatrac, and they seemed to know their products well.
Click to expand...

Through all my research, that is the one I am mostly leaning towards, I was just disappointed that the salesman didn't even know which kits I was asking him about. However, thanks for your input it is appreciated.
 
1

16jku1231

New member
JKDream said:
You could save a good amount of money for your build by keeping the oem rear axle.
They're more than capable enough for 37's. Towing is going to be more dependent on your gearing.
A large majority of people running 37's are using the oem rear axle, WAL included on Rubicat.
Click to expand...

I will running 4.88s if I go with the 37s. Do you have a link to the RubiCat build. I am terrible at navigating this forum.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
I have a 2010 w/ Dynatrac PR44 up front, stock 44 rear, 4.88's and running 37's., 3.5" lift

I tow an 8' trailer over the summers and have not had any issues to date.

With the 3.8 I lock out OD even when on flat terrain, don't want it hunting for gears and heating up the transmission.

If you don't have a factory transmission cooler plan on adding a transmission cooler, burnt fluid will cause your transmission to fail quicker. On my 2010 because of the 37's and how much heavier it is I flush the transmission fluid once a year.

Regular 5-tire rotations (5000k miles) and a good maintenance routine (oil changes, gear oil changes) will help the longevity of your investment. Hot/burnt oil reduces the life of parts working that hard.

If you are going with the PR44 :)thumb:) invest in Dynatrac's ProGrip brakes, they will stop your Jeep on 37's and a trailer without leaving pucker marks on your seat, the brakes are an excellent upgrade.

Consider Hydro-assist like the PSC Motorsports system, it makes turning those 37's on the trail nice and easy but not necessary if it's mostly road use.

Have you considered a weight-distribution/sway bar control hitch for the trailer?

not part of your original question but for my maintenance routine:

oil changes every 5k miles

transmission/ rear axle gear oil change once a year

coolant flush - once a year

front diff every couple of years

I have 140k + miles and my 3.8 still runs strong. the power and transmission suck compared to my 2015 but I drive my 2010 everyday cause it's just fun.

I tend to be OCD about the maintenance only because I drive it everyday and it's heavy when i'm loaded and on the go.

of your lift choices I have Clayton Offroad but have driven Jeeps with EVO and would go with either lift. Johnny Joints are proven and I know they can take abuse.

teraflex still uses a JJ look-alike on some of their parts looks like they've switched to a rubber bushing (guess the joint failure rate was too high). I'd skip teraflex especially if you plan to tow.

enjoy!
 
Last edited:
1

16jku1231

New member
jeeeep said:
I have a 2010 w/ Dynatrac PR44 up front, stock 44 rear, 4.88's and running 37's., 3.5" lift

I tow an 8' trailer over the summers and have not had any issues to date.

With the 3.8 I lock out OD even when on flat terrain, don't want it hunting for gears and heating up the transmission.

If you don't have a factory transmission cooler plan on adding a transmission cooler, burnt fluid will cause your transmission to fail quicker. On my 2010 because of the 37's and how much heavier it is I flush the transmission fluid once a year.

Regular 5-tire rotations (5000k miles) and a good maintenance routine (oil changes, gear oil changes) will help the longevity of your investment. Hot/burnt oil reduces the life of parts working that hard.

If you are going with the PR44 :)thumb:) invest in Dynatrac's ProGrip brakes, they will stop your Jeep on 37's and a trailer without leaving pucker marks on your seat, the brakes are an excellent upgrade.

Consider Hydro-assist like the PSC Motorsports system, it makes turning those 37's on the trail nice and easy but not necessary if it's mostly road use.

Have you considered a weight-distribution/sway bar control hitch for the trailer?

not part of your original question but for my maintenance routine:

oil changes every 5k miles

transmission/ rear axle gear oil change once a year

coolant flush - once a year

front diff every couple of years

I have 140k + miles and my 3.8 still runs strong. the power and transmission suck compared to my 2015 but I drive my 2010 everyday cause it's just fun.

I tend to be OCD about the maintenance only because I drive it everyday and it's heavy when i'm loaded and on the go.

of your lift choices I have Clayton Offroad but have driven Jeeps with EVO and would go with either lift. Johnny Joints are proven and I know they can take abuse.

teraflex still uses a JJ look-alike on some of their parts looks like they've switched to a rubber bushing (guess the joint failure rate was too high). I'd skip teraflex especially if you plan to tow.

enjoy!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the great info, albeit overwhelming it definitely helps!

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
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