Regearing a 2017 Willys JKU...suggestions.

gheller

New member
I love everything about my 17 Willys W 6spd. Its my DD and occasionally will see some light off road but no serious rock crawling. (yet)

The one thing that I feel could use improvement is torque. I have 3:73 gearing and Cooper SST Pros 32" tires and i find i never use 6th gear beacuse at 75mph the wind resistance seems to be too much for the torque at 6th gear. Its like i have to press the skinny pedal down at least halfway to maintain 75mph. I roll in 5th gear, and at 70-75mph I'm at about 2600rpm and that feels fine. Also, when plowing through some deep snow, epsecially when parking, i am slipping the clutch alot to control torque and wheel spin. I feel like a gear ratio of 4:10-4:56 would be perfect.

So, with that background info in mind, what are your suggestions?

I'm thinking of just regearing both stock axles to 4:56.

I've also been looking into the Ultimate Dana Spicer 44 Front Axle assembly 10010520 which comes with Redesigned and thicker brackets Spicer® chromoly axle shafts Spicer Life Series® (SPL®) 1350 u-joints with triple lip seals and full-circle clips.

This axle would cost me about 3800.00 including shipping.

Description:
Fits 2007 to 2016 JK Wrangler, Rubicon and Unlimited 2 and 4-door models 4.56 Genuine Spicer® Gears 5/16" thick axle tubes for improved strength, rigidity and durability Redesigned and thicker brackets Spicer® chromoly axle shafts Spicer Life Series® (SPL®) 1350 u-joints with triple lip seals and full-circle clips Performance differential cover and Spicer® performance gasket Open differential - no locker included Improved caster angle and pinion angle optimized for lifted Jeeps Increased gross axle weight rating Dana recommends using military tested and approved 75W-140 synthetic lube (not included)

So, for my needs would I be better off just regearing my stock axles or going with an upgraded front axle as well?

I'm willing to spend between $3-5000.00 (including labor) but I would go as much as 8K if it would prove to be a smart buy.

This move would happen likely in the summer or fall of 2017 but I'd like to start learning about my options well before.
 

WJCO

Meme King
3.73 to 4.10 you may not even notice a difference. I say go 4.56 and you'll be able to utilize that 6th gear and definitely have more power with the other gears. I don't think you need to upgrade the axle, but if you do, I would rather recommend Dynatrac. The UD axle still has 2.5 inch tubes whereas the ProRock has 3 inch tubes. Also Dynatrac offers 1/2" thickness. The UD axle doesn't change the inner knuckle (C) whereas the ProRock has massive C's. For the cost, I would imagine Dynatrac would be very comparable. Plus you get a guaranteed made in USA axle and they will discuss your purchase with you regarding every option. That also comes with a patented high clearance housing. If you are going to spend the money, I would say do a locker at the same time otherwise you pay labor again as your Jeep addiction grows.
 

gheller

New member
3.73 to 4.10 you may not even notice a difference. I say go 4.56 and you'll be able to utilize that 6th gear and definitely have more power with the other gears. I don't think you need to upgrade the axle, but if you do, I would rather recommend Dynatrac. The UD axle still has 2.5 inch tubes whereas the ProRock has 3 inch tubes. Also Dynatrac offers 1/2" thickness. The UD axle doesn't change the inner knuckle (C) whereas the ProRock has massive C's. For the cost, I would imagine Dynatrac would be very comparable. Plus you get a guaranteed made in USA axle and they will discuss your purchase with you regarding every option. That also comes with a patented high clearance housing. If you are going to spend the money, I would say do a locker at the same time otherwise you pay labor again as your Jeep addiction grows.

Thanks, man. Good info.
I am def going with 4:56 being that I could have had 4:10 with a Rubi so I'd like to go beyond "stock". If I'm going to do it, rather do it once and be happy. Too much torque is always better than too little.

I'm thinking I would be happy with stock axles and regearing but if I go PR44 is it ok to have lockers in front and just an LSD diff in rear?

Does the PR44 offer electric locker in front? If not then I have to also consider air compressor system too.


