How to paint bare steel bumper and heavy duty tie rod/drag link?

JeepNfish20

JeepNfish20

New member
I'm ordering a new bumper which ships bare steel and wasn't sure how to go about painting it. I was planning on just spraying it with rustoleum hammered black, is there any prep work needed and what not ? Also I was thinking about getting the mango tango matching paint to spray my tie rod and drag link. Any advice on doing this also?
Thanks
 
Speedy_RCW

Speedy_RCW

Hooked
JeepNfish20 said:
I'm ordering a new bumper which ships bare steel and wasn't sure how to go about painting it. I was planning on just spraying it with rustoleum hammered black, is there any prep work needed and what not ? Also I was thinking about getting the mango tango matching paint to spray my tie rod and drag link. Any advice on doing this also?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Personally I'd have the bumper powder coated. If you plan to paint those parts, clean them very good with acetone or the like and hit em with self etching primer before you paint.


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Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
Front or rear bumper? If its a rear I'd just paint it with a good quality brand and like Speedy said, use a self-etching primer. If its a front bumper I'd get it powder coated. Being up front it takes a lot more abuse.

Edit: for the tie rod & drag link use the same primer. I'd hit the finished paint with a good clearcoat after that.
 
S

SullivanM08

Member
20161221_104607.jpg I have painted all my parts myself and it's all about prep! Takes 5 mins to slap on paint. All day to sand or disassemble/reassemble what ever your working on. Use 180 grit sand blocks, wire brushes or scotch Brite purple works pretty good. Wire brush on a Grinder is the fastest tho. Wear gloves and eyes. Finish up with few acetone wipe downs (microfiber+rubber gloves). I then use rustoleum self etch primer green top few coats 3 or so dries super fast(rubber gloves for paint! Lol). I did all my parts in raptor linner so that's where we part seas but it's all the same. Flat black or any rattle can is gonna run on u if u don't create time and distance btw your sprays. I like to hang parts with 550 where ever, even btw trees if u don't have a spray area. Dont really find too much debris messing with paint.
Bedliner is solid if your wondering, been on for 6 months so far no fade/mud stain and great texture! 60psi to 55 psi at full spray. Easy to touch up if chipped.

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Strodinator

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
SullivanM08 said:
View attachment 261958 I have painted all my parts myself and it's all about prep! Takes 5 mins to slap on paint. All day to sand or disassemble/reassemble what ever your working on. Use 180 grit sand blocks, wire brushes or scotch Brite purple works pretty good. Wire brush on a Grinder is the fastest tho. Wear gloves and eyes. Finish up with few acetone wipe downs (microfiber+rubber gloves). I then use rustoleum self etch primer green top few coats 3 or so dries super fast(rubber gloves for paint! Lol). I did all my parts in raptor linner so that's where we part seas but it's all the same. Flat black or any rattle can is gonna run on u if u don't create time and distance btw your sprays. I like to hang parts with 550 where ever, even btw trees if u don't have a spray area. Dont really find too much debris messing with paint.
Bedliner is solid if your wondering, been on for 6 months so far no fade/mud stain and great texture! 60psi to 55 psi at full spray. Easy to touch up if chipped.

Sent from my SM-G920V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Never forget to put in your eyes 🙄, really is a good write up though and using a wire brush on a drill/grinder is a super easy way of efficiently roughing up the surface for paint. Prep is 90 percent of every paint job. If it's poorly prepped it's gonna look bad.
 
zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
I don't know about this self etching primer stuff. I did that to my evo sliders and every time they hit something, it smears off the rust oleum satin black and leaves the white primer showing. I think hitting bare metal with the satin black by itself would stick better. I use satin black for all under the jeep stuff- all suspension, axles, every rusty spot every couple of months. It works great and sticks to anything, no prep needed.

Now for a bumper that is seen out in the daylight, I prefer texture black powder coat, then touch up with rust oleum texture black when needed.
 
JAGS

JAGS

Hooked
I've found sanding and then using automotive primer leaves a better base than the self etching primer.

Then pro-enamel rustoleum or vht roll bar paint. Important thing to note here are curing times. While dry, these paints really don't cure for several days to get best results.
 
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