Spitballing axle gears and locker set up for my next step looking for input

desertrunner

Active Member
so with my wife's car getting payed off and me getting a raise here in 2 months, she has given me the green light to start researching the next step of my build and im looking for some help with my pros / cons list and best bang for my buck without breaking the bank

background i have a 12 2 dr sport 6 speed with the 3.21 gears 33s and a rubi t case on 4dr springs non DD
overall goal is to get this thing on 37s but thats going to be phase 3 of the build much later

current thoughts in my head 4.56s or 4.88s for gears (im thinking the 4.88s are going to be a bit too big for the 33s which i am going to have to live with for a while and i would like to still cruise at hwy speed for trips like getting out to Moab) and my personal preference would be electronic lockers (im familiar with the pros and cons on the E locker vs air)

First thought Rubi Axles roughly $3500
about the only pro i see for those is i get the E lockers and 3.73s or 4.10 or if i get lucky find a set someone put new gears in. And 32 spline rear shafts
cons: still looking at putting more money into them for bigger gears and risk a bent front housing when i go to 37s and then spending money twice for a front axle

2: PR44 configured with E locker and 4.56s my quote from Dynatrac was $5300 + cost of locker gears and set up for my stock rear ($7000 ish total)
Pros: solid set up IMO for the 33s and 37s, 4.56 gears and E locker i want
Cons: still have to buy the parts and either pay for set up or attempt my own gear set up for the rear. also still have the 30 spline shafts in the rear (unless there is a 35 spline E locker im not aware of???)

3: Dyanatrac trail leader pack $6500 + gear set up for the rear, and air compressor ($7600 ish total)
Pros: same as 2 for strength with 33s and 37s, 35 spline rear shafts
Cons: not all bad or deal breaker by any means but just my thoughts, gotta run ARB lockers which means added cost for the compressor and a less preferred locker type. Also per the package i have to get the 4.88s, once again not all bad just think they are a bit much for 33s
Also with the 35 spline shafts what becomes my weak link in the rear??? R&P? stock drive shaft?

4: Dynatrac 44/60 pack $10,600
Pros: strength, Preferred E lockers, Complete bolt up set with added perks of pro grips and gears set up
Cons: Price is the big one not sure how long it would take me to come up with that kinda cash, and 4.88s (once again not a deal breaker)

Other thing to consider that i havent started looking into is drive shafts as of right now i dont see a reason to ditch the stock shafts until i have to and when i do i would be most likely got for 1350s which is added cost for later or maybe now depending on axle set up i choose.

Well those are the 4 options currently on my mind if anyone has any other combinations i havent thought of or added pros and cons for the 4 i have come up with, the input is appreciated :thumb:
 

benatc1

Hooked
Lots of good choices, personally I'd skip the rubi axles and go with option 2 or 3, really imo 3 would be a better set up but understand if you don't want to run ARBs. While option 4 would be awesome if you are never going over 37s I question the NEED for a rear 60 until/if ever you blow through whatever option you choose for your rear end.


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desertrunner

Active Member
Lots of good choices, personally I'd skip the rubi axles and go with option 2 or 3, really imo 3 would be a better set up but understand if you don't want to run ARBs. While option 4 would be awesome if you are never going over 37s I question the NEED for a rear 60 until/if ever you blow through whatever option you choose for your rear end.


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im definitely on the same page as you 2 and 3 seem to be where i am realistically gonna go and i think 3 is a little better bang for the buck just a few details that are less preferred in my opinion. I just cant figure out where to draw the line when you think im almost 8G into it the step up to the 44/60 isnt a ton and is overkill for strength and has tons more perks. its just a hefty price tag haha and i still have to figure out what i want to do with drive shafts.

I guess that also begs the question can i keep my stock front driveshaft with a PR44?
 

jorgelrod

Hooked
First of all, no, 4.88 and 33's will not be so deep at highway speeds you'll regret it, if 37's is your endgame, go to 4.88 from the start.

Second, avoid Rubi takeoffs, options 3 and 2 are better options all around for a plethora of reasons expressed in countless threads here. The fact that the rear rubicon axle shafts are different lengths being one of them.

Third, in an investment as big as these, a few extra hundred on an air compressor is not that big a deal.


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cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Honestly I wouldn't do gears yet unless your upgrading tires at the same time. The gearing will be to low in all the situations you mentioned with the 33's. I would do one of the dynatrac packages IF you can afford new wheels and tires at the same time.
 

benatc1

Hooked
im definitely on the same page as you 2 and 3 seem to be where i am realistically gonna go and i think 3 is a little better bang for the buck just a few details that are less preferred in my opinion. I just cant figure out where to draw the line when you think im almost 8G into it the step up to the 44/60 isnt a ton and is overkill for strength and has tons more perks. its just a hefty price tag haha and i still have to figure out what i want to do with drive shafts.

I guess that also begs the question can i keep my stock front driveshaft with a PR44?

