From Smittybilt XRC armor to Poison Spyder.. anyone make the switch?

Currently have Smittybilt XRC front fender, rear fender, body cladding, and their rock sliders. I am going to swap to Poison Spyder's crusher flare and stock fender up front, their brawler rockers, and their crusher corner and crusher flare in the rear.. I am curious about the nutserts already installed from the Smittybilt XRC armor and if anyone has experience with making the switch and if any of the old nutserts going to cause any problems? I would imagine if any problem it would be with the body cladding portion and not with the fenders..
 
J

JKDream

Guest
Currently have Smittybilt XRC front fender, rear fender, body cladding, and their rock sliders. I am going to swap to Poison Spyder's crusher flare and stock fender up front, their brawler rockers, and their crusher corner and crusher flare in the rear.. I am curious about the nutserts already installed from the Smittybilt XRC armor and if anyone has experience with making the switch and if any of the old nutserts going to cause any problems? I would imagine if any problem it would be with the body cladding portion and not with the fenders..

The rocker cladding won't line up with Poison Spyders.
Friend made the switch awhile ago - we had to fill weld the holes as some of the PSC nutserts were off to the side - but not enough to drill a new hole.
 
The rocker cladding won't line up with Poison Spyders.
Friend made the switch awhile ago - we had to fill weld the holes as some of the PSC nutserts were off to the side - but not enough to drill a new hole.

That makes sense and was I was worried about, not being off enough to drill a new hole. Good fix idea - appreciate it!
 

RageKage

Member
I had this exact same thought! I have the XRC armor front and rear but not the body cladding. Was looking at doing the narrow crusher flares front and rear and possibly sliders. Hopefully the old nutserts don't get in the way of everything. Make a write up as you go so I can see how it's done.


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I had this exact same thought! I have the XRC armor front and rear but not the body cladding. Was looking at doing the narrow crusher flares front and rear and possibly sliders. Hopefully the old nutserts don't get in the way of everything. Make a write up as you go so I can see how it's done.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

I think the body cladding is probably going to be the issue so you might be in the clear. I went with aluminum narrow up front and steel standard in the rear (they don't sell narrow in the rear, the standard rear width matches with the front narrow FYI according tho whoever i spoke to at PSC)
 

RageKage

Member
Since you had to cut the support tab off of the subframe for the front XRC fender are you going to leave it as is or replace the subframe? I know the front crusher flares bolt to that support tab to help disperse any shock or load put on the fender but if and when I go that route I was just going to leave it as is. Also did you keep your stock front panels? I tossed mine but found some replacement ones for like 140 each.


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Since you had to cut the support tab off of the subframe for the front XRC fender are you going to leave it as is or replace the subframe? I know the front crusher flares bolt to that support tab to help disperse any shock or load put on the fender but if and when I go that route I was just going to leave it as is. Also did you keep your stock front panels? I tossed mine but found some replacement ones for like 140 each.


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I sold mine but then picked up another pair, forget how much I paid for them. I wrapped them green to match my jeep anyways. I might fab something up.. haven't gotten that far yet haha still struggling to get anything off. Cant get a bolt off on the sliders.. socket just keeps slipping off the nut. Also can't get the side cowl piece off the front fender to remove the front fender.. so currently fighting with those two things.
 

RageKage

Member
Gotcha. Yea I just seen your post. Try soaking with PB blaster or WD40. Also try using a standard size socket. Should be either 5/8 or 11/16. That hairline difference might be all you need.


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