Which lift?

Buneewunee

Buneewunee

New member
So I got a new 2017 JKUR Hardrock edition. I decided to go with the Full Traction lift kit. Now I need some input on which one... 3" or 4" long arm or 3" or 4" regular arm.

A little history... I traded in my 2015 JKUR Hardrock due to death wobbles that wouldn't go away from a dealer installed 4" Mopar lift kit. Even though the service manager was very accommodating, I got tired of leaving my jeep at the dealership weeks at a time (First time to get it fixed, 4 weeks; second time, 3 weeks). That was my first experience with having a lift kit installed on my jeep, so to say the least, it left me a bit jaded and worried now about installing another lift kit.

Anyhow,,,I plan on adding the Fox 2.0 reservoir shocks, Fox ATS steering stabilizer and Teraflex front and rear speed bump bump stops with the lift kit I decide to go with, along with 35" tires. I know with the 4" I need a new front driveshaft (and rear?), but If I go with the 3", do I need new drive shafts (front or rear or both)? It's gonna be a daily driver with some off roading (but no crazy rock crawling).


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Oreo

Oreo

New member
On 2012+ Wranglers you will want to install an aftermarket front driveshaft. Even with exhaust spacers installed the output shaft boot will be pinched. I'd recommend going ahead and doing the rear too while you're at it. Double-cardan shafts are much stronger than the stock shafts and will be more reliable while wheeling.

The sole purpose of a long arm lift is to correct suspension geometry and restore it as close to stock as possible. You can run up to a 4" lift on stock control arms without major problems but personally I would recommend a long arm after 3.5" of lift.
 
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Buneewunee

Buneewunee

New member
Oreo said:
On 2012+ Wranglers you will want to install an aftermarket front driveshaft. Even with exhaust spacers installed the output shaft boot will be pinched. I'd recommend going ahead and doing the rear too while you're at it. Double-cardan shafts are much stronger than the stock shafts and will be more reliable while wheeling.

The sole purpose of a long arm lift is to correct suspension geometry and restore it as close to stock as possible. You can run up to a 4" lift on stock control arms without major problems but personally I would recommend a long arm after 3.5" of lift.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Any suggestions for the driveshafts. A friend of mine has JE Real and Northridge 4x4 recommended Adams.


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Oreo

Oreo

New member
Buneewunee said:
Thanks. Any suggestions for the driveshafts. A friend of mine has JE Real and Northridge 4x4 recommended Adams.


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Click to expand...

I would recommend Adams. Another option would be to have a local power train shop build one for you. They can have one made for likely around the same price as Adams, JE Reel, etc. In that case if you ever have problems with either of your shafts you can go straight to them as opposed to emailing Adams and waiting for a response.
 
Buneewunee

Buneewunee

New member
Oreo said:
I would recommend Adams. Another option would be to have a local power train shop build one for you. They can have one made for likely around the same price as Adams, JE Reel, etc. In that case if you ever have problems with either of your shafts you can go straight to them as opposed to emailing Adams and waiting for a response.
Click to expand...

What's the difference between 1310 and 1350?


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J

JKDream

Guest
Oreo said:
Most people run 1310's as you want the u-joint to be your weak point of your drivechain instead of your gears. Once you move up to d60's and larger tires 1350's are the way to go.
View attachment 253379
Click to expand...

I wouldn't necessarily say this is the case - if anything more people are using 1350's.
1310 is a downgrade from your factory driveshaft which uses a 1330 joint.
I don't know about you, but I'd rather use a 1350 and with a proper gearset not worry about breaking anything then using a 1310 as a "weak point"
 
J

JKDream

Guest
Also to the OP - I would advise against the Fox steering stabilizer and the Teraflex bumpstops.
You don't want a nitrogen charged steering stabilizer. It will cause your vehicle to be constantly pulling to one side because the shock wants to extend.
The OEM one serves just fine for any application. As for the speedbumps - you're paying a LOT of money for foam in a can.
If you're determined to get different bumps from the traditional style - I would be looking at King.
 
Buneewunee

Buneewunee

New member
JKDream said:
I wouldn't necessarily say this is the case - if anything more people are using 1350's.
1310 is a downgrade from your factory driveshaft which uses a 1330 joint.
I don't know about you, but I'd rather use a 1350 and with a proper gearset not worry about breaking anything then using a 1310 as a "weak point"
Click to expand...

So, whichever driveshaft I choose, is it just "plug and play" (remove old one and just insert new one without any modifications?


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J

JKDream

Guest
Buneewunee said:
So, whichever driveshaft I choose, is it just "plug and play" (remove old one and just insert new one without any modifications?


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Click to expand...

Yes/No.

You'll most likely need to remove the yokes on both the Transfer Case and the Pinion unless it comes with an adapter.
 
Oreo

Oreo

New member
JKDream said:
I wouldn't necessarily say this is the case - if anything more people are using 1350's.
1310 is a downgrade from your factory driveshaft which uses a 1330 joint.
I don't know about you, but I'd rather use a 1350 and with a proper gearset not worry about breaking anything then using a 1310 as a "weak point"
Click to expand...

Yes, I agree. However he didn't mentioning re-gearing in the post.
 
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chuck79

chuck79

New member
You can choose almost any combo of yokes. On a jku you don't need a new rear. And that new front needs to stay greased or will seize up and explode your transfer case.


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Eezybreezy08

Eezybreezy08

New member
Buneewunee said:
Will the long arm kit be less likely to get the death wobbles since the suspension geometry will be more similar to stock?


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Click to expand...

Your lift height and control arm size will depend on what tires your running. I'm no expert but most from what I read is if your gonna stay around 35in tires then go with a 3 in lift. You can even run 37 on a 3in. With that height you can stick with regular length control arms. I personally like to keep my jeep close to my tires. That's why I run a leveling kit with 35. I want to say I read on here before that long arms aren't really needed until you get to 40in tires. Now I know a lot of people run them with 37s. So I'm not saying you can't, I'm just saying think about what you really need before you go over board with another lift that might not be set up exactly right and you spend a lifetime trying to get your geometry correct. Like I said I'm not an expert this is just a brief answer to try and help a little


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Buneewunee

Buneewunee

New member
WJCO said:
There has to be play somewhere for DW to ocurr, has nothing to do with the length of the arms.
Click to expand...

I don't know what the installer at the dealership did, but according to them, they tightened everything up and even took it to a 4x4 installer to get their opinion. Upon his suggestion, the dealership added two adjustable lower control arms and an adjustable front track bar and rebalanced the tires and did another alignment, but still got the death wobbles.


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