Evo 3" Enforcer Lift Question JKU
- Thread starter Zevulin
- Start date
Robertcrav
Member
Toe in does not change with solid axle vehicles
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
As mentioned, toe will NOT change with the installation of a lift. Unlike the TJ before which had a tie rod connected to the drag link, the JK steering system was designed with a tie rod that is connected to the knuckles and independent of the drag link. As far as axle shift goes, you will see enough of one that a drag link flip/track bar relocation bracket will benefit your handling and correct your shift.
Robertcrav
Member
Caster can be corrected with either control arm drop brackets or adjustable arms
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Correct but, I would not recommend drop brackets. Adjustable control arms (which come with the Enforcer kit) are a much better solution and one that won't lower a point that gets hit all the time. :yup:
PHX JK
Member
Side to side Shift
As far as other Alignment Angles are concerned the Instructions on the Enforcer have you set the Adjustable lower front arms to 22 7/8"
MY Caster stock before the lift was 4.2
After the lift with Arms set to 22 7/8" was 3.8
After my Adjustments 4.7 to start (will see how the driveline feels at highway speeds )
Just a side note: In My driveway I used my I Phone to measure the angles of a flipped drag link and The Front track bar before welding on a Raised front
track bar bracket.
With a slight slope to the driveway my flipped drag-link measures 8.0 degrees
the not lifted front stock track bar is at 15.5 degrees. Basically almost twice as steep as the flipped drag link.
On your 3 in Kit you will still need to get a raised front track bar bracket. with all things being equal (vehicle weight etc) you will change front axle shift to the left, caster with stock arm length, and drag-link and track bar angles 75% as much as the 4 in changed my angles.
For example if my front axle shifted left 1 in yours would be 3/4" if the Caster on your 22 7/8" lower arms was 3.8 degrees would only get probably 4.0 degrees caster.
The Evo Drag-link Flip Kit is an Easy way to Achieve this , I opted to Currie Currectlync Steering and a Weld on front bracket because I wanted a bit more
beef in the steering . But this option is about $300 more bucks. What ever you do weld on your track-bar brackets and keep torque on those bolts!!!
PHX
I just installed my 4in Enforcer and with the stock non adjustable track-bar the front axle has shifted left quite a bit. With the raised track bar bracket I'm having welded on tomorrow it should shift the Axle right again close to stock.
As far as other Alignment Angles are concerned the Instructions on the Enforcer have you set the Adjustable lower front arms to 22 7/8"
MY Caster stock before the lift was 4.2
After the lift with Arms set to 22 7/8" was 3.8
After my Adjustments 4.7 to start (will see how the driveline feels at highway speeds )
Just a side note: In My driveway I used my I Phone to measure the angles of a flipped drag link and The Front track bar before welding on a Raised front
track bar bracket.
With a slight slope to the driveway my flipped drag-link measures 8.0 degrees
the not lifted front stock track bar is at 15.5 degrees. Basically almost twice as steep as the flipped drag link.
On your 3 in Kit you will still need to get a raised front track bar bracket. with all things being equal (vehicle weight etc) you will change front axle shift to the left, caster with stock arm length, and drag-link and track bar angles 75% as much as the 4 in changed my angles.
For example if my front axle shifted left 1 in yours would be 3/4" if the Caster on your 22 7/8" lower arms was 3.8 degrees would only get probably 4.0 degrees caster.
The Evo Drag-link Flip Kit is an Easy way to Achieve this , I opted to Currie Currectlync Steering and a Weld on front bracket because I wanted a bit more
beef in the steering . But this option is about $300 more bucks. What ever you do weld on your track-bar brackets and keep torque on those bolts!!!
PHX
Last edited:
Andy5160
Hooked
Yep i was steered away from drop brackets by Eddie's advise.
Zevulin
New member
Curious why Evo wouldn't include the drag link flip as part of the lift kit?
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Honestly, I've always wondered the same thing too. :crazyeyes:
PHX JK
Member
I almost went Currie because it was more Complete
You are stuck having do the corrections to the front steering and track bar angles so it should be part of the basic Enforcer.
The Currie kit is more money yet more complete. At the end of the day I've had to spend
Shocks basically $500 (Cheap Rancho 9000)
Raised Front Track Bar Bracket $125 (Synergy MFG)
Currie Currectlync Steering kit with flipped option $600
Welding or Front, Rear track bar Brackets and C-Gussets $300
On required shocks and required steering and track bar relocation
That alone is $1225 added to the price of the kit so It to me is basically a $2500 to $2600 kit before welding, a front drive shaft, spacers
and thats if you do the work your self. Yes you can cut the fat with getting the EVO flip kit then its sill about a $2200 to $2300 kit before
welding, installation, alignment. It's business plant the seed and get them on the hook for more:brows:
PHX
You are stuck having do the corrections to the front steering and track bar angles so it should be part of the basic Enforcer.