That's a good point about being close to that price anyway and why not go for it for the 44/60, maybe going with a "lesser" package will save you the money to do your tires/driveshafts and still be around that 10-11k-only issue is you'll need more lift to clear 37s. It also depends on how much you'll drive whether gears are ok now or not- I know it's not your DD but others make a good point, however you might be able to deal with it for a bit. Certainly only regear once (which you know)..I think your drive shafts will manage for a while until you really get to lifting more. I'm not 100% sure but I think you can get a pr44 with that flat yoke from a stock jk so you can keep stock driveline


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boardsurfer

Active Member
Also consider that your #4 comes with Pro Grips included. That's a pretty nice bonus. Plus, it is pretty much bolt in which you can do yourself and eliminate the sting of potential labor costs. It is a lot up front, but the best deal I think.

The PR44 package with the rear upgrade kit doesnt cost as much, but unless you're installing it yourself, you are back to paying for labor for the gears. At that point, you could save another $1000 and just get the 44/60 package.

No, I havent spent the last 3 months mulling this over, why do you ask? :D
 

aermotor

Member
I would say do not regear right now with 33s and just save your money to get what you want. If you don't wheel THAT hard you should be just fine.

I think a take off Rubi axles would be the cheapest way to go, that's what I did with my old Sahara. It's a bit of work to wire in the lockers but not too bad, pretty easy when they are independent from the computer. Even with 37s you don't need a PR44, and since 37s are a ways off, I wouldn't even consider it. Get a Rubi 44 and put some gussets on it and call it a day. If you ever do want a PR44 later you can just get the housing only and move your Rubi internals over to it—very cost effective way to go that most people don't think of, they spend another 2K+ for the ARB, shafts etc. so a PR44 costs you upwards of 5K vs 3K for front/rear!

I think we tend to think we always need more than we do. WOL shows us this. He's wheeled pretty much every configuration and I don't think we give stock Rubi stuff enough credit. Even with 37s, stock Rubi will take you pretty far.

Also, wheel your stock shafts until you break them. They are more capable than you think, especially on 33s.

Good luck!
 
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BananaJeep

Caught the Bug
IMO, I would go for option 4. That 60/44 combo kit is a killer deal for what you're getting, and you'd have the piece of mind knowing everything was done right. Then, if you ever want to go to 40s, you already have the axles to support it. Plus, not having to do your own re-gear is a big plus in my eyes!
 

scrota76

New member
I was on the same plan as you, pretty much. I am on 35's with no plan to go up to 37's. I wanted the PR44 front, was going to beef up the rear dana 44, then put in a 4 speed Atlas. Well, when the wife saw the final price tag, minus the Atlas, the plans had to change. This is where I'm at now:

Nitro 4.56 gears
Master rebuild kit
Nitro rear axle upgrade
ARB Rear locker (already have compressor installed)
Steel braided air line
New diff cover (old one was banged up)
And Labor cost all totals to
$3200

I know it still leaves me with a weak front end, but it gives me the traction i want/need. I figured if i break the front, then i will be forced to replace it.

Its worth mentioning that ARB might still be running a special where they are giving a free compressor with a locker purchase. That's $200 saved.

Just thought i might add an option 5.

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gmb425

New member
I was considering your option three for my build. Some of the forum members brought up great points that I did not think of before. I might change to your option four because it's good to consider the peace of mind of having Dynatrac install the axle parts. Another thing I didn't consider is adding the labor cost to your option three. I think I am going to change my mind to your option four (or Hard Core ProRock 60/60 Axle Set). Thanks for posting this subject... let us know what you decide.


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desertrunner

Active Member
Thanks for the input definitely a few things in there I didn't really consider.

A few people mentioned waiting on the gears until I'm ready for new tires but really the whole reason why I'm bringing this up now and why I want to figure out the most cost effective way to to it is the 3.21s are driving me insane it's terrible to drive around town and I feel like unless I'm driving with some decent speed 4hi is completely useless the rubi T case is my saving grace right now off road because the trip I took with it before I was constantly stalling it even in 4lo (maybe it's the shitty driver too hahaha). So that's really what's driving my decision to want to rip them out sooner rather than later and get 4.56s since the 37s are going to require much more money savings considering I'm on essentially a stock suspension.

Now there is the another cheaper option like buying the dynatrac kit for locker and shafts in the rear and just leave my front open and put the new gears in it but that brings up a few issues. 1 I'm spending $ on a D30, 2 have to pay for someone to set up the gears or attempt it myself, 3 the 3.21s will require a new carrier to fit 4.56s so if I'm getting a new carrier anyway why waste the money on another D30 open carrier haha. Just too many things that are going to make me spend money twice even though I don't think I'll break the dirty 30 on 33s but hey never know. Either way that option pushes me into the same money as rubi axles for an unlocked D30 front so that's out.

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desertrunner

Active Member
Really wish I could have snagged that PR44 and trail 60 that was for sale on here a few months ago. It even had 4.56s in it but the way the money worked out for me I would have had a stock jeep on road tires with bad ass axles haha. Who knows maybe someone upgrading to full floats will be getting rid of a set like that again sometime.

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ADA OZ

New member
Labor, labor and more labor. Lots of savings if you can do the work yourself. Regear wasn't all that bad. Take you time. Check and double check. All good.


