Drag link flip for 4" is it needed?

I just ordered my 4" kit and I havent settled on a drag link flip just yet. I wanted to get everyones take on it. Is it something that I absolutely need right away or can I hold off a bit? I spent a little more on the lift and some driveline upgrades than I had intended and want to make sure I do this right. Im good holding off on installing it and may not until my PR44 shows up but, like I said, I want to get some opinions on it.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
I just ordered my 4" kit and I havent settled on a drag link flip just yet. I wanted to get everyones take on it. Is it something that I absolutely need right away or can I hold off a bit? I spent a little more on the lift and some driveline upgrades than I had intended and want to make sure I do this right. Im good holding off on installing it and may not until my PR44 shows up but, like I said, I want to get some opinions on it.

If your getting a pr44 wait till you get it as the drag link flip kits are different from the oem 30/44 to a pr44.

As far as needing it I would say it's pretty necessary at that much lift to correct your front end. You will feel it be flighty without it
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
You're going to want it. But like said above, wait until you get the axle. I believe the diameter is bigger, so the bracket will be made to fit the PR44.
 

AZ Explorer

Caught the Bug
The only one I could find that was made for the Prorock was the EVO (bolt on version, there are some weld on available). If there are more, I don't know who makes them. I had already bought the Synergy before I realized it didn't fit (total brain fart). But I'm a decent fabricator and used a grinder to open the arches and now it fits nice and tight. The only thing was I had to give up the clamp. Still debating weld it or suck it up and get the EVO, the problem is I only need the bracket not the whole kit. Hopefully this info is of some help.
 

seansheds

New member
The only one I could find that was made for the Prorock was the EVO (bolt on version, there are some weld on available). If there are more, I don't know who makes them. I had already bought the Synergy before I realized it didn't fit (total brain fart). But I'm a decent fabricator and used a grinder to open the arches and now it fits nice and tight. The only thing was I had to give up the clamp. Still debating weld it or suck it up and get the EVO, the problem is I only need the bracket not the whole kit. Hopefully this info is of some help.

Talk to ORE and ask if they will sell you just the bracket. I got the DL flip from a friend but he was missing the knuckle insert and they sold me just that.
 

PHX JK

Member
I have the Currie Currect Lync steering with flipped drag link and a Synergy Weld On raised track bar bracket.
I Installed the 4in Enforcer and Steering kit first and drove it like that for about 2 weeks, I was a night and day
difference once the track bar angle was flattened out like the flipped Currie Drag Link. The EVO draglink flip
kit is nice but I wanted the heavy Tie Rod and Draglink. The EVO is only half a drag link and a Raised Track
bar bracket but it's less expensive. Also the Currie flipped drag link can be ordered by itself then you can wait
till you get your PR 44 to get a raised Bracket then.

Consider a bolt on raised bracket now and a weld on when you get your PR 44
PHX
 

jeeeep

Hooked
did you order your PR44 with the raised track bar bracket already welded on? the installer installed some aluminum bracket on mine and the thing was breaking at the welds with the hydro assist.

When i spoke to Dynatrac to order one of their brackets, they told me they were using the Synergy 3" weld on tube bracket 8009-01, which is what I'm running with the stock track bar and hydro assist.

Even if you plan to use your stock SS, I'd still get the bracket and save the hassle down the road.

At EJS I noticed Dynatrac does have their own bracket design now but in talking to the reps there, I was informed it's not designed for a hydro assist setup and they'd still recommend the synergy bracket for hydro assist.

you can run pretty much any JK RH drag link and i think you can still use your stock upper half (adjustment tube and pitman end) i may be wrong but i though the thread pattern was still the same.

Currie is the top of the heap for HD but Rancho now has a high-steer RHD as well. There are lots of options on the flip kit now.
 
Thanks to all for the input. I didnt order it with the raised track bar bracket and now Im thinking I should have, but It seems like a fairly easy thing to add on myself once it shows up. I think I have most everythng covered. Im upgrading from a D30 and still need to source spindles and brakes but I most likely will go with their Progrip package.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks to all for the input. I didnt order it with the raised track bar bracket and now Im thinking I should have, but It seems like a fairly easy thing to add on myself once it shows up. I think I have most everythng covered. Im upgrading from a D30 and still need to source spindles and brakes but I most likely will go with their Progrip package.

If it's not too late to have your order modified, I would highly recommend getting the PR44 WITH the raised track bar bracket welded on. Sure you can add something on later but unless you have it burned on, it WILL be a weak point that I have seen break on multiple occasions.
 