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deezus

New member
IMO, go with 5.13, everyone else always says, there gonna stay at a certain tire size and light rock crawling myself included. Once you start lifting it and modding it you will want bigger tires and when that happens you will need 5.13 at least, that's a fact. Do 37s and 5.13s, don't waste your time and money with anything smaller. This way you can keep stock axles, and just beef the up with inner sleeves and gussets. Also, IMO, get driveshafts with USA made parts. In case your wondering, I didn't figure this out on my own, people in these forums told me this.....and I didn't listen hence I have 3 lift kits, and been through 4 sets of tires. But it's your jeep.

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WJCO

Meme King
Thanks, man. Good info.
I am def going with 4:56 being that I could have had 4:10 with a Rubi so I'd like to go beyond "stock". If I'm going to do it, rather do it once and be happy. Too much torque is always better than too little.

I'm thinking I would be happy with stock axles and regearing but if I go PR44 is it ok to have lockers in front and just an LSD diff in rear?

Does the PR44 offer electric locker in front? If not then I have to also consider air compressor system too.


Sent from Earth to Space and back...can ya give it a second!? WAYALIFE mobile app

Yes it's OK to have locker in front and LSD in rear. That's exactly what I'm currently running on mine.

As far as options, yes, they offer housings for both. If you go half way down on the screen on this link, you will see a link for FAQ regarding the axle: https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/prorock-44-axle.html. It will explain both housings that are offered. If you are doing a locker, it may not be a bad idea to go with air, because then you'll have a way to do tires as well. The ARB single is about 250-300 and the twin is about 500. If you have the $, the twin is amazing.
 
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WJCO

Meme King
IMO, go with 5.13, everyone else always says, there gonna stay at a certain tire size and light rock crawling myself included. Once you start lifting it and modding it you will want bigger tires and when that happens you will need 5.13 at least, that's a fact. Do 37s and 5.13s, don't waste your time and money with anything smaller. This way you can keep stock axles, and just beef the up with inner sleeves and gussets. Also, IMO, get driveshafts with USA made parts. In case your wondering, I didn't figure this out on my own, people in these forums told me this.....and I didn't listen hence I have 3 lift kits, and been through 4 sets of tires. But it's your jeep.

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Lol. There is some truth in this, but he's running 33s and just bought them. I think he'll stay with them for awhile.
 

gheller

New member
IMO, go with 5.13, everyone else always says, there gonna stay at a certain tire size and light rock crawling myself included. Once you start lifting it and modding it you will want bigger tires and when that happens you will need 5.13 at least, that's a fact. Do 37s and 5.13s, don't waste your time and money with anything smaller.

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Thanks for your response. I agree that most of us start small not thinking we will ever go big , and then eventually do want to go bigger and that entails additional expense.

However, I am content with my 32" shoes and really just want to gear for them to my liking.
If I went 5:13 then my stock axles would not suffice. Pinion gear would be way too small.
If anything, I may possibly consider 4:88? but I think just a bit lower gearing would really nail it for me without too much expense.


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kyle521

Member
I love everything about my 17 Willys W 6spd. Its my DD and occasionally will see some light off road but no serious rock crawling. (yet)

The one thing that I feel could use improvement is torque. I have 3:73 gearing and Cooper SST Pros 32" tires and i find i never use 6th gear beacuse at 75mph the wind resistance seems to be too much for the torque at 6th gear. Its like i have to press the skinny pedal down at least halfway to maintain 75mph. I roll in 5th gear, and at 70-75mph I'm at about 2600rpm and that feels fine. Also, when plowing through some deep snow, epsecially when parking, i am slipping the clutch alot to control torque and wheel spin. I feel like a gear ratio of 4:10-4:56 would be perfect.

So, with that background info in mind, what are your suggestions?

I'm thinking of just regearing both stock axles to 4:56.

I've also been looking into the Ultimate Dana Spicer 44 Front Axle assembly 10010520 which comes with Redesigned and thicker brackets Spicer® chromoly axle shafts Spicer Life Series® (SPL®) 1350 u-joints with triple lip seals and full-circle clips.

This axle would cost me about 3800.00 including shipping.

Description:
Fits 2007 to 2016 JK Wrangler, Rubicon and Unlimited 2 and 4-door models 4.56 Genuine Spicer® Gears 5/16" thick axle tubes for improved strength, rigidity and durability Redesigned and thicker brackets Spicer® chromoly axle shafts Spicer Life Series® (SPL®) 1350 u-joints with triple lip seals and full-circle clips Performance differential cover and Spicer® performance gasket Open differential - no locker included Improved caster angle and pinion angle optimized for lifted Jeeps Increased gross axle weight rating Dana recommends using military tested and approved 75W-140 synthetic lube (not included)

So, for my needs would I be better off just regearing my stock axles or going with an upgraded front axle as well?

I'm willing to spend between $3-5000.00 (including labor) but I would go as much as 8K if it would prove to be a smart buy.

This move would happen likely in the summer or fall of 2017 but I'd like to start learning about my options well before.

Just so you know, that spicer axle has been on sale for around $2,900
 

Saharaunlmtd

Caught the Bug
I'm thinking I would be happy with stock axles and regearing but if I go PR44 is it ok to have lockers in front and just an LSD diff in rear?

Does the PR44 offer electric locker in front? If not then I have to also consider air compressor system too.


Sent from Earth to Space and back...can ya give it a second!? WAYALIFE mobile app

I have a locker in front and LSD in the rear of my Willys. It works well.

At the beginning of my build, I thought I'd be content but I had a trail guide give me a hard time for running a black trail without a rear locker so it changed my opinion on the setup some.

May be worth going with a rear locker at the time of regear to prevent paying labor twice but it's hard to predict future needs for sure. The LSD may be all you ever need.


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gheller

New member
I have a locker in front and LSD in the rear of my Willys. It works well.

At the beginning of my build, I thought I'd be content but I had a trail guide give me a hard time for running a black trail without a rear locker so it changed my opinion on the setup some.

May be worth going with a rear locker at the time of regear to prevent paying labor twice but it's hard to predict future needs for sure. The LSD may be all you ever need.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Thanks for your info, glad to know it works well for you.
At this point I don't anticipate serious trail and crawling so regearing and front locker I think would be more than enough for me.
If I find in the future, say in a few years when I retire that I have time to hit some serious trails I could always add s locker in the rear.

Do you have an air locker or electronic?
I would prefer to go Electronic and not have to add on board air.


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Saharaunlmtd

Caught the Bug
Thanks for your info, glad to know it works well for you.
At this point I don't anticipate serious trail and crawling so regearing and front locker I think would be more than enough for me.
If I find in the future, say in a few years when I retire that I have time to hit some serious trails I could always add s locker in the rear.

Do you have an air locker or electronic?
I would prefer to go Electronic and not have to add on board air.


Sent from Earth to Space and back...can ya give it a second!? WAYALIFE mobile app

I swapped in a Rubicon D44 so I have an electric locker.


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gheller

New member
Yes it's OK to have locker in front and LSD in rear. That's exactly what I'm currently running on mine.

As far as options, yes, they offer housings for both. If you go half way down on the screen on this link, you will see a link for FAQ regarding the axle: https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/prorock-44-axle.html. It will explain both housings that are offered. If you are doing a locker, it may not be a bad idea to go with air, because then you'll have a way to do tires as well. The ARB single is about 250-300 and the twin is about 500. If you have the $, the twin is amazing.

Good info in that link. The FAQ answers a lot.

My feeling is that if I go with locker in front I'd go Electronic and just have s portable air compressor that I can throw in the Jeep for those times I go out adventuring.
I am guessing the Electronic locker is something I can hook up into my TrailRocker?


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2016WillysJKU

New member
Where do you live that you can't use 6th gear? I have the same jeep with the same gearing and use mine all the time going up and down the hills here in GA. I think you can save yourself a butt load of money by just learning to use what you have.


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deezus

New member
Lol. There is some truth in this, but he's running 33s and just bought them. I think he'll stay with them for awhile.
Sure he will, as soon as he hits some rocks he will be back on here asking us which gears are better so I'll save him some time, they are all made in the same factory.

[emoji1]

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gheller

New member
Where do you live that you can't use 6th gear? I have the same jeep with the same gearing and use mine all the time going up and down the hills here in GA. I think you can save yourself a butt load of money by just learning to use what you have.


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Like I said in my OP, I'm happy with the ride. I could live with it the way it is and be content, however it's a fact that it's in the very lower end of the "acceptable" torque/power ratio and that doesn't even take into consideration the extra rolling resistance coming from my wider MT tires.

I've tried 6th gear occasionally and I feel the engine is struggling to maintain higher speeds in it.

Personally, I always prefer to have a little more power than I need as opposed to being underpowered.

That's just me. Btw, I'm in New York.


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