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aermotor

Member
Thanks for the input definitely a few things in there I didn't really consider.

A few people mentioned waiting on the gears until I'm ready for new tires but really the whole reason why I'm bringing this up now and why I want to figure out the most cost effective way to to it is the 3.21s are driving me insane it's terrible to drive around town and I feel like unless I'm driving with some decent speed 4hi is completely useless the rubi T case is my saving grace right now off road because the trip I took with it before I was constantly stalling it even in 4lo (maybe it's the shitty driver too hahaha). So that's really what's driving my decision to want to rip them out sooner rather than later and get 4.56s since the 37s are going to require much more money savings considering I'm on essentially a stock suspension.

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Again, find some take off Rubi 44s. Stronger, lockers, better gears, cheapest way to get you a lot better off than you think. Upgrade from there when/if you need to. Chromo shafts. Drive shafts. Tires etc. That will last you a long time on 33s. Don't let the gear envy overtake you and make you think you need ProRocks. Especially not on 33s. Sure, Rubi axles aren't as "sexy" as having ProRocks, but they are 1/4 the cost and will go a long way.
 

Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
I would say do not regear right now with 33s and just save your money to get what you want. If you don't wheel THAT hard you should be just fine.

I think a take off Rubi axles would be the cheapest way to go, that's what I did with my old Sahara. It's a bit of work to wire in the lockers but not too bad, pretty easy when they are independent from the computer. Even with 37s you don't need a PR44, and since 37s are a ways off, I wouldn't even consider it. Get a Rubi 44 and put some gussets on it and call it a day. If you ever do want a PR44 later you can just get the housing only and move your Rubi internals over to it—very cost effective way to go that most people don't think of, they spend another 2K+ for the ARB, shafts etc. so a PR44 costs you upwards of 5K vs 3K.

I think we tend to think we always need more than we do. WOL shows us this. He's wheeled pretty much every configuration and I don't think we give stock Rubi stuff enough credit. Even with 37s, stock Rubi will take you pretty far.

Also, wheel your stock shafts until you break them. They are more capable than you think, especially on 33s.

Good luck!

Great advice as I've done both. I regeared and kind of regret spending 2k on it when I could of put it towards axles. Then I just bought a d44 housing and put an Arb and 35 spline shafts. Eventually will go pr44 when I break mine. With 33s you're fine where you're at till you save for axles. You can run stock drive shaft with the pr44. 60 I believe you have to upgrade to a 1350. Most 1310s are good up to 37" tires.


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desertrunner

Active Member
Labor, labor and more labor. Lots of savings if you can do the work yourself. Regear wasn't all that bad. Take you time. Check and double check. All good.


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Yeah i have helped with one set of gear set up on my buddies XJ and it was a paint but doable and i read up on better tips and tricks we didnt use before so im not opposed to doing a set myself especially since its not my DD

Again, find some take off Rubi 44s. Stronger, lockers, better gears, cheapest way to get you a lot better off than you think. Upgrade from there when/if you need to. Chromo shafts. Drive shafts. Tires etc. That will last you a long time on 33s. Don't let the gear envy overtake you and make you think you need ProRocks. Especially not on 33s. Sure, Rubi axles aren't as "sexy" as having ProRocks, but they are 1/4 the cost and will go a long way.

I do feel ya on the cost savings there i know the rubi axles will last me a long time on 33s and even on 37s i could get the PR44 housing when the time comes. my only reservation to the rubi axles is strength of the internals on 37s later down the road it is about 1/2 the cost up front. i would hate to trash the rubi lockers and then end up spending the money twice upgrading later, especially since the Rubi internals dont fit in a standard PR44 housing and their locker shaft kit doesnt fit the rubi 44 rear. So if i trash the internals im starting all over again. That being said i had 37s on my 08 Rubi with stock axles and i never broke anything in the rear but upfront i did buy the dynatrac ball joints and i had a front axle seal leak that i suspect was a bent housing. so when you think the cost of rubi axles plus ball joints and the PR44 housing im not that far off price wise from the Dynatrac trail leader package or my option 2 that in my opinion is a stronger set up.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
If you can manage to save up 2-3x more and wait longer, then go for it.

yeah either way i have to start saving up so if its looking like i cant come up with the 8G anytime soon the rubi Axles are a great option for sure especially only on 33s and if a take it slower with a step to 35s before the dream of 37s happen
 

desertrunner

Active Member
Just so i have my facts straight
the stock sport D44 rear has equal length 30 spline shafts correct?
the rubi rear has un equal length 32 spline shafts?

and does eaton make a E locker for the rear 44 with anything other than 30 spline?
so if i went with the eaton E locker in the rear 30 spline my stock shafts should fit??

thinkin maybe PR44 front E locker with 4.56s ($5300) plus E locker and 4.56s rear with my stock shafts would set me back $1400 if i set the gears myself for $6700 total.

which is the same price as Dynatrac trail leader with ARBs and 35 spline rear shafts, so not quite as strong but i can run the 4.56s and E lockers i prefer

just thinking out loud and checking some facts :thumb:
 
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