Going to 37's on a 2016 sport JKU

Rubiconsean23

Rubiconsean23

Member
I am looking for advice on upgrading from 35's to 37's BFG TAKO2's and what you guys have gone through who have done it. What size is your lift kit? What are your gears?
Thanks! I still have stock gears at 3.21 also


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Speedy_RCW

Speedy_RCW

Hooked
Rubiconsean23 said:
I am looking for advice on upgrading from 35's to 37's BFG TAKO2's and what you guys have gone through who have done it. What size is your lift kit? What are your gears?
Thanks! I still have stock gears at 3.21 also


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Click to expand...

Isn't it a turd with 35's and 3.21? It'll be a bigger turd with 37's. not to mention you'll be rolling the dice every time you wheel.


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mo0s3

mo0s3

New member
You prolly want to go 3 1/2 lift c gussets and at the most on a 30 will be 4:88 gears. You will be upgrading to atleast a dana 44 . Most here if not everyone here will say do not do it. Personally i would save the cash and get a axle then make the jump but it is your rig.


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zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
Get yourself a front Dana 44 (like a pro rock) and 5.13 gears. Then get 37's. If you can't afford it, then don't go to 37's.
 
austin160

austin160

Member
I just did this. It will run you at least 6k to do it right, and that was with me getting a deal on axles and doing the majority of the work myself. You WILL hardly be able to turn 37's on 3.21 gears, it will suck! Better hope you don't stop going up hill.
here is my list:
D44 front and rear
4.88
C gussets
sleeves
front drive shaft
beefier tie rod and drag link
3.5" lift
trim fenders

This is just the minimum to run them. I found a set of Rubi axles for 2k and did a complete rebuild. Then the lift, installed myself along with the axles. Do some research before your start. There is a ton of information out there.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
zimm said:
Get yourself a front Dana 44 (like a pro rock) and 5.13 gears. Then get 37's. If you can't afford it, then don't go to 37's.
Click to expand...

well hell...i have the pr44 but not the gears on my 3.8 but even when I was running the stock D44 with the same 4.88's it ran fine.
Personally I wouldn't consider going to a 5:13 unless I was moving into a 60 or 80 because of the r&p

with the 3.6 and much better transmission, 4.88's will get the job done up to 37's.
If you have a D30 up front I wouldn't put a locker in it... save up for a pr44
 
zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
As you said, 3.6 is a different animal on gearing. Sure 4.88 will get the job done, but 5.13 is ever better. I'm running 4.88 on 35's, it's perfect. When I go to 37's, I'll wish I had 5.13's.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
austin160 said:
I just did this. It will run you at least 6k to do it right, and that was with me getting a deal on axles and doing the majority of the work myself. You WILL hardly be able to turn 37's on 3.21 gears, it will suck! Better hope you don't stop going up hill.
here is my list:
D44 front and rear
4.88
C gussets
sleeves
front drive shaft
beefier tie rod and drag link
3.5" lift
trim fenders

This is just the minimum to run them. I found a set of Rubi axles for 2k and did a complete rebuild. Then the lift, installed myself along with the axles. Do some research before your start. There is a ton of information out there.
Click to expand...

this is about right.
don't need the sleeves, just an unnecessary expense
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
zimm said:
As you said, 3.6 is a different animal on gearing. Sure 4.88 will get the job done, but 5.13 is ever better. I'm running 4.88 on 35's, it's perfect. When I go to 37's, I'll wish I had 5.13's.
Click to expand...

You'll actually be surprised how little difference there is with the 4.88 and 5.13 on the 3.6
It's not like it is with a 3.8

I'll have to double-check the tire sizes of the Jeeps I drove but they were both newer one had 35 and I thought the other had 37 both geared 4.88
 
austin160

austin160

Member
zimm said:
As you said, 3.6 is a different animal on gearing. Sure 4.88 will get the job done, but 5.13 is ever better. I'm running 4.88 on 35's, it's perfect. When I go to 37's, I'll wish I had 5.13's.
Click to expand...
I'm running 4.88 with 37's in 3.6 and it is perfect FOR A MANUAL. My buddy has the same set up with an auto and wants 5.13. I get around 16mpg and can still use first gear, but normally start in second so I don't have to shift so quick.
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
jeeeep said:
You'll actually be surprised how little difference there is with the 4.88 and 5.13 on the 3.6
It's not like it is with a 3.8
Click to expand...

austin160 said:
I'm running 4.88 with 37's in 3.6 and it is perfect FOR A MANUAL. My buddy has the same set up with an auto and wants 5.13. I get around 16mpg and can still use first gear, but normally start in second so I don't have to shift so quick.
Click to expand...

I ran 37's on 4:88's until I bought my axles & then went with 5:13's. Is it a huge difference? No. But it most definitely is an improvement in acceleration, especially from a standing stop.

Edit - I'm running a '14 auto
 
J

JKDream

Guest
jeeeep said:
You'll actually be surprised how little difference there is with the 4.88 and 5.13 on the 3.6
It's not like it is with a 3.8

I'll have to double-check the tire sizes of the Jeeps I drove but they were both newer one had 35 and I thought the other had 37 both geared 4.88
Click to expand...
I'm not so sure I'd agree with this. I had 4:88s for a long time prior to 5:13s on my 44s. The torque difference between the two is quite noticable as is the highway commuting. I can spin tires with 5:13s quite easily.
 
R

rockwell

Member
JKDream said:
I'm not so sure I'd agree with this. I had 4:88s for a long time prior to 5:13s on my 44s. The torque difference between the two is quite noticable as is the highway commuting. I can spin tires with 5:13s quite easily.
Click to expand...

Are you saying you like the 5.13s better with the 37s?
 
J

JKDream

Guest
rockwell said:
Are you saying you like the 5.13s better with the 37s?
Click to expand...

Yes, but I also live in an area with mountains everywhere, a majority of the city is built on the side of a mountain.
The torque is extremely nice to have when climbing up anything and I can actually accelerate up a hill.
If I lived somewhere where I drove a significant amount of highway I would probably do 4:88 as I'm getting up there in RPMs when doing 70-80mph.

Either one is an upgrade honestly, I'd look at 4:88 as a "standard" setup for 37's and 5:13's as a "performance" setup.

I also wheel my Jeep 2-3 times a week, so that plays a big factor in gear choices.
If you wheel occasionally, 4:88 may be a better choice for you (my opinion).
 
AZ Explorer

AZ Explorer

Caught the Bug
15 auto. 5.13 gears work great for me, perfect powerband for my uses. Being in Arizona I do actually do mountain driving.
 
PHX JK

PHX JK

Member
I'm gonna eventually end up on 37's in phase 2 of my build. In my opinion 5:13 are the way to go with the 3.6 on 37's
I would get a PR 44 up front and consider a 4 in lift.
I did the EVO 4 in, before going 44's I will truss my stock dyna 44 get cromo axle shafts, new unit bearings, Dynatrac Ball Joints and the 5:13s to replace my 4:10's I'm not sure what steering upgrade I'm gonna do I like the idea of the new PSC XD steering Box but might go Redneck Ram? I've go time to figure it out.

Once I wear my 35's down the Ball Joints and Unit Bearing will have about had there ass kicked so big 37's will just finish them off at that Point.
My Rule of Thumb Ball Joints and Front Wheel Bearings are Good for One full wear Cycle on a 35in Up Mud Tire Unless you like doing the work twice.

Putting 37's on a Not so well built Jeep it like a Fat Housewife with a Boob Job,
PHX
 
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