Learned the coolest thing today

monstrousmac

Caught the Bug
So, I just proved again you are never to old to learn something new. While installing my new Poison Spyder Diff Covers I ended up snapping a bolt off flush with the axle housing. Bad part is it is a grade 8 bolt. Before any one asks yes I was using a torque wrench that I borrowed from work which are constantly sent to PMEL for calibration because we use them on Military Aircraft. Anyway I was torquing the bolts to 25 ft lbs as suggested. I was on the last bolt when it snapped. So, I got with the metal tech guys in my Squadron, they are pros at getting out stuck screws and busted bolts out on multi million dollar Aircraft.

My friend Brian from metals tech said bring it by my house and I will get it out. I figured he would use a drill bit and easy out. Nope, I was wrong he took a nut and put it over the hole with the broke bolt and plug welded the inside of the nut to the snapped off portion of the bolt and while it was still hot took a ratchet and socket and backed it out like butter. Man I would have been there for ever with a drill bit and easy out. Literally took him 2 minutes. Just thought I would share.
 

WJCO

Meme King
That's cool you were able to get it out like that. Someone just recently was asking about PS bolts snapping, I hadn't heard of it before. Sorry to hear it happened to you.
 

monstrousmac

Caught the Bug
To be honest I think it was a fluke or possible my fault for not feeling the torque wrench reaching the point. I was trying to finish it and it was the last nut. It was getting late and I had to be somewhere. So, I will take blame on this one. I know better, but lesson learned and I learned something new.
 

monstrousmac

Caught the Bug
He used a pair of vice grips to hold the nut as he welded the inside if the nut to the broken bolt shaft. Basically like a plug weld. Then he took a socket and put it on the nut and it came right out.
 

PATRIOTKJM

New member
Oldest trick in the book, it works 99% of the time and especially when loctite is involved. The heat from welding the nut to the shank of the bolt causes the broken bolt to expand and then contract as it cools which reduces the k factor in the thread interface. Remember to always let it cool after welding for best results!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Mark K

New member
So, I just proved again you are never to old to learn something new. While installing my new Poison Spyder Diff Covers I ended up snapping a bolt off flush with the axle housing. Bad part is it is a grade 8 bolt. Before any one asks yes I was using a torque wrench that I borrowed from work which are constantly sent to PMEL for calibration because we use them on Military Aircraft. Anyway I was torquing the bolts to 25 ft lbs as suggested. I was on the last bolt when it snapped. So, I got with the metal tech guys in my Squadron, they are pros at getting out stuck screws and busted bolts out on multi million dollar Aircraft.

My friend Brian from metals tech said bring it by my house and I will get it out. I figured he would use a drill bit and easy out. Nope, I was wrong he took a nut and put it over the hole with the broke bolt and plug welded the inside of the nut to the snapped off portion of the bolt and while it was still hot took a ratchet and socket and backed it out like butter. Man I would have been there for ever with a drill bit and easy out. Literally took him 2 minutes. Just thought I would share.

Howdy, Air Force! You may have just got an imported fake G8 fastener, not any fault with your wrenching. They have even got into military supply channels. Maybe 30 years ago, two of us in F4Ds were RTB after a Maverick training ride and I noticed Lead's starboard weapons rack was hanging by one bolt. He had to puke it off in the grass next to the runway before landing. Several years later, I got a call from an investigator who said the case involved fake fasteners. What's a poor Jeeper to do?
 
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