If it's not too late to have your order modified, I would highly recommend getting the PR44 WITH the raised track bar bracket welded on. Sure you can add something on later but unless you have it burned on, it WILL be a weak point that I have seen break on multiple occasions.
Nuff said Eddie. I will contact them and see if they can add it on for me. Thanks for the input.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Nuff said Eddie. I will contact them and see if they can add it on for me. Thanks for the input.

In the mean time, IF you're installing your 4" lift now, you will need at the very least an adjustable front track bar to help recenter your axle. The angle of your drag link and track bar will be off enough that a flip and relocation bracket will help improve handling but you can get by without them for now. Granted, once you do install them, an adjustable track bar won't be needed and in a lot of cases, it'll be too long and will cause over correction.
 
In the mean time, IF you're installing your 4" lift now, you will need at the very least an adjustable front track bar to help recenter your axle. The angle of your drag link and track bar will be off enough that a flip and relocation bracket will help improve handling but you can get by without them for now. Granted, once you do install them, an adjustable track bar won't be needed and in a lot of cases, it'll be too long and will cause over correction.

Once again, awesome feedback from Eddie and this group. Super stoked to be a member. I am currently running an adjustable track bar so I've got that covered. Thanks for the heads up on it being too long. Any recommendations on what to swap it out with once I get everything installed and flipped?


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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Once again, awesome feedback from Eddie and this group. Super stoked to be a member. I am currently running an adjustable track bar so I've got that covered. Thanks for the heads up on it being too long. Any recommendations on what to swap it out with once I get everything installed and flipped?


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I run a factory track bar on both Moby and Rubicat. If you don't have one anymore, I would recommend you get the one made by Crown as it's just like the 2007-10 OE track bar and it comes with clevite bushings on both ends. This is better than the 2001-17.
 

AZ Explorer

Caught the Bug
Thanks to all for the input. I didnt order it with the raised track bar bracket and now Im thinking I should have, but It seems like a fairly easy thing to add on myself once it shows up. I think I have most everythng covered. Im upgrading from a D30 and still need to source spindles and brakes but I most likely will go with their Progrip package.

My spindles and brakes etc. all swapped over from the D30. I didn't realize I was going to need the draglink flip when I got my Prorock, if I did I would have done as Eddie said and got it with the raised bracket. May even cost less than adding one later.

Edit: wow, missed a whole conversation while I was typing this up.:)
 
My spindles and brakes etc. all swapped over from the D30. I didn't realize I was going to need the draglink flip when I got my Prorock, if I did I would have done as Eddie said and got it with the raised bracket. May even cost less than adding one later.

Edit: wow, missed a whole conversation while I was typing this up.:)

This is good to know. I didn't know they'd swap over. That will help a ton in getting her back on the road quickly. I'm hoping to slam it al out in a weekend (taking a Friday-Monday weekend) so I'm not out of my DD.


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I run a factory track bar on both Moby and Rubicat. If you don't have one anymore, I would recommend you get the one made by Crown as it's just like the 2007-10 OE track bar and it comes with clevite bushings on both ends. This is better than the 2001-17.

Kick ass. Thanks for the heads up Eddie! I do still have my factory one somewhere...[emoji848]


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aTX427

New member
I run a factory track bar on both Moby and Rubicat. If you don't have one anymore, I would recommend you get the one made by Crown as it's just like the 2007-10 OE track bar and it comes with clevite bushings on both ends. This is better than the 2001-17.

Are you saying the Crown part is better than the OEM because it has clevit bushings on both sides? I know the frame side does, but cannot recall if the stock one has a clevit on the axle side.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Are you saying the Crown part is better than the OEM because it has clevit bushings on both sides? I know the frame side does, but cannot recall if the stock one has a clevit on the axle side.

2007-10 OE track bars came with clevite bushings on both ends. 2011-up, the FRAME side came with a spherical joint with plastic components. While this later track bar works well, I have found them to not last as long as the old design. Fortunately, Crown still makes the old style and it can be had for cheap.
 

JeepJeep75

New member
2007-10 OE track bars came with clevite bushings on both ends. 2011-up, the FRAME side came with a spherical joint with plastic components. While this later track bar works well, I have found them to not last as long as the old design. Fortunately, Crown still makes the old style and it can be had for cheap.

If you had your choice in replacement trackbars, would you get the older one with the clevite-style bushings at both ends? Even for a newer JK?


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