The Currie kit is more money yet more complete. At the end of the day I've had to spend
Shocks basically $500 (Cheap Rancho 9000)
Raised Front Track Bar Bracket $125 (Synergy MFG)
Currie Currectlync Steering kit with flipped option $600
Welding or Front, Rear track bar Brackets and C-Gussets $300
On required shocks and required steering and track bar relocation
That alone is $1225 added to the price of the kit so It to me is basically a $2500 to $2600 kit before welding, a front drive shaft, spacers
and thats if you do the work your self. Yes you can cut the fat with getting the EVO flip kit then its sill about a $2200 to $2300 kit before
welding, installation, alignment. It's business plant the seed and get them on the hook for more:brows:
PHX
Zevulin
New member
Appreciate all the information! Question, it's my understanding the stock front drive shaft can continue to be used, why does Evo recommend changing it? I'm about to pull the trigger on the Enforcer 3" lift and just trying to get all my proverbial ducks in a row so I have everything I need once I start the install.
Thx!
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
ANY lift that yields 3" or more of lift will have your front drive shaft sitting at steep enough of an angle that your CV boot will be in a constant state of pinch. This will cause the boot and the joint to fail prematurely. Of course, if you run shocks that provide too much droop, the slip shaft boot on your factory front shaft will make contact with the exhaust cross over and it will get torn.
JeepJeep75
New member
You can get by without a front drive shaft upgrade, but eventually, your stock drive shaft will fail from a constant state of pinch that the front rubber boot is in. Then it spits out its grease and you know the rest. Most likely, it'll fail when you "need" it to work for you out on the trail.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
PHX JK
Member
Yes you need a good front driveshaft
I doubt I will go to 37s I'm starting to see 35's as the Sweet Spot. I Debated 3 in or 4 and I'm Glad I went 4in
because you still have to correct the Steering and get a drive shaft up front anyway. Every One thinks my lift looks Spot
on.
PHX
Depending if you are going to 37's you need a double jointed 1310 or 1350. I went with the Adams 1310
I doubt I will go to 37s I'm starting to see 35's as the Sweet Spot. I Debated 3 in or 4 and I'm Glad I went 4in
because you still have to correct the Steering and get a drive shaft up front anyway. Every One thinks my lift looks Spot
on.
PHX
Zevulin
New member
I don't plan on ever going bigger than 35's, any recommendation for a quality aftermarket front driveshaft?
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
PHX JK
Member
The Adams 1310 solid with spicer
Joints it's $475
1350 shafts are close to 700 and tend to rub trans linkage.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Joints it's $475
1350 shafts are close to 700 and tend to rub trans linkage.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
While a 1310 will work, the one u-joint that exists on a factory front drive shaft is a 1330. As in, it is STRONGER than a 1310. On a TJ, they are fine but on a JK, I personally would NOT recommend a 1310 and based on experience in seeing them fail. I have NEVER had or seen any of the 1350's I've run rub on trans linkage. Of course, that's just me.
Robertcrav
Member
PHX JK
Member
1350 were kinda my School of Thought too
The Nissan Titan has 1350's on the rear and I've seen them 4 in lift and 200k odo trouble free (I'm a master Nissan tech)
My 4wd shop talked me into ordering the 1310 over the 1350 citing it being the one the one he's had the best luck with in rigs like mine
application and rubbing issues. He Also Sold Me the Nitto Trail Grapplers over the Coopers I wanted. I must admit the Grapplers look and ride Awesome
Still Like the Coopers and the Jeep guys are Clamoring Over them. The woods web site talks about 1310 being better for the more mild rigs with v6s and 35 vs the V8 powered 40in rigs running 60's
My opinion well I decided to take an Experienced Jeep builders advice and save the $300 and go 1310 spicer solid on my Rubicon. If I have a problem I will go JE Reel and go 1350 next time. For even money I like the Idea of the 1350's dude I can sort out some minor rubbing. I'm gonna chalk it it as the $300 savings made the 1310s look good more than anything. Mt Sweetheart is starting to raise her eyebrows and the
money I've spent on a vehicle I've had for a month.
PHX:beer::beer::beer:
The Nissan Titan has 1350's on the rear and I've seen them 4 in lift and 200k odo trouble free (I'm a master Nissan tech)
My 4wd shop talked me into ordering the 1310 over the 1350 citing it being the one the one he's had the best luck with in rigs like mine
application and rubbing issues. He Also Sold Me the Nitto Trail Grapplers over the Coopers I wanted. I must admit the Grapplers look and ride Awesome
Still Like the Coopers and the Jeep guys are Clamoring Over them. The woods web site talks about 1310 being better for the more mild rigs with v6s and 35 vs the V8 powered 40in rigs running 60's
My opinion well I decided to take an Experienced Jeep builders advice and save the $300 and go 1310 spicer solid on my Rubicon. If I have a problem I will go JE Reel and go 1350 next time. For even money I like the Idea of the 1350's dude I can sort out some minor rubbing. I'm gonna chalk it it as the $300 savings made the 1310s look good more than anything. Mt Sweetheart is starting to raise her eyebrows and the
money I've spent on a vehicle I've had for a month.
PHX:beer::beer::beer:
LOL!! I'm just a guy with a website and don't have a 4WD shop to talk me into things. I have run Trail Grapplers in the past and now run STT Pros and for me personally, I'd take the later any day of the week. As far as Wood's go, the only thing I can tell you is that I have seen his shafts and the gold seal u-joints he likes to use blow time and time again. While I my not be an "experienced jeep builder", I have stayed in a Holiday Inn Express before.
As I always say, it's you're money, you're Jeep and you should do whatever it is you think is best with both. :